edrach

Got this today from the ORG Rallycross chairman; self explanatory: Hello all... It has been passed on to me in this past week that just about EVERYONE is going (or had gone) to Ojibwe this weekend. As such, we are extremely short for the Rally Cross this Sunday, yes THIS Sunday, in Hood River. Myself, Chris Hale and John Alley will be the only ORG staff there to my knowledge and there's alot more to do than we are capable of. I need help in the following places... Registration Timing/Scoring Tech Starting We need to get the Cash Box from Simon (or whomever has it) to the event as well. The Trailer is at Rich's place out here in Vancouver and needs to be hauled to Hood River. I have a truck and can do it but was planning on driving my Rally Car out there and I can't pull it with that. So if there's a volunteer with a truck or someone that wouldn't mind driving my Durango, let me know. John Alley seems to have just about everything else under control. PLEASE let me know ASAP if you can help. This event being held in conjunction with a Subaru event so the turnout should be pretty good. Call or email me at dkov@pacifier.com. Thanks a million! Scott Kovalik ORG SCCA RX DIR --------------

Talk to me at WCSS6 and I'll go back and look at the two turbos in the yard and see if I can pull it for you.

Car was pretty high mileage for a turbo...over 200K on the odo. Must have been running pretty well for the previous owner to do shocks, axles and some engine work.

Car was not wrecked. Yes, the rear disks are still there as of today.

An '89 turbo wagon showed up at Lynnwood PAP yesterday. Other than the turbo assembly, it's still reasonably intact. No fancy wheels of LSD diff. But it is 4WD with an automatic tranny. Seems to have recent shocks all around as well as front axles. Gen2 heads with evidence of recent work on the driver's side of the engine.

The splines you want to check are on the hub you get from the junkyard. If the castle nut isn't tight enough it can smooth out the splines in the hub in no time. Sorry you can't get Pep Boys to make good on their service. Do it yourself, it's not hard. Don't take it back to Pep Boys for any other work.

Mick has the right sizes. Don't even think about the smaller clutch. Even under normal use, the smaller clutch will slip way too soon on a 4WD car. I made that mistake on the first Brat we had and before I knew the difference. You'll just wind up replacing it within a few months. Find a good flywheel and have it resurfaced (don't let them grind of the little "nubbies" that locate the pressure plate).

The pressure washer thing is the cone washer...have I got that right? If so, that's replaceable along with the spring washer. The hub itself can be easily gotten from the wrecking yard; just be sure that you get one where the internal splines are not excessively worn. The two washers and hub can be gotten for und $20 from the wrecking yard. Hopefully, they didn't strip the threads on the axle since that would require changing the axle too; expensive since you couldn't use the old axle as a core. Just an aside....if Pep boys messed this up, why wouldn't they fix it?

Caleb is correct; the cracks are present in almost any set of heads and you shouldn't need to worry about them. There's an outfit here in Washington that remans heads and they charge $195 plus old core for a rebuilt EA82. I can dig up the number for you if you need it. Good luck and welcome to the Board.

I was "shopping" again yesterday (8/24) and found two new Legacy wagons at the Lynnwood PAP. Both AWD; a '90 with a 5 speed manual and a '93 with an automatic tranny. The '93 could be a bargain for someone; it has 119K on the odometer and enough body damage on it so that the engine is very likely intact and trouble-free; alternator is already missing. Both cars are in row "T". Both cars have open diffs...sorry.

If at all possible, just find a set of disk brakes for it. Take everything: backing plate, caliper, rotor and hub. I even take the brake lines and all hardware just to be sure. An easy conversion and worth every penny you spend on it. Also, take a rust penetrant to the yard when you go to help remove the backing plate.

A ball joint tool does it for me. I put the "Y" portion around one stud and prop the rest of it under the opposite stud and hold the whole thing from turning by putting a wheel underneath the tool while I wrench off the nut. An electric impact driver would do the trick also.

If you have one lug nut for the steelies, can you bring it to WCSS6 for me? I have a set of 15 and could use the last one. ---Ed---

If anyone wants anything off of it, better hurry, it's only a few rows left before they move it to the crusher. I'd guess middle of this week or a day later.

You know, when I pulled the rear diff it was still there. I didn't check on it today but I'd be surprised if it was gone. There was definitely some fine fabrication and it was a custom lift. Jason was quite capable in making that stuff work.

