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If I recall the specified head gasket for that MY is a 11044AA633 that is a Non-MLS gasket (bad choice) Normally aspirated MLS gasket for that MY is 11044AA642 Turbo charged engine MLS Gasket is 11044AA770 Many use the turbo gasket (770) instead of the 642 for normally aspirated (non turbo charged) engines.

You may also have to swap the Crankshaft gear and Drivers side Cam Gear from the Forester, if they have different timing triggers

On initial coolant leaks of original factory gaskets, Subaru coolant conditioner works nearly 100% of the time. Change the coolant and add a bottle of conditioner. this isn’t a good option If it has unknown or various coolant issues. It should only be used if everything else in the cooking system is known good. Repair is obviously the best option and what purests would recommend. And I generally aboud additives but this is one case where they work and are a great fit in many instances.

We just use 10's on everything unless it's a special build or a dual AVCS engine, then we use 11's. GD

if that car has a 7mm oil pump, consider installing a 9mm.

If the O2 sensor signal is not received at ECU the default is to go rich to protect leanout damage. If that is any help? I run an O2 reader led bar graph in the dash to see all the time ( and I don't even have an ecu !)

It's a HG leak for sure - only an external one though. You can monitor the leaks and keep up the fluid levels or you can replace the HGs with later model ones - 11044AA770 General Disorder, GLoyale and Mike104 will be able to confirm this. Do not replace the HGs with factory standard units (like I did) - they will leak again! Like mine have... Cheers Bennie

2003 has a cable from the pedal to the throttle body, not 'drive by wire'.

electric impact would be a great addition to your 'kit' even if you only used it for buzzing off wheels. I regret waiting 30 years to own an impact. That said, it's no good for assembling anything - use a torque wrench when appropriate. Best approach for struts, gather your new parts, take the assemblies and new parts to a shop, pay them them do the swap. If you want to do the whole process, the impact will help a LOT with the spring compressors. Doing struts is what prompted me to buy mine. Yes, doable with hand tools, especially so if you aren't fighting rust. It just takes more effort and patience. I had to kinda 'rig' a 6mm wrench to fit through a socket held by vice grips to torque the top of the strut. Also, consider new strut mounts - at least remove them and spin on your finger - the bearings in the mounts on my WRX were bad at only 65K miles or so - but 10 years old. Be careful with the little studs on the mounts, very low torque.

my first Subaru was an 89 GL wagon (basically the same as the Loyale), 5spd, FWD - I paid all of $150 for that car (it needed a clutch and a few other items) and I drove it for 8 years! She had 150K miles when I got her, and was pushing 285K miles when she was finally permanently retired due to serious rust issues - motor still started first time, every time, and ran strong. It was because of that car that I found this group - way back in 2001, and they have helped me many times over the years to keep my Subarus going. I try to pay that back by helping others where I can. So yeah, this is kind of like a family. =)

Just picked this up about a week ago. Very little rust, though that's not too surprising in this area. Bought new in Utah by the original owner, and I picked it up in trade. Runs amazing for a high mileage car. No knocks, no shakes, no smoke, no leaks! Interior has a couple rough spots, rip along the seam in the drivers seat, and a cut in the headliner adjacent to the sunroof motor. Sunroof switch didn't work so I assume it's for direct access to the wiring to make it work. Currently undergoing an entertainment system upgrade, adding navigation, cellular and internet access onboard with touchscreen in the dash. Planned upgrades include lift, some power mods while remaining NA, and a few lighting and cargo capacity upgrades for off road adventures.