bheinen74

"Remove the air intake hose from the thottle body and clean the inside of it with thottle body, or brake cleaner. It will most likely be black and gummy in there so you may have to scrub it with a rag too. If you feel confident enough, open up the thottle and stuff a rag in behind it to catch all the solvent and gunk so it doesn't go into the engine, just remeber to fish it out before you start the car!! Or if you have time, get a new thottle body gasket and remove it from the engine so you can give it a proper cleaning." Ben. DO NOT be spraying lube on it. It needs free of any residuals, its needs cleaned of any lube you put on it. Spray it good with Brake cleaner, choke cleaner, etc, NO LUBE. Never lube anything on the throttle body linkages except using light machine oil is okay.

Big argument on if its better to wash the car less and have less rust, vs wash it more and have more rust. This applies to places where its "freezing and thawing on a daily occurrence every day it thaws, everynight it freezes" Has anybody ever thought about how salt, reacts with water at above freezing temps, etc. Washing a car on a warmed up day, and not completely removing the salt, then at night when the thawed out car freezes again, and traps the salt and the water around the pinch weld spot weld seams, can cause more rust than not washing the car at all. Salt is not corrosive without moisture. It does react with water, and when you wash the car, the water is not getting repelled in the little scratches, nicks, and underbody crevices. That is where the water goes, and the salt you are supposedly washing off. I have seen people hardly ever wash their car in the winter, and not get rust (apply good wax before the winter arrives) and I have seen people wash their car every otherday, and the car is rusty right away, maybe cause they are washing off all the wax protectant and the moisture with the non completely removed salts, well, cause more rust. In the IOWA winter, its usually not warm enough to apply wax in the middle of winter, and we do get the freeze thaw cycle alot. My recommendation is good WAX before winter, and if you do wash it, make sure you are VERY THOROUGH at removing the salts along the seams. NEVER WAX your car in the middle of winter if there is a slight chance some hidden salts are in there. You are just sealing it in to etch its way to the metal, and bubble, then hole will appear. I would recommend wax before the first salt is spread on the roads, and once after the spring has returned and every square inch of salt has been wipes off, and the car has no moisture trapped anywhere.

WOFC's watch out for critters.....

well, that price is high, but around here, i know of a Subaru that's in the shop for HG's and they are running about 3200 for it. That is typical for places around here, since they dont even know where the engine head is on a subaru What, 2 heads, on a 4cylinder. And the pistons are on the sides? Hmmm. And that is after they tow it with the rear wheels down and wonder why the tranny is toast due to their fault. back on topic. shop around.

do you let the car run to warm it up, defrost it? This time of year lots of people let the car run lke 10-15 minutes at idle (no miles being driven, but gas being consumed) so they think the mpg drops, when in fact, running it without the miles adding.....go figure. Your mileage will drop some just with the winter formulation on gas.

no one has posted the fact that the bigger oil filters at least on the EJ series engine, run the outer part of the filter housing alot closer to the header/exhaust. The closer is gets to the exhaust, the more chance you get to "cook" your oil, especially while at idle and there is no airflow to move that heat from exhaust. In the summer, that heat is even worse, so the smaller the filter, the farther it is away from the exhaust, less chance you cook your oil in there.

Yeah i had already found that lengthy reading. Well, new Subaru is not feeling like it can keep up with the others on the road, it is not a pleasant controlled drive. Whereas all my older Subaru's would easily outrun the others on the road and were totally planted to the ground. This 06 is not planted, it is like its walking a thin balance beam and keeps falling off, falling off before I could attempt the speed of other cars, trucks zinging by. I don't think its the tires, i think its a handling issue of some sorts, maybe toe, but I bet with 45 pages of others, that its not really something subaru wants owners to know about, and apparently no fix that I am aware of. so, to those of you thinking to go the route I took, getting rid of the old worn out subarus/clunkers to get something newer and nicer, well, be ware.

older Subaru is much better behaved on ice. I have to say, tonight, that the last good Subaru was 1994. My brother has 99 outback and its bad on ice, i did not really know what he was talking about til........ Tonight, I figured out what he meant. My 06 Subaru is now going to be donated off...... I am going to get back into the old school 1994 and pre.those were tanks. this 06 is like rinky dink crap on ice. Serious, this new stuff is not good at all for ice handling. Its not a traction issue, it's a handling problem of the car. Guess I might be done for the new stuff.

