edrach

Ditto to that. Applying a coat of wax after polishing will extend the time to 20+ days.

I used Meguiar's #10 Clear Plastic Polish and only took 5 minutes with a soft, clean rag to get this result: I don't remember what I paid an 8 fluid ounce bottle of this stuff, but there's enough in the bottle to do 3 or 4 dozen headlamps!

Some of the EA81 struts had height adjusters (not a torsion bar).

Next ORG rallycross coming up shortly. Right after WCSS10 super get-together. Details can be found at http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm[/url] Weather for the weekend can be found at: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Astoria,%20OR&wuSelect=WEATHER

Mechanically the early EA82 and EA81 are the same; EA82 is 60Amp and EA81 is 55Amp. XT6 version will fit but I believe you'll have to change the pulley and it is a 90Amp.

Got it; already emptied.

Mike, if you're there Thursday, stop by the RV. We should have a couple of beers in the fridge. (Hopefully, the RV will be out of the shop by then).

"How to keep your Subaru alive" is certainly better than the Haynes or Chilton manuals (IMHO) and more entertaining too. However, you need to get the 2nd edition to get your '88 info. 1st edition only goes to '84. Bentley manual is a rewrite of the shop manual; sadly it only covers up to '84. But it's the best, even better than the shop manuals for those years. Factory service manuals are certainly the most useful for the "hardcore" among us, but they are pricey. All of these can be found on ebay now and then. Also try Amazon, you might get lucky. You'll pay more, but they'll likely have it in stock at www.books4cars.com ; they do mail order if you're not near Seattle.

No! I've had a converted 3.700 LSD in my Brat for over 5 years and it's still no louder than an open 3.900 diff. Certainly not a clanking noise; sounds like bad news to me.

Looks like a price drop on the $300 seats: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/785064314.html

This from dominical1: Saltair Recycling 4142 Thicke Road Ladysmith, B.C. V9G-1X5 Tel: 888-991-9918 or 250-245-4175 Fax: 250-245-4109 contact people are Ed or Rob Potts Spendy in price but knowledgeable and a good selection of parts

Galen, it's sad about the cancellation, but truth be told the club sponsoring the autocross lost the venue for some reason and can't locate another at this late date.

I believe the cost for the mud pit will be $5.

Camping is $10 per night per tent (or RV or car I guess). Reason for the extra charge on camping is it all goes to the fairgrounds; we just collect it for them.

I used to have the choker belts in my '91. Found a Subaru wrecking yard in Canada and bought a set of Canadian belts of the right color and trim. Installed and working fine, but a bit ugly since the new trim wouldn't fit over the space where the auto rail was; and the old trim wouldn't work either. I lived with the ugly and enjoyed the freedom of decent belts.

They will bolt right in although the Legacy only uses four of the 5 bolts that the WRX seats use; not a big deal. Also, make sure you swap the seatbelt retainers onto the WRX seats since your legacy belts won't lock onto the WRX retainers. Not a problem otherwise; rails fit just fine in the Legacy; I did our '91 that way and the seats are way more comfortable. I've seen fronts from a WRX go for anywhere from $100 to $300 or more. Frankly I wouldn't spend more than $200 unless they were absolutely perfect and exactly the right color match.

Some people have way too much time on their hands.

To build on qman's comment. It is $10 per night per tent (or RV).

Ben, my answer to you is the same as to Bill: If the car heats up the faster you go, the radiator is no longer capable of cooling the car to the thermostat temperature. I've found that flushing the system is a waste of money which could be applied to a new radiator. Replace the radiator as soon as you find it runs hotter than normal when doing the speed limit.

Not too much risk, but you should fix it before you throw a belt or cause more damage to the P/S pump. The pulley spokes are weaker than the P/S shaft and if it's wobbling it most likely caused by a distorted pulley (not too uncommon). Find yourself a pulley at the local junkyard and replace; easiest fix. If you're good with a small hammer, you might be able to straighten out the pulley. Just make sure there's no wobble in the shaft first....rare, but not impossible.

How old was your original radiator?

That's good to hear. If there's a radiator repair shop around you might try having it re-cored. "Back in the day" that was not an uncommon practice; but those shops have mostly disappeared. Funny all my cars settled out at just under the half-way mark. Maybe you have a cooler thermostat installed. I think I was using a 190 degree one. Smart move. Ditto on that.

You can cap them if you like with a rubber hose or some of those vacuum caps that Fuji liked to use on sections of the carb vacuum lines. But you can leave them open since if you're not running ATF into them, there won't be anything coming out. If you have the single connector on the temp switch that goes into the body of the radiator, don't forget to install the ground strap to the front, top cross member from the radiator. That's the ground return for the fan and your fan won't work without it. The two pin temp switch has a ground return in the existing harness.

Too bad they don't have rally tires in a 14" size.

Bill, I think you'll find the radiator will solve your problem. I'm not sure the water pump will make it work better and you can always replace it later if you feel you need it. Water pump failures usually are more definite than the inability to cool at speed that you are seeing. However, as far as the water pump is concerned, they tend to last 120K or more. If you're close to the 100K mark, I would consider it if you like. But there's so little effort in removing the radiator later (which you'll need to do to get at the water pump), that I'd put it off until later. Don't fix what ain't broke is my motto. Best of luck with this. Check your supplier on the adapter for flushing the cooling systems; I'm sure they'd have a stock hose available for you to determine the right size for the adapter.