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Thats funny. Given the low price of these cars it doesnt seem that difficult to scratch the itch, although here in the northeast these cars are hard to come by. My bucket list is a Loyale or later GL wagon with push button 4wd and a last gen Brat. Oh and an RX Turbo coupe. Basically all cars I lusted after in high school.

Yes, coolant will drain from there. Drain some coolant from radiator, catching it in a pan. Use Permatex No.2 non-hardening sealant on the threads. There should be a sealing washer on the old one so just clean that & manifold surface well, flip washer over, add sealant & install. If you still have running problems, get a can of contact cleaner, disconnect all sensors & clean the connectors well. I've had trouble with road salt & water causing poor connection on my 87 GL since driving thru PNW. You could be chasing your tail throwing parts at it if there are poor connections. Ask me how I know....

Ok, I'm going to do two things here - 1) warn you and 2) do what I've just told sparkyboy "off" for. So the warning - be careful with the bug! I'm up to 4 subarus now - my beloved L series (the $500 special - see below for further details), my brumby (daily) and two Gen1 RS turbo libertys (legacys, one going, one "being worked on"). My L series is the slightly modified one. First mod was a welded rear diff, then an EJ22, then lift (dropped the welded diff as it got me into plenty of trouble with the EA82), "a few" gearbox mods, snorkel, rear cargo storage area (up to mk2). Anyway, here she is in all her glory after about 14 years of ownership, 10 years with the EJ and 9 years with the lift: And with my brumby (brat) - just after swapping the rims to the Scorpion 5 spokes Lov'em!! The L gets pretty loaded up for offroad when headed out for a weekend or a week! Cheers Bennie

I have had 95's, 97's 2000's & 2005, and have an outback 2014 3.6 and a Impreza 2018's. I liked the 90's cars, but they rode lower and not as well as the next gen for sure. Great vehicles though especially the 2.2 95 engine. The 2000-2004's were tanks. Great cars, my son is still driving my 02 LL Bean. Yeah, window regulators after 04 and interiors don't hold up like the earlier ones , but on the flip side, my 2014 has had oil changes, brakes an tires and I just crossed 60K. My wife's Impreza has 6K on it, so way to early to tell on that unit, but I still think they make a hell of a car. They are all under pressure to reduce weight and increase MPG and shorts cuts get taken by all of the car makers. In comparison, My Honda Odyssey at the office has had issues with the variable cylinder management and just under warranty had to have the rings and a piston replaced at 60k. They upgraded the computer firmware so it would kick in so much and foul the plugs. My KIA minivan at the office was decent but could not handle the Midwest ice and salt and started disintegrating around me. At 114K, it had to go. My neighbors corolla 2005 with 110k loves to burn oil and she is due for an engine replacement. Not to be a punch drinker, but I think you get my point.

Brat hasn't changed much. Did the rear bearings not too long ago. I think about every bushing/bearing/moving part has been replaced on the car by now. Also got a datsun 720 transfer case from a board member but I don't think i'll be going that direction. I enjoy driving fast and a huge lifted subaru isn't really my thing. I like how i'm still able to take corners fast and have a low center of gravity. I was planning on getting a toyota pickup soon, but I think it's time to get serious about the brat and start dumping money into it. Here are my plans for now: Gut frame rails weld it solid with square tubing. Plate the unibody For the rear: King 2.0 or Fox 2.0 coilover shocks for the rear Hydraulic bump stops For the front: Fit EJ knuckles. I heard this can be done with reaming out the control arm ball joint holes. Hot bit coilovers My main goal for the brat is to be able to jump it and go through whoops comfortably.

Thanks for the note, yes, I'm sure it is all from a 1993 AT car, as I bought the whole (barely) running car and salvaged what I needed. the almost new IAC was not dirty, and moved freely. Did not test resistance. Yes it's all tight. THE ONE THING about the IAC- it has coolant lines in and out. Simple, right? Well, Subaru no longer makes the tight little coolant elbow that goes between the IAC and the throttle body. Mine had a piece of straight hose which had become kinked... Should have used a longer piece and looped. Better solution: I found a Gates elbow in 5/16" that worked great once both ends were shortened appropriately. This part is considered a heater hose. Suspect this was what was throwing off the IAC outputs and causing codes. So, the takeaways: 1) Fault codes must be hooked up and functioning for easy (er) diagnosis. 2) A functioning multimeter is also essential. 3) Aftermarket Manuals seem spotty at best, so beware. If unsure, ask the bros on US.org 4) Out of all who "guessed" at the problem The mechanic was right (it was also on FergLoyal's shortlist). He reminded me of this. I reminded him that guessing was still for fools! Lessons learned. Thanks everyone for your help! N.L.

