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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/01/20 in all areas

  1. That depends on how you look after them. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  2. Yep and they were literally a dollar on rock auto when I got mine.
    1 point
  3. @andrsn Gen1 and Gen2 have only one O2 sensor. It’s located between the two exhaust pipes coming into the cat converter. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  4. ATF does not do the front diff. There’s a separate dipstick for the diff and it uses regular diff oil. If you have an issue there it’s usually a speed related noise. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  5. Back ground Got it to be a daily drive I drove it for about a month then my friend tired to put a radio in he didn’t discount the batter and shocked him self. After this it didn’t start no spark I checked fusible links, relays, fuses, new spark plug, new distributor cap does spin when cranking, new coil, new coil bracket made sure it’s wired right, spark plug wires are good
    1 point
  6. if it was mine i would do a mild port on it and see if that crack would buff out that casting looks nasty
    1 point
  7. Old Subaru's just aren't well supported with parts. Doubt that will change, and a 20 year old Forester is in the edge of being unsustainable also. Won't be long - 10 years or so - and parts will be basically unobtainable on the first gen Foresters also. Anything "new" like the Crosstrek or the upcoming Bronco are all in the 2005+ era of CANBUS module h*ll. Wherein the vehicle has between a dozen, and five dozen "modules" that exist on a serial CANBUS network. If any of those modules fail (lets say your "heated/cooled cup holder module" or your "ambient scent HVAC misting module") then it wreck's the CANBUS network termination or worse if the module goes nuts and pollutes the network with traffic that conflicts with important network packages, then the results will be unpredictable - anything from super-heating your iced coffee to a complete lock-out of the security immobilization system, etc. If you go "adventuring" in the back country where you may encounter conditions that are non-optimal for electronics..... you see where this is going. If you wouldn't throw your iPhone in a mud puddle then you likewise shouldn't throw your CANBUS networked vehicle in one either. As much as they are gussied up and appear to be "tough" I can assure you that none of the electronics in the carpeted, leather wrapped, climate controlled interior are in ANY WAY water proof or even resistant. Just look at what happens to cars that have been in floods. The farther back you go, the simpler the electrical systems are. My 84 GMC is a carbed 350 Vortec. It only needs +12v to the coil, and another +12v to operate the starter. In addition, the aftermarket support for the 73 to 87 square body GM's is exceptionally good. They are on the rise in value and NOW is the time to buy while prices are still reasonable. Not only can you get ANY part, you can get MOST critical drivetrain parts at ANY parts store and chances are it's in stock too. These are the qualifications that matter for an adventure vehicle. At least IMO. I've been stuck in the woods with broken vehicles. I've laid in the mud and gravel and filth fixing broken drivetrains. The less this happens the happier I am. The "amenities" that will fail on you and take out half the rest of the electrical system aren't worth the trouble. They will, however, ensure that the vehicle is obsolete in a timely manner for the manufacturer to sell you a new one. Also - to the OP and anyone else reading - if you can't/won't fix your vehicle when it breaks off road just stay home. Us that can don't want to fix your stupid mistakes and lack of preparedness. GD
    1 point
  8. www.car-part.com Find one in a rust free area of the US and have them send it to you.
    1 point
  9. They were thinking they needed to alert you that the oil level was 2 quarts low. Which they did. Mission accomplished. GD
    1 point
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