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Screw fell out of distributor rotor.

1. Yes, if you plan to replace the ENTIRE harness, it MIGHT work. 2. You likely will have wiring, sensor and all kinds of other headaches. Have you been doing swaps for years and can do it in your sleep?Although everything should bolt together, the wiring is way different, both ON THE ENGINE, ON THE TRANSMISSION and between the ECU, TCU (trans computer), and DASH harness. 3. Likely won't pass emissions testing. 4. Likely will not run correctly. 5. It's just a bad idea. 6. Main issue is you're 'crossing phases'. '96 is a Phase 1 Subaru electronics; '04 is Phase 2.

In the rust belt - just remove the top strut mount bolt after marking it for alignment, loosen the lower one. No rust issues there. I've done it on a some 2005+ legacy/outbacks but I don't think it worked on the tribeca due to not enough clearance from the stubby shaft that now slides into the trans being apart of the axle. so i guess it's model dependent. But yeah - avoid the pinch bolt at all costs. The lower ball joint bolt might be easier if that's a possibility. Maybe it's model dependent but the swaybar link doesn't need to come off on the few 2005+ I've done.

I replaced the tensioners, guides and chains. ~2k mi and so far so good. (5 hrs at 90 mph cruising since I forgot about the time zone one hour loss on a trip I was making. Thank goodness for 80 mph speed limits). Haven't heard any more chain rattle sounds. After the repair I did an engine flush and dropped the pan and cleaned it out. Some sludge in the low spot around the magnet, but didn't see anything concerning.

Verify diagnosis first. Is it piston slap - gets a little less loud as the engine warms up? Timing tensioner or exhaust leaks get blamed for rod knock. If it’s an EJ25D then EJ22 swap it.

use a Subaru seal, they are directional and therefore right/left dependent. correct, seal replacement is similar labor to axle job, as GD said it's not hard or long, certainly not a "butt load" of work. they're rather easy. get a free FSM online rather than the haynes manual. your front axle job will be identical to any outback since 2005 so you can also google axle job and probably find a video. as much as i hate aftermarket axles, it's unlikely to do damage if it's currently asymptomatic. i've only seen two new aftermarket axles blow to pieces while driving (one on the interstate)...they're trash but not much chance of damage.

They last forever if some wingnut doesn't damage them when changing the axle. Axle swap is about 15 minutes on that car. Seal is going to add about 5 minutes. Axle and seal both fall under the hour minimum at my shop. I will do both front axles for 1.5 hours.

I too, have a 98 Outback, recently changed the ATF. What I did is to drain and fill three times, with short drives between drains. Doing this gives a good drain, as only about half the ATF will not drain from the system. I am happy with the results.

I'll suggest Valvoline MaxLife (Dex III/VI w'ever) for the 4EAT. a lot of the fluid stays in the torque conv. 3 drain and fills with a little driving between gets you over 80% new fluid - there are ways to do a complete swap of course, search for those ideas. If you are having any delayed engagement, a bottle of Trans-X on the last fill really does refresh seals. Sneak up on the hot (operating temp) full line - the marks are only a few ounces apart. Run thru each gear and check while idling of course. The Subaru new OEM ATF-HP may be a little better for you with extreme cold..... not sure. It is a thinner viscosity and a 'must' for the 5EAT in 05s - up. consider using a turkey baster with a short hose and refresh power steering fluid with some new ATF too. name brand GL-5 should be fine for the diffs, synthetic might be best in your harsh climate. You might look for the synthetic 'blend' at WalMart - inexpensive and some folks seem to like it. take the FILL plug out first on the rear diff, that way, you know you can get fluid into it. If you drain, then can't bust the fill loose, can't drive the car! I used my floor jack on the handle of my breaker bar. Those things were TIGHT. I used these items to help with the rear diff and the trans/front diff;

I found it. Here is what GD does in his shop. Read it all, as he mentions what his shop does for all Subaru autos - newer CVTs and older 4/5EATs. Yours is the ubiquitous 4EAT trans almost every Subaru had from 1990-2004.

They popped the spring out of the axle seal or cut the seal when they were removing or installing the axle from the front diff. You are slowly losing gear oil due to a lack of seal lip spring tension. The mechanic that installed the axle owes you a seal. GD

Looks like the gasket to me. Changing the gear oil will break up the gunk at the seals causing leaks. Is this the first oil change in 144,000 miles? That's got to be the problem I'm thinking.

smell it - diff lube is distinctly foul compared to engine oil - you can confirm that by smelling the 2 dipsticks.