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And way too tall and heavy to fit in the loyale. MAYBE if you used an entire Nissan front suspension. Maybe. Will NOT fit in the loyale with it's stock crossmember/suspension. Doesn't matter because obvious by the Redneckeery goin on in this thread, you will never swap in anything. Great job F-in up a car that's lasted in really nice condition for years. EGR lowers cyl temperatures. If you understood it, you'd have known it wasn't necessary to weld the intake side of that pipe if you've blocked off the port with the beer can. PCV removes corrosive gasses from the engine oil Hillholders are awesome. Only annoying to those who can't figure out how to use them. Coolant Temp sensor is possibly one of the MOST important sensor to making the car run right. You left the D-check connectors, but cut out the white, U-check connector that ACTUALLY IS THE PAIR THAT OUTPUTS STORED CODES!!! And now you won't be able to use the "clear memory" either. That requires BOTH sets of connectors. The 4wd transfer cannot handle 90hp in RWD for long, let alone 200hp. Guaranty you break it within 3 months. Especially if yer trying to "drift" That car will not start in the winter. It will probably be ruined by then anyhow. Oh wait, never mind, it's already ruined. But it's yer car so "tweek" on it all you want.

Picked up these two very unusual models at a local antique show. They are made of a soft wood and appear to have been made around the same time that these vehicles were new. They seem to be professionally made rather than by a Subaru fan with mad woodworking/modeling skills. They are about 20" long 7" tall and 6" wide. Could they be a corporate thing, used for promotional or advertising? Or a dealer thing? They are really cool but have been banged up over the years. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Oh pish tosh boys! What we need here is aa couple pizzas and a case of pbr! When you build something you wanna youre bound to offend some peoples sensibilities! When i told people id be slamming my 85xt i got a "jesus no!" But people have installed small block chevys in these things and kept 4wd! Build her how ya wanna. There are areas in co where emissions are not required for registration. You should see the nonsense that goes on there! Im talking full race setups here. Diesels pollute a lot more than pcv to atmosphere. Btw fellas, i delete all my egr and pcv crap too but im too lazy to route anything, i use press on filters like on the chevys works fine and clean with brake cleaner. I keep my engine bays clean af to eat off. Hot chicks love that. @MonkeyWrencher dodges and subarus eh? You seem like my kinda guy. I was raised to love chevys and boulder, co made me a "subaru hippie guru" (someones compliment seeing my ej swap) I love chevy, subaru and bmw in that order, but dig all pre 90s. Noone made a prettier two door compact than the chevette, including gorgeous subarus. And we can debate in a seperate thread if anyone disagrees! Cheers boys! ^ My 77 camaro and 86 gl w/ej22. Cammy and the baby lion. ^ 85 xt ghost. ^ what you boys know about this? My ej22 gl in 4hi will murder a 325ix in the snow i wonder how this is? 325ix is a beast in the snow btw.

And way worse for the engine too! You're engine bay is gonna be an oily nasty mess really quickly.

The 4 speeds are known to have shift fork and syncro problems with 3rd gear. Subaru issued service bulletins and repair kits with updated fork part numbers, etc for this condition. None of which can now be purchased. It isn't a clutch issue (which would show up in all gears, but especially first and reverse) so don't waste your money. GD

You absolutely need a subframe drop if you want to stop ripping boots. my loyale with a 2” adf lift would blow axles all the time until i dropped the subframe

You'll also need to do something with the stock radiator hoses and radiator outlet i believe. The bottom outlet will need to be put into an upwards angle and the hoses of the EJ are a larger ID then the hoses off the EA so you can either use adapters or change the radiator outlets all together. I might be wrong though I've read a ton and asked a ton on the swap because I'm starting mine in about a month and this is the information I've gotten.

Yeah, it just strikes me that if there were a problem with the clutch work, it would have shown up a lot sooner than 30K miles. I'm always extremely suspicious of "coincidental" failures - if you have two problems at the same time they're probably related. But that's an awful lot of time and distance for the two to be related problems; more likely "unfortunately neighboring".

It's not "unnecessary", because even though the system is small air and moisture in the system does lower the cooling efficiency, but the difference is small enough that it usually doesn't matter. The drier can usually remove enough water from the system to cancel any effects it may have. Air in the system raises the system pressure and decreases its ability to cool. Removing the air by vacuuming or purging the system returns it to its optimal efficiency, but the difference is small enough with most systems that most people will probably never notice. Too much moisture in a system can cause icing to occur on the expansion valve or orifice tube and cause it to stick or totally freeze over and become blocked. This generally only happens if the desiccant in the drier has been exposed to high humidity atmosphere for a long period and has become saturated. On a system that has been open for a long time, the drier should be replaced, even if you have the system vacuumed. Last one I bought was $15 on rockauto. Might not be that cheap for every subaru, but in general they don't cost very much.

Oil the :madder: out of the bolts before your attempt to crank them. Work the bolts back and forth before reseting your wrench and oil it again! Repete last step 500 times! In the rear, if you can see threads it is lowered. If you can just see the head of the bolt it's up!

for the rear adjustment on the Brat, you have to do it from underneath. no easy access plug like the hatch and wagon.....

It's called a Lift Kit (it's adjustable from 3" to 12" so far) Just kidding....... Do you have an owners manuel? It is covered in there.... It may be in the reference manuel on this site.:cornfuzz: If not you have two bolts at the base of your front struts springs. Crank these to compress the spring and it will lift your front. This is good for an inch, (if you can see an inch of space under your spring it's already been cranked up). You should have a rubber plug in you bed somewhere this should give you easy access to your rear adjustment nut. It's in the center of your trailing arm suspension bar. It's a 19mm and cranking this will torque your rear spring. This may also be done by a previous owner. Good luck! Glenn, 82 Hatch, transforming....:temper: 01 Forester, jealous........:madder: