edrach

Vibration while accelerating which goes away immediately when you lift off the gas and coast is almost always a sign of a bad DOJ (inner joint) of the axle. I'm not familiar with it producing a tapping noise.

A while back I lent the special tool for pulling the axle back through the hub to someone local. I'm thinking of doing some axle work on the Brat and it would be nice to have it back. So will the person who has it be kind enough to bring it back. Thanks.

If it's AWD yes it is; I was thinking of the 4WD cars when I did this since I went through this with my old GL wagon. Not sure how well this works with AWD since there's more mass involved with spinning the wheel.

Come April 1st, it's a $400 fine if caught.

Check the castle nut for tightness; not uncommon for them to loosen up and cause the rumble; quick and easy check to do.

An easy way is to jack up the front end with the car in neutral and the handbrake off. Put your hand on the spring in the strut and spin the tire by hand. You'll feel the vibration of a bad bearing in the spring long before you feel any wobble using the other methods. The same method can be used on the back wheels although there's more mass involved in the rear drivetrain. If you find a bad bearing in the front, do them both; if you don't, you'll be doing the other shortly anyway. Also check to be sure the castle nut is tight; it makes the same noise as a bad wheel bearing.

You'll be a buy gal getting it ready for June. I'm so glad you are both okay.

Sounds like an easy way to throw a stud through the gas tank or into something else nasty.

Speaking of harmonic humm; make sure you work out a way to attach the exhaust in the center as with the old 4 speed. I had just put a rubber hanger in the center on mine at first and the exhaust would resonate loudly around 2800 to 3200 rpm (cruising speed on the highway); my wife found the noise very annoying. When I finally fabbed a solid support in the center where it belonged, that resonance was finally eliminated.

The two piece driveshaft that came off the donor car with the transmission will work just fine; no need to make anything extra. If you want, a one piece driveshaft can be made by any driveshop, but it's really not necessary unless there's inadequate metal for attaching the center bearing carrier.

I use a set of long electrician's diagonal cutters to grab the ends and then a screwdriver laid across the rubber to act as a fulcrum and then lever the stud out. Crude but it works just as well as anything else.

Very nice article and pics. Where did you get the steering wheel?

Also the turbo transmission has 25 tooth spline on the inner axle joint (DOJ) as opposed to 23 for all the other transmissions.

OEM sparkplugs for Forrester (p/n 22401AA570) are list price $12.95 each! So what kind of platinum plugs are these?

This is the other side of Pro Rally. Subie Gal and Matt are okay, but it could have gone more awry very easily. This is Jamie's post from the ORG discussion forum: Hey Everyone, I've been too tired/stressed to write up a press release - but i do have some photos and details to share NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART okay? #1 thanks to the EMT's and Dr Deb on the scene. you guys were great - in spite of my state of shock and anger (sorry!) #2 thanks to Gary... i love you. that is all. #3 thank you Dave Clark for building a helluva cage #4 the car can be fixed - We didnt roll. WE FLIPPED somehow - the back of the wagon became unsettled, then airborne The initial point of impact was roof above my head... we slid along for sometime on our lid before coming to a stop on Matt's side of the car shortly there after, Mr Burnsie did his thing and caught fire again....!!! i've got a slight head deal - concussion or whatever and Matt is just fine We are very lucky and very grateful to all who helped us off the stage. small write up and photos are here: http://www.subiegal.com/images/rallies/oregonrally2004/oregon_rally05.htm thanks to all who have emailed, phoned and shared their concern for us. We appreciate it!! I personally love all you guys. the rally community just rocks look forward to being back out there and am planning on Dryad.... ! take care and rally on! Jamie Thomas ****----****----**** www.subiegal.com 2003, 2004 SCCA NorPac PGT Rally Champion 2004 Western States PGT Rally Champion

What is also different and has something to do with the compression ratio and really insigificant power gains.......the older 2.2L engine is a non-interference engine; the new 2.2L is an interference design. Not much difference when everything is running fine. But if you break a timing belt while cruising down the highway, the difference in repair costs is significant for the newer engine....lots of $$$$ more.

Good grief, you're really rolling along. When are you taking appointments for service work?

Unfortunately, I'm not sheduled for anything in Portland in the next few weeks.

Posted on the ORG yahoo board by Wayne Flynn: I've posted some shots from the weekend's action. Enjoy! (Reply off-list if you have any questions. thanks) http://www.pdxsports.com/go.asp?f=2005_otpr

NAPA or any other quality autoparts store will carry them. They are great for cleaning the threads and making everything right again; I use never-seeze compound on the plug thread to prevent future trouble also. However, the thread chaser tool will normally not fix a cross-threaded fitting unless you're very lucky.

If you need help in the evening before Thursday, let me know.

I'll be there. 'Looking forward to it.

I'm sure there'll be a learning curve.

I just did; and it certainly seems more stable than before. But of course hard to make the comparison because I'm really a very conservative driver normally.

You made me go out and try it out! It does seem more stable in hard cornering. Difficult to make the comparison but I'm happy with it.