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Who knew you could fit a mini-machine shop inside the drum!?!?

No. Long discontinued.... thankfully. GD

well there's your problem

The hose goes from the throttle body to the crossover pipe. It acts as a return line that goes from the bypass pipe to the TB. Its designed to keep the throttle body from icing up. Some people in hot climates just bypass or plug them as icing is not a concern for them. It will show up in service procedure for the TB. Use an online dealer part cat. to look up the actual part no. if you need it. The dealer should be able to get it w/o a number. Its on all the EJ22 and EJ25's at least up to 06. O.

Mine was done by a Subie tech and they did not remove the engine. The 15-17 range seems reasonable. As mentioned your vintage leaks oil. As long as you watch your fluids, you might want to wait for the timing belt change interval (105K miles) as they will be halfway into the engine at that point.

Why do you need a knuckle? Is it cracked or warped? Your talking about a 20 year old part that takes a beating every time the car is driven. A used knuckle should cost $70 shipped off ebay. Expect to rebuild the entire knuckle. Bearing/seals/ball joint/hub. The additional new parts will cost another $70. Rebuild of the knuckle is one hour shop time.

Make sure you open your passenger window at least halfway first, one of the screws in the "triangle shaped" bracket are hidden under where the window blocks if the window is up all the way. Once you take the door panel off you wont be able to control your windows, so do it before you disconnect everything. **TIP FOR OTHERS** LOL, do not try to open the mirror itself, it is factory sealed and the only way to "open" it is to break a couple of plastic tabs which can not be replaced without buying a new mirror. I had to use JB weld to get mine back to good working order again.

It's just inexperience. We do this (fill Subaru cooling systems) about 3-5 times a day at my shop and this never really happens. 1. Do use a fill funnel that raises the level above the filler neck. 2. On a cross-flow system (yours), remove the bleeder screw and fill till it pours out this port then plug it. At that point the system is pretty much full. 3. Run the engine and once the oil has warmed (about 10 minutes), rev the engine repeatedly to 5k RPM. 4. Continue revving the engine and also massage the upper hose to clear air pockets. 5. When you feel the left radiator tank get hot it is starting to flow. Once both hoses are hot keep running it till the fans cycle on and then back off. 6. Cap the system and fill the overflow to about 1-2" above the full mark. That's really all there is to it and you don't need ramps or any special equipment. This is not difficult at all. Just takes patience. GD

Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, I use those on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since many years ago My advice is: ► Choose a Grease intended for C.V. Joints, not a cheap, soapy universal grease. Rubber Boots: I Suggest you to use Always the Subaru Original Rubber Boots. Even Using Cheap C.V. Joints... ...Because other Brands Doesn't last very much. Subaru designed one Short Boot to be Used at the Wheel's Side (outer Boot), and one Long Boot to be Used on the Gearbox Side (inner Boot), the Difference could be Seen in this Drawing: Since both Boots does have the Same opening Measurements, their only difference is that one is Longer than the other, it does Not make any Sense to Use the Short Boot; Specially considering that the Wheel side does Much more Effort due to the Steering Turns that Stretch 'em many many times per trip. My advice is: ► Use the Longer Rubber Boot at Both ends. Because the inner Boot (Longer) Works Perfectly in the Place of the Outer Boot (Shorter). Being Longer aids the Boot to Handle Better the Continous Stretchings from the Steering Turns; so it Will Last Very Longer than the Short one, holding there the Grease, and the longer boot helps to elongate the C.V. Joints' Lifespan on Lifted rigs, because it compensates the increased angle of the axles. Also I've Found that a Simple Driving Behaviour can Make C.V. Joints to Last much more longer: To Relief Pressure from C.V. Joints while doing U-Turns; let me Explain: C.V. Joints works as you can see on the Followin' Animation: So, when you do a U-Turn, the Balls goes from one Side to Another very very Fast; if Acceleration is Forced (in Example while Accelerating the Engine) the Balls will go Faster and harder with the Extra Pressure and shearing against the walls, and that will Worn them and their Holding Basket very Fast, also their C.V. Joint's base. ► My Advice is: Do the U-Turns Just with vehicle's Impluse. Give to the Vehicle enough Speed and leave the gas pedal while doing the U-Turn, also you could Place the Shifter in Neutral Gear (or Press the Clutch Pedal to the Bottom) in manual transmission vehicles; only while the Car is Turning, that Releases the pressure from the C.V. Balls ... ...it makes Miracles in C.V. Joint's Life! One last thing that might Help, is the Use Good Quality Zip Ties, instead the Metallics with Razor's Edge that could Cut the Boot; I'm Using those in many cars since 1999 with Great Results! ... Even in my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can See in this Photo below: They'll Stay right there if Properly adjusted and be Sure to obtain the Best Quality that you can buy, not the toughest ones because those are too hard for the application. Two Things are the Most important in C.V. Joints' life: ► Grease: If a Boot Fails, you must Hurry up to Change it along with new, fresh Grease, as soon as possible, so Weekly (or Sooner) inspections to the Boots are Highly recommended. ► Driving Behaviour: if you Usually Force the C.V. Joints, (i.e: like Burning Tires in U-Turns) they'll Break soon. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.

Bought a 91 legacy for $50. Had a grinding noise and owner suspected the rear diff was shot. I didn't dispute him on it. After removing badly rusted brakes, I found this. Just had to share! To good to keep to myself.

Another pic of the damage