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I made a tool from a spare pulley, M6 bolts poke through into same holes on fitted pulley, 17 mm nut and bolt tight up on centre hole.

We use a pressurized tank of oil and an adapter custom made for the oil pump discharge port to fill the engine with oil at 90 psi. We put all 5 quarts in them this way. We hand crank them while they are filling. You can try cranking it with the crankshaft sensor disconnected, but unless the oil pump is packed with assembly lube it probably wont prime. You would likely be fine to just start it and observe the oil pressure light. But we don't take that risk on the high dollar engines we build. GD

I could scan a page or 2. Can you give me an idea of what you are looking for?

strap wrench makes it super easy to turn cam. Bolts strip more than shear in my experience. Rust may cause variance. I use the bolts sometimes but I’ve done it enough to get away with it now. Don’t do it. use one of the old belts as a wrap and go from there. It can be done by hand with the old belt or vice grips squeezed around the sprocket.

I'd have to look up the torque, but yeah, it's around 10. And they are not grade 8 bolts even.

You can take an old belt, wrap it around the pulley, then pinch it with some vice grips. Basically use the old belt as a strap wrench.

The service position on the hood makes it vertical and gets the hood stay out of your way. If you look on the hood there is the slot with the arrow, that is the normal spot. To the right of it is a second slot. Now look on the strut tower, there is a hole next to the bolt for the tire holder bar. If you remove the hood stay from the radiator support, you can put the bottom in the hole by the strut stop, and the top in the second hole in the hood. Now the hood will be vertical, and the hood and stay will be out of your way will working on the engine.

Do NOT try to turn a cam with the pulley mounting bolt, it will snap. Get a short bar of aluminum or steel. 8" - 12" long. Drill 20 holes in it, that line up with 2 of the holes in the edge of the pulley. 1/4" bolts through the holes, poke into the holes on the pulley, and you can easily turn the cam. When the cam is in the belt install 0posuition, the valve springs will not be interfering with setting the position.

I have always put the car in 5th, locked the e brake, and use a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Takes a pipe some times. Do you know about the service position for the hood stay? With the cams you are opening the valves. It will snap forward once you get them open all the way.

Points seem to be fine. No gunk or debris. Things look kinda shiny.

Sylvania Silverstar is my bulb of choice in my Subarus. Wagner for my Ford.

I use Philips VisionPlus bulbs. They're a direct replacement and are brighter and whiter than stock. I also use them in the high beams.

About only time dizzy needs readjust is if it has had adjustment to make up the tune due to slack or stretched timing belts

as I understand it, you VIN can be entered and any/all extended warranties will show-up. Supposedly, our 03 Outback has lifetime coverage on the seatbelts.

Nothing will bolt up with some work from a wrx. You can do knuckles and struts, but I don't think the wrx has the right inners. The EA won't have the right outers. Also nothing on the rear will work. Also the EJ swap is a better idea than rebuilding the EA.

I've done timing belts loads of times. Never once had to re position the distributor. Line up the marks, put belts on, as described previously.

About that vintage, there was a considerable warranty extension on those low beam bulbs. Give your local dealer a call, if it's the ones I'm thinking of, they'll do it for free.

The low beam takes an H7 or 12555H7 bulb. Try to find one with LL on the end of the part number. H7LL. The LL stands for Longer Life. If the bulb socket connectors look black, replace it. RockAuto has both, bulb and socket. I had to replace the sockets on our 95 RHD. In 473k miles I've only replaced the bulbs twice. Delivering Mail the lights are on all day. I would check the alternator output when running. If it is more than 14 volts the light bulbs don't last very long. The best voltage is 13.8v but some run at 14.2v. The bulbs are rated 12v at 55 watts.

If you're blowing bulbs with frequency, you might want to look at the headlamp plugs and see if they have thermal damage.

what type bulb is it? there's very little you can do without some annoying trade-off. Brighter bulbs have a shorter life span. Conversions to HID are pricey/'iffy' .

You could be right about the tensioner(s). If that's it, I'll get it cleaned up, that's for sure. I'll be using the whole kit. Engine swaps would be great, but I just don't have the room or help to get it done. Sounds cool, though I'm ok with trying the open belts, but I wonder about road debris like rocks or whatever. Also, I will be doing this with the engine in the car. I assume I can do the cam seals in the car, which necessitates taking off the cam pulleys, which would let me take off the whole shebang of covers. I've watched the Miles Fox vids- over and over! Good stuff.. Good tips. I'll try to work the belts on with as little movement as possible. I actually saw the marks first when I rotated the engine a little CCW when trying to get the crank pulley bolt out. I then rotated it CW and found the ignition and cam timing marks. I appreciate the tips! Looks like along with guys from the US, a few Australians and a member from England are still running the old Subarus, which is pretty cool.

Piston slap isn't a thing on 2009's. GD

Never get into a situation where you are returning a vehicle you have bought to a used car dealer for "repair". Even if they "fix" it, they will do the absolute cheapest job possible since every dime they spend on the repair is lost profit. The worst thing you can have is a botched head gasket replacement - that's worse than just letting them leak and dealing with the smell, etc. We have seen them blow out and overheat, we have seen them strip the heads on the block, use the wrong parts, put the head bolts in the wrong holes, etc, etc. It's a bad situation to be in. Sounds like they did a crap job with crap parts. GD