wesley willis

the charge light in my loyale didn't come on when i fried my last alt. it just made everything get real bright and then both my headlights burnt out at about the same time. kinda bad because it happened on my way to work at 4:30am. use a volt meter to check what your alt is putting out. it should be about 14 volts. 12 is a little low.

cool! nice progress man, i like where you put your lights, and the tow truck lights are a nice touch. lucky, your third eye works too. here's a banana for your efforts.

on my loyale if i open the door while driving (dont ask why), the dinger goes on as well as the door ajar light.

nice score for $325! wish i could find a gen 1 wagon/sedan/brat/anything around here. my 91 loyale is the oldest subaru in town.

i really like your website. good job. my 90 loyale is great, even with an annoying cooling problem.

the library at my college rebinds books. they basically cut off the front and back cover, get a hard cover the same size, and reglue. i have a copy of htkysa on my computer, and have attempted multiple times to obtain the book off ebay but just resulted in failure. kudos to whoever transfered the text to an acrobat document.

there's a place like that an hour and a half away from my place. latest purchase : white wagon wheels for my loyale. sure they're covered in surface rust, but the wire wheel will make short work of that.

bump.

recently i've been having trouble with my brakes on my 90 loyale s/r 5 speed. i had a seized front caliper, so i replaced that, then i blew up a wheel cylinder, so i replaced that, then a hold-down clip broke in half, allowing the shoe to drag on the outer surface of the drum causing an awful racket, so i fixed that. yesterday i blew up the same wheel cylinder as before. the boot was shredded and it looks like something took a chunk out of one end of the cylinder's bore. it's all fixed now but i was wondering if there could be a different contributing factor. the booster/mc was replaced several years ago and there are newer flex hoses all around. the hill holder is NOT connected. all my brakes were properly bled using the X pattern as well. has anyone else repeatedly blown up wheel cylinders? any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. the car is my DD and sometimes i drive on graded logging roads, no wheeling or anything like that.

i would invest in a haynes or chilton's manual. they are really handy for these type of repairs. what kind of car is it? you probably won't need any new studs, unless you break one (i broke the exhaust stud off and had to drill/timesert a new stud.). the intake/carb has to come off and most of the vacuum stuff as well. it helps to tag everything. there is a wealth of info on these subjects. the search function is real handy. hope all this helps.

i moved with my loyale. fit half my belongings in the first go, the other half the second trip, and the third a bed, a chair and a bookshelf. had to get a truck for the mattress though, no roof-racks.

that's a gorgeous brat and those are gorgeous alloys. you still payed less for it than i did for my loyale, and you have nicer wheels and a canopy.

lucky! here in bc, $100 subes are harder to come by. i live in a mountain town with a population of ~30 000 and i swear half the town has loyales or gl wagons. the other half drive cavaliers. the only parts cars i can get are from saltair (sube wrecking yard) for much more than they're worth. good score.

paid 1200 canadian for a 90 loyale that's been COMPLETELY redone. new paint, trans, motor, radiator, axles, diff, all shocks/struts. the only thing it didnt have were good brakes which cost me a small fortune to finally get working right again.

nice! got my 6 bolt 14" nissans and need tires to go with it. not to mention a d/r and a lift. the rims were free though. now all i need is some time, effort and money.

it could very well be a vacuum leak. i accidentaly unplugged the p/b 4wd hose when i did the passenger side axle. had the same rough idle and engine shake plus my 4wd didn't work. sometimes the leaks make a hissing sound, but it can be difficult to hear over the engine noise without a mechanic's stethoscope.

my loyale has one. front passenger side of the engine.

crappy draw for the brumby...at least she wasn't going faster and totaled it/you. best of luck with parts-hunting.

there was an 82 gl wagon parked at my work for a month. eventually i decided to trade fuel doors with my hatch. the wagon's still had the black paint and a working latch to it. a few days later the wagon was gone.

new pump n seal worked for my hatch but the old pump is still good. it was just an impulse buy. you could try an engine flush with atf, maybe seafoam.

nice wagon.

couldn't you just wrangle the engine out by hand? never mind, this is an ea82 we're talking about. i pulled the motor in my hatch with a friend's help and some rope.

theres a standard hatch where i live, grey with round eyes. i think its an 81. pretty cool look.

interesting air cleaner you got there. does that thing have nitrous? i kid.

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