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Great. Not surprising it was easy, those bolts dont see enough moisture/road chemicals normally to get that rusty or propagate deeply. Nothing like the Intake manifold bolts are capable of on that engine. The heat from drilling was enough to loosen the minor corrosion. EZ outs are worthless for DIY auto work. If a fastener can come out with an EZ out, it will come out with some other less risky and more advantageous method. EZ outs are excellent tools in highly controlled, precise, and curated machine shop type settings, but they’re trash in a shop that sees real live, on the road, significant corrosion in the middle of a job. EZ outs simply don’t work at all in rust prone areas / you need LH bits and heat.

When you are at home it's easy to use a bottle jack to remove the pressure on the lower through bolt on the Rear Shocks/Struts on a 2000+ Legacy Outback. However, when you are in one of of the UPAP self-serve yards that does not allow jacks in the door, how can you remove the pressure? A couple of weeks ago I pulled a set off a 2007 for another USMB member. I took the following along with my normal tool bag: 10" 4x4 2) 6 " long 2x4 Using those and a few tools from my bag (socket and prybar) I was able to unload the lower bolt enough to slide it out. Basically, just build a little tower under the lower strut to unload the pressure on the through bolt. When the bolt turns with ease, you know you've got it. Pull the nut and drive the bolt out. Then go inside and remove the two 14mm nuts. You can fit a wrench or 1/4" dirve socket in by just pushing the side panel back in a bit.

How many new oil leaks did you find after this? Cheers Bennie

called local dealer they quoted 185 called the dealer in across the river in oregon got it for 78. I think i am going to stop going to the local dealer...

It's been a long time since I had a car with a carb. But the high idle stays on for minutes if you don't touch the gas. Yours may or may not be out of adjustment. But in cold temperatures, minutes of high idle were normal. Like long enough to scrape the ice off most of the windows on a wagon long enough. Those old mechanical systems were not as precise as modern computer controlled engines. Don't expect it to drop on its own until close to normal operating temperature, not just warm to the touch / warmer than the air.

It is supposed to idle high when you "set" the choke by depressing the pedal to the floor once (or a couple times if it's really cold) and release. You should allow it to idle high for a 20 seconds to a minute before touching the throttle. When you blip the throttle with the engine running the engine vacuum can unset the choke (but not always - depends on where it's at in it's travel, etc) and the idle will drop to wherever the fast idle cam on the linkage is currently allowing it to drop to. Once fully up to temp it should have a normal 750 RPM idle speed. These are the ways of carbureted engines. This is normal operation - it is not like fuel injection where you just turn the key and drive. GD

Hey guys, I got my car back. Nothing but a bent up steering column and broken plastic cover. Radio is gone and some other little items. Glad to have it back in one piece.

When the USMB finally dies out completely - people will just have to call my shop and hope I'm available and in the mood to deal with questions. I have mostly stopped answering the phone because of the telemarketing calls. I get enough of the social media from having a "fakebook" page for my shop (and soon instagripe and snapchit as well I'm sure). I can't stand all the advertising on the social media and the huge waste of time it is to see pictures of what other people had for lunch and the general minutia of their daily lives. I DONT CARE. Also the learned helplessness of the masses. Jeezus. It's just a side-show of foolishness and a giant look-at-me contest. There's no value in it for me. I frequent other applicable car forums besides this one - mostly Chevy stuff. There's still some pretty active ones for the old American iron - most of those old codgers wouldn't consider making the switch to social media platforms. GD

Besides upgrading to a weber and the modifications HERE and an upgrade to an LSD (with the required gear change) what are the top ea81 performance mods?