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Decided to go track down one for myself. Garage that is putting the clutch in my WRX let me take theirs home for a couple days. I’m busy scanning it with my phone. It will actually come out pretty good all things considering. Used to use this app for work and manuals there. Is anyone interested in a copy? It’s about 900 or so pages long and is going to be a monster .pdf i should have it mostly done tonight

wish I lived closer!

congrats Toadspit!

Wheel bearing. Bring it down to the shop and we can give you a quote. It is unlikely you want to do this yourself. GD

There is a gas cap adapter. I would use that, turn on the smoke and pull a few of the front lines to let it through the system faster then reconnect those lines when you see smoke come out. give it a couple more minutes then use a really bright flashlight to check all the lines and tank on the vehicle. A dimly lit are works best. Don't do it outside. Any breeze will blow the smoke away before you can see it. If you can't get the adapter, T a line up front and remove the gas cap until you see smoke.

She finally back on the road. I finished everything up yesterday evening. The yard shipped out my parts Monday and by Tuesday they had been d we delivered to my job about an hour after u left but I was too tired to work on it.

Could you post up some pictures of your car? That sounds different from what I have seen for sure.

Buy this - this is a rare cheap alternator - $65 from Subaru, usually they're $300-$500 - https://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/p/Subaru__/ALTERNATOR-ASSEMBLY/49505319/23700AA34ARA.html Don't buy aftermarket garbage no matter how slick "new" "lifetime warrantied" it looks or how easy they are to get. go to subaru and buy it. call them right now and ask them to order it in so it's there on payday. they're super easy to replace - i could probably do it in 5 minutes if i rushed. and I could easily do it with my eyes closed.

^^^ that right there.

a vibration at around those speeds could be a drive shaft universal joint failing. When a needle bearing gets destroyed enough, the shaft gets out of alignment, and at the right speed, resonance makes the amplitude very speed sensitive.

Thanks for the follow up.. The problem was the Air Fuel Ratio sensor. Was a $141 part. Once we replace that its been running good. Mechanic said this sensor was an 'open loop' so the car would mix fuel at a correct default level when it was cold.. when the heat got hot, up above 600 degrees, it would rely on this sensor and that's when I would see it was malfunctioning. Imagine trying to take off in 3rd gear from a red light all the time. That's what the experience was like. This sensor fixed the problem Have a good one

I've had all kinds of problems on vehicles with aftermarket remote start systems installed. Usually as a result of poor connections/installation than the system itself. If you can't use it anyway, I would throw that thing right in the dumpster before anything else. I'm almost completely positive that that car would have an immobilizer, which means that's another computer that can interrupt the starter signal. Most cheap remote start installs on immobilizer cars involve attaching a spare key inside the steering column trim near the ignition to fool the immobilizer. Is this a manual or automatic transmission car? Yea, pretty simple circuit, and it sounds like you have fairly predictable symptoms. Get a multi-meter and/or test light and a wiring diagram, and start isolating components of the circuits.

Jumper out the starter enable relay and see if it stops doing it. If it still does it then you likely need a starter, or the wires/terminals are damaged. This is not a complicated circuit.

12 degrees is a bit to far, and with two other local sources of temperature including one being a similar model Subaru I would then be willing to agree it's probably a bad sensor. Overwhelming preponderance of evidence suggests you have a legitimate complaint.

I figured out exactly what happened, because it happened again. The factory fuel lines have plastic in them, and they were breaking up and plugging the fuel rails and injectors. It also didn't help the gas is half water, so i put some k100 in it, and i am going to let it sit for a bit, then put some no ethanol premium in it as well.

If its anything like my 02 and 2010 you have the thin cover for the body with 4 bolts, then you have to remove the 6 or 8 bolts holding the pump carrier (not really sure what its called) to the tank as well as a few lines. I had to rotate the whole assembly in the hole about half a turn and tip it to clear the fuel level sender. Just take your time and make sure not to bend the arm for the fuel sender or break the plastic. Looking at a couple videos it looks very much the same as the two I changed.

Sounds like the radiator will do it. You don't appear to have random overheating so that's good. But yes - they can fail without consuming coolant in the initial stages for over a year before finally progressing to more symptoms. The few I've seen just have sporadic, random overheating - usually during times of high demand - high ambient temps, A/C on, etc....even to the point they'd had no overheating events for 6 months (all winter) then start back up again small, minor, random overheating events over the summer with no coolant loss over long periods of time.

Would a high quality after market rad be okay, say like a Denso? I see the one from the dealer is like 300.00.