I took a peek at it today. Driver's seat is junk; passenger seat is acceptable and black vinyl. Dash is tan and significantly cracked. Can't tell much from the axles other than the boots are not split and the boots are not original. I wouldn't consider the rear axles. Shift linkage is gone also.

I'll take a peek at it the next time I'm there, but don't hold your breath. It was in pretty shabby shape when it arrived there and the only thing I found useful to pull was the welded diff and I posted it on the Board about a month ago so it's likely to be pretty well ravaged.

It's been there a while. Jason moved to Forks; sounds like he left the Brat behind. I mentioned it when I first saw it there since it still had some worthwhile parts in it...like a custom lift.

Three "idiot" lights glowing is almost always a bad alternator.

GD is right on the money with that. At one time I bought two axles from an ARI wholesaler for my '86 wagon and installed them at the same time. The first axle gave me trouble within a week and I replaced it with a "selected" junkyard axle. Two months later, the 2nd re-manned axle started to make noise and I replaced that with another "selected" junkyard axle. Both junkyard axles lasted another year or two before needing replacement. I brought both of the remanned axles back to the wholesaler. I expected an argument; instead I put them on the counter and said they failed within two months. The counterman turned around and without comment went back into the shop and came back with two more "new" re-manned axles....no questions asked. I did have more luck with the 2nd set; but sometimes that is just the case as GD said.

Mary, I just tried their website and it's still up. Try the 'phone and see if you get an answer: 800-889-2953 352-351-9557 Mary, I just called the 800 number and Kevin answered the 'phone although they are normally closed on Saturday. He disavowed that they are not there anymore. He also said he would have no problem supplying you with axles for your '78 Brat.

Mary, I'd be glad to find parts for you. If you're specific and we can agree on a price beforehand AND I find a '78 or later gen1 Brat we can certainly get it done. I'm sorry to hear cvaxles.com is no longer there. That's a disappointment. Among other things they've done axles well and $55 per axle plus shipping and returnable core charge was a good deal. If you have specific needs, drop me a PM and I'll look around for one. Also, since I don't know the older brats too well, let me know when the same part is available on an older sedan or wagon. Also, try moosens; he's closer and may have a fair inventory of older brat parts for you. I hope the axle replacement directions work for you. They are lifted from HTKYSA and modified with my own experiences on the early and mid-eighties cars. I suspect it's not too different for the older cars like yours, but I honestly don't know.

Two things that I have found cause pre-mature alternator failures until they are resolved: A bad battery, terminals or cabling. An open circuit(intermittant or not) will almost always kill an alternator when the engine is running. Excessive oil in the engine compartment to the point of coating the alternator will also cause the alternator to fail.

I have to second GD's comment; it's too hard to go to the yard to "stockpile" parts. Too much time involved, not enough storage in my garage, and by the time I sell it, I've forgotten how much I paid for it and am probably losing money. However, I go to the yard often enough and if I have a list (very specific) of pieces, I will pull what I can and ship it off. The key here is "specific" and a comitment from a buyer to buy the part as soon as it's pulled or shipped. Some parts that I know I can sell eventually, I will pull them if I have the time....e.g. rear disk assemblies (complete), y-pipes that they forgot to cut up, turbo down pipes. I've given up on stocking composite headlamps since no one seems to want to pay the price for them. I pay $24 for them and charge $30 plus shipping for them; I don't think $6 profit for the time spent while I'm in the yard is unreasonable, but they don't sell at that price. It took me almost two years to get my "inventory" of headlights down to two from the eight that I had...and half of those went into my own cars. I go to the yards to get what I need; and when I can, parts that I can sell at a reasonable profit so I can support my Subaru addiction. Just my 2 cents worth.

Cone washer and flat washer under the Castle nut could be bad; also the flat washer goes on only one way...it's sort of a spring washer I guess. Lastly, it could be worn splines in the brake hub. Less than $10 part from the local junkyard. I'd suggest you replace the hub (used is okay), cone washer (new), and flat washer (new) before you go overboard on something else. This is less than a $15 investment total and less than 30 minutes to do. If the problem is still there, it wouldn't be the first time I've heard of a re-manned axle being bad. My personal preference is www.cvaxles.com or "selected" axles from the junkyard.