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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/20 in all areas

  1. That’s great, it’s gen 2 part numbers I’m looking for. Now, the hunt is on to see if I can find any. Moosens, thanks very much for your time, it’s much appreciated.
  2. I've been driving the brat as a daily the past two weeks because my other car broke and I've been waiting on parts to fix it. So in the mean time I've made some upgrades to the rear of the brat this week....suspension and a bumper. I used EMPI 9571 coilovers meant for vw baja beetles with torsion bar front suspension as a helper spring for the torsion bars. The stroke is 5" and the extended and compressed lengths are almost exactly the same as stock. Bolted right in other than having to press out the sleeve the coilover bushings came with and very minimal cutting. I cut a little off the bump stop tab on the control arm and ground a little off the bump stop to get the spring to clear on full droop. I also made a rear bumper with a hitch and swingout spare tire carrier so i can keep my spare out of the way and use a hitch mount bike rack or other things. Empi 9571 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Bushing sleeve brat coilover by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Coil by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Coil clearance on gound by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr lil rear lift by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Bumper finsihed by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr hinge by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Swung by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr I've also done some camping and doing some shakedown testing to get a feel for what else it needs in the suspension and steering to drive a little nicer off road, Im thinking trying to get a little stiffer front spring or finding another solution to getting better front suspension and steering. Brat PR4 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Brat PR3 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr old grade back by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr old grade front by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr uphill brat old grade by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr downhill old grade by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr lakeside swing brat by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr lakeside bumper brat by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr
  3. The shoulder of the spring bolt should be up against the flange. The spring hold tension on the connection.
  4. Thanks again ! Late model - phooey !!!
  5. Oh right. I’ve pointed them away from me and zipped the nut off with air tools before.
  6. You don't need a spring compressor for rear springs. Just have a friend push down on the top hat and start the nut. Rears don't have really strong springs. And yeah quick struts are typically garbage. If you can't do it then just pay a reputable shop. Primitive racing sells King raised height springs. We use them quite often to combat rear sag. Call them and get a recommendation and a quote. GD
  7. Yes sagging is springs. A spacer could compensate and is easy for anyone to install. or buy those ones you’re looking into and have at it.
  8. Not sure if posted here before.... but bought of an American (who might be a member) in NZ.
  9. The major component that needs to come off is the arm rest. Then remove the little screw that holds the plastic trim inside the door handle and lock, this has little clasps top and bottom holding it to the handle so it may take a small screwdriver to get it out. Then from the bottom corners, give the panel a quick sharp pull. This will pull the plastic pins out of the door, these are all around the bottom and half way up the sides. Once you get it loose, you need to pull the bottom out and lift up to get the rubber trim on top out of the door.
  10. why would you want to purchase inferior products like that link?

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