Oh - so you had a skip and not a crash? Then my $.25 is to spend a few bucks on it. I jam econo too, so I just replaced the belt and the toothed idler (which, for some reason has a much higher failure rate than the smooth ones), but went premium on both (per GD's recommendation): Mitsuboshi belt and NSK idler - I think I paid less than $100 CDN for the pair. Unless you have a reason to distrust the pumps and tensioner, that should do it.

Replace the PCV valve. And stop using 20 weight. Run 5w40 synthetic. GD

Awesome man! Haha plieades hooks another one, those seven sisters sure have a way about them! I think the solar radiation from that constellation scrambles the brainwaves slightly or something lol! Are you going to check out a loyale sedan or wagon? Good luck man and i hope she's as tasty as your 86! Best thing about these cars is that the parts to keep them going just about grow on trees in the form of the ej engine. @el_freddo I know my friend, anyone who spends about 5 minutes in the old gen forums will certainly get plenty of looks at my piles lol! Hopefully an eye full and not an eye sore! I can't help it sometimes but these little.boxes are simply too cool and i love it when someone just starts to dig them...it was here where I first became aware of the ej swap! Cheers boys

Haha guys Im looking at a 5 speed 4wd Loyale this weekend. Boy the bug has hit me! This and a Brat are on my bucket list!

I’ve heard of some Aussie members modifying the all plastic VT commodore unit to do the job in the brumby. Unfortunatley I don’t have pics, nor have I seen any of this mod. Cheers Bennie

Installed a UHF 6.5dB antenna on my Brumby's rollbar. Made a bracket from ally flatbar Mounted the antenna Pushed a coat hanger wire through to the cab and taped the lead to it. Used a rubber grommet to make it waterproof. Looks like this when installed. Cable run. Finished. Cheers, Knucklehead.

Here is picture of it

Just pulled my engine out of my loyale, pretty proud my very first engine pull

Well, I finally took the plunge after limping my 13" maypop baldies with belts showing along as long as I could, till one did pop. Just didn't want to buy any more 13s. So after many hours of reading about 6-lug swaps here, I decided that would be the cheapest, easiest route. The problem with most of the threads here is they are all about off-roading with lifted cars. There was very, very, little I could find about doing this swap on a stock height car with low-profile tires. What little there was had no pictures anymore because of photosucket. So I took a trip to the only pick-n-pull in the area. Really, a terrible yard, with absolutely no organization whatsoever. You have to go over the whole yard usually, just to start and see what's available. And many of the cars are so packed together, you can't even walk between them. I found one set of 15" steel Isusu 6-lugs in the offset I figured I would need. 60 bucks for the set... pretty happy about that. And they were actually going to charge me extra for the mixmatched, flat, half-bald tires that were on there (??) but they removed them for free. Now, these wheels are well made, but HEAVY!! The center flange that I had to drill was 3/8" steel and the rest of the center was a healthy 1/4". I was gonna weigh them before I got them on the car, but I was too excited to stop and do so. Really, part of me just didn't want to know. I was gonna hit up someone here to send me a front hub, maybe one with stripped splines, to use as a template, but I ended up just taking one of mine off, and bopping two of the studs out. I then made a drill bushing with a nut by first drilling out the threads with my pilot drill bit, and then, with the nut spinning on the pilot bit, I dressed down the OD with a right-angle grinder (shadetree lathe), till it just pushed inside the stud holes. Bolted the hub to the wheels, drilled the pilot through the bushing, then drilled to 1/2", Bob's your uncle. After hours of brooding over tire size, I finally settled on 205/50R15s, which are ever so slightly taller than stock, and filled out beautifully on the 7 inch rims. Wallyworld got me Hankooks for 50 bucks each, and they really look like great tires. Took hardly any weight to balance, which is a good sign for the rims and tires. Fit without issue on the front, but it gets close in a couple of spots. The rear... was going to rub the inner fender lip under compression. I've never rolled any fenders, but I remember an old hot rodder telling me about using a baseball bat to do so. I couldn't find a full-size wooden bat anywhere locally, but I did have a piece of 2" PVC electrical conduit. Started out driving the car forward with the conduit rolling between the tire and body. With a stick and a string on the loose end of the conduit, so I could guide it (would work better with 2 people). Then finished by letting the car roll back down the driveway while levering the conduit down to push the flange up. Worked great. Then, after some cleaning and Krylon, I can't stop looking at it!! Now, I have yet to try and drill a chamfer on the new holes so it will accept a traditional lug nut. For now, I just have regular nuts and lockwashers on the drilled holes, and center the wheels on the car with the factory holes. It's smooth as glass at 80 mph, so I think I can go back now and chamfer the drilled holes, as long as they are perfectly centered around the stud. Or, I could just get some flat-bottom chrome acorn nuts, and leave well enough alone.