random

over to my parents random field about a mile from my house. The farmer leaves about 12 rows of corn to act as natural snow fence.

the BRAT next to garage. a neighbor down the street my dogs

all pictures here http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/blizzard%20Dec9-10_09/

i dont think the Isuzu have ever won crash test awards, reliability awards, high mileage awards, or general long term satisfaction awards as well, lots of not so good things. Maybe check out consumer reports older issues.

will get some pics and video tomorrow. visibility too low today to even try that. Guess i dont have to go to work yet another day. BRAT has a battery that i had not replaced when it went bad a few months back. 06 outback does not like deep snow, threw a CEL and cruise light blinky after pulling nto some deep stuff at a parking lot that had not been plowed, didnt look as deep as it was, had to rock back out of and gunned pretty good. Ended up pulling battery cable to reset that crap. researched and the CEL with blinky cruise light cold be many things, my guess is i got the wheels spinning in the front, and the back started to grip, so fronts were likely spinning at say 50mph and the back at about 10mph, so that will cause a trip for the ECU. dunno, will have to see if it stores a code. note to self, General Altimax tires not nearly as good as the Yokahamas that were on my purple wagon or the yoka's on my white ss. time to search for some good tires again.

i was at the bar in town and everyone in their big trucks had to go so they woulnt spin out. i just got home invited others to hang out, but they all were spinning on leaving parking. I had snow drift over headlight so i put in drive and drove over the drift. i bought a many drinks for others and wanted to leave town for more excitment and offered to drive, but instead i was suckered to stay yea AWD subie action now i am at home with 2 stinky wet dogs with snow from them in the house.

Its not a gasket on EJ22 oil pan. Its permatex ultra grey from the factory. usually need to remove the 2 bottom nuts for engine mounts from crossmember, and dogbone remove, and lift up some on the engine to get to back bolts.

banjo bolt......search it on the other boards, legacygt.com is where i would go to to search banjo. may be the cause.

It would be well worth your time to order a OEM from Subaru, and get that in as soon as you can. The one you put in was done in a pinch, to get you by. As recommended, pull it, and get rid of the junk when you can source a OEM Subaru stat if you plan to keep the car.

Is that an offer for you to aquire igniters for proud members here? I will gladly buy a handful of them, 5$ your cost, plus fees, plus shipping, plus your admittance fee to the PnPull, to get the part. here in my neck the woods, we got no EA's in the yards. I would also pay 300 for a Gen II OEM Subaru BRAT roll bar

good LUCK farmers around here tried to convert to tracks a few different times, and one guy i Know had the tracks basically fall off/fall apart the first year, and even thogh the warranty covered it, it was the fact the John Deere factory=supplier had no replacements in stock for a YEAR. so whatever you buy for this, buy several or many of them so you can keep it going. In John Deers situaation, the designers of the track systme forgot that tractors had to cross highways, driveways etc, and the engineeers never tested them on concrete. several times over concrete killed them....i do not like over engineered items. my friend had a brand new 400k dollar tractor with busted tracks sitting in his field for a year straight before the rep from JD could come out and tell him it would take yet another year to replace them once they could be produced at the factory. insurance company is called to get involved, and they have to TOTAL out the BRAND NEW tractor because no place could supply replacements. ....i learn from this stuff. Cool when it works YES. Tractor was pulled out of the field by another REAL tractor with REAL tires, that would never ever immobilize the 400k implement even if the tread fell off. tractor hauled off, and JD lost the lawsuit. now back to the on topic thread......its cool but theres alot more fun to be had otherways for a Subaru, ej22, ej22t, etc.

until some company reproduces some quality repair panels just for the BRAT, consider the BRAT a dying breed....

kinked or collapsed fuel line can do this.

Blue Coral one blade with holder is 3$, these are not the refills, its the holder and blade. The store usually stocks about 3 of a size at a time, so i just buy them and go get more then next time they are restocked. New blades 2x a year is nice. once right before winter, and once in summer I also like to use RAIN-X in the can that you spray on a towel, then wipe all over the glass, let haze, buff off. Some people do not like to use it, but i have not had a problem. Make sure clean the glass real well before application. read instructions on product label for temps to apply etc.

I think proper is to pull off vacuum hose on the intake and let it suck the SeaFoam out of the container. mine never smoked as well. sure sucked it up nicely like a drinking straw.