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While you’ve got the trans out, shove a new rear main seal on the back of the engine And replace the oil/air separator plate if it’s plastic. Cheers Bennie

it's a DL! no trim panels on pillars, rubber glass seal rather than glued in. A better match for a Loyale actually than the GL or GL-10 wagon hatch. It may be nessecary to swap the wiring loom over from teh GL to retain power locks. But the wire may be in the loom already and just need the actual solenoid swapped in and plugged in.

i had an experience similar to this once.. got on it to get through a traffic light that was changing... engine died.. coast to a reasonably safe spot to stop (thankfully it was a downhill run, as places to stop are few & far between at that location).. Mine did not restart however.. had to be trailered home and the timing redone. definitely check your timing belt. it can be off a tooth or two and still run

Good news that it was running so recently. It does appear that the carb may be empty because of a stuck float. First thing to try is tapping the float bowl with a soft hammer type device preferably with the fuel pump running. That almost always works.It might stick again though. You may have to take the top off to see what is going on if that does not work.Nothing to lose. You don`t have to have a new gasket from a carb kit.I didn`t have one. As long as the old gasket does not break at a strategic location,it is reusable. Worst case,you would need to make a gasket w/some punches and a xacto knife. The carter weber gasket looks simple enough,I`ve made more intricate ones. Base gaskets are a piece of cake.

Hi, '92-'94 Legacy were 3.90 FD ratio. That's the most important part. However, if you replace the rear diff you can use any '90-'91 '95-'98 2.2 or 2.5 Legacy , Impreza, or Forester Auto transmission. .. >>Caveats: you'll need to change the pinion flange on the diff to match yours....different bolt spacing. >>>Flex plate needs to match up, too. The 'seating' of the Torque Converter is also very important - search on here, and there are are a couple of seals on input/output (?) shafts to replace. Also, if buying one from a used parts yard, it may have been sitting on the shelf - for a long time and the internal seals may leak once installed- and the shop may not warranty that.

I see what the badge says, but that actually looks like a Loyale hatch. No plastic on the side pillars, and the gasket/trim around the windows is different than a GL. (I think I read on here somewhere that the glass mounts differently from GL to Loyale, but you will want to confirm.) On a completely self serving note, is that blue- and are the fenders there? Dan