DaveT

check fuel pressure, also the injector.

If it has spark, and didn't before, it could be flooded. Spray carb cleaner into the throttle body for 1 to 2 zeconds. Hold gas pedal to floor crank 5 to 10 secondso of crank. It might take a few tries, but if it tries to run, that's a good sign.

Cheapo will work, but for how long? It's about reliability. When a timing belt fails, there is no warning. The engine stops running. If it is a non interference design, you are only stuck where you are. If it is an interference design, odds are, you end up with a bent valve or worse. OEM belts, idlers,tensioner will make it to the service interval.

First things to check- Are you getting spark? Remove center wire from the distributor, and arrange it with a wire or whatever to make a gap to ground. See if it sparks while cranking. Fuel? T a pressure gauge into the supply line after the filter under the hood. Also, when the engine is cold, and sat for a good while, if you remove the air boot, you can see fuel spray from the injector on the initial crank. If you try to observe this, do be careful about moving parts, and the possibility of a backfire. You don't want to be missing an eyebrow, or worse.

Stop leak is not a good idea. Won't work on moving seals [water pump shaft] anyway. IF you drive the car before fixing this, watch the coolant level like a hawk. As in check before every start. My experience has been this - if you let the coolant run low and the temp gauge runs above normal, the head gaskets are ruined. Maybe not instantly, if it's only a little over, but they gradually fail in that case. I have gotten away with running short trips in my older EA82 cars by topping off before every start, and using a modified radiator cap that runs zero pressure. The zero pressure is to slow the leak. I do not know if the newer engines will cool properly with zero pressure however. I managed to nurse one along with a cracked head long enough to rebuild a spare engine, which I then swapped in. The timing belts and idlers and tensioner should all be replaced at 100,00 mile intervals. Don't use cheapo parts for this.

I am posting this to help somene who may come across this before they get into this situation.... Roll pins should tap in, not be hammered in. When something isn't going right, stop. More force is not often the correct answer.

I made brackets based on what I saw on my 4wd wagon when I converted a fwd to 4wd. They don't attach to the flat part of the floor. They attach to the sides of the tunnel. I can try to remember to get pics tonight.

I recommend finding a factory service manual, online or on ebay.

Apply a thin coat of wheel bearing grease to all of the metal battery clamp and post. I take all the pieces apart, use an old toothbrush. Don't need to leave gobs of it, just get it coated. I still have the OEM clamps on my 1987.

Sounds good!

I've always seen a gasket there. Just to keep out moisture and dust. If they are no longer available, I'd cut one from blank sheet, or find an o ring like you did.

A small exhaust leak between the 2 o2 sensors can cause the 0420 code. The running bad, that needs to be fixed. That is not caused by a leak.

Window controls have nothing to do with the ecu.

I did make an 87 fwd wagon into 4wd. Before and after, 3AT transmissions. Had all the parts from doner cars that the body rotted away, but the hard parts were still good. Had to fab a bracket for the drives shaft bearing, and add a wire or 2 to the harness.

Lifter tick can also be a sticky lifter or few. Other noises other things. I don't see a clear description of the symptoms above.

Code 34 is EGR in my FSM. Check the solenoid to verify that it is open. If so, my permanent fix for this is here: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

Lowering a loyale is exceedingly rare. Like one other time in years have I seen a post about it. There are some threads about using different springs to stiffen and or raise ride height. I suppose you could make different cuts to drop it some.

Having the correct name might help. That is part of the airconditioning system. Looks like what was on my 1986 ea82. If you look through a factory service manual, in the a/c section, it should help identify it. If you don't have a fsm, there are some online / on the forum.

Gas and common oils / fuels are non conductive.

I'm curious why / how it interferes. I've seen it fog on just the right conditions, or is it the moving droplets? I like rainX. Mostly I just use the washer fluid kind, as the manually applied kind is too much work, and usually guarantees that it won't rain for a month.... it will be a long time before I have a car with eyesight anyway, but I am curious.

3 options: Clamp the rotor with pine blocks. Clamp the pulley with an old timing belt. Air Impact wrench, hold the pulley or rotor with gloves..

Yes, there is that, it is not a big volume in the motor area. I have one around here that I disassembled. The next time I come across it, I have to try powering it up. I suspect that it is likely not run at the extreme power levels that many brush motors you typically see sparking are run at. Since it is meant to run in lube [fuel] the brush material is likely different. I think I remember a metal screen on the inlet, which could possibly serve as a flame stop in the unlikely event of a spark / flash. The shear number of cars running fuel pumps this way - and the never heard of it happening numbers of explosions says something.

You want to swap the wiring harnesses from dash to engine. You want factory service manuals or online of same. You need full schematics. Definitely need to swap the ecu.

The concave convex is subtle. Hold a straight edge against it should make it easier to see.

In a GL and Loyale pump fuel flows right through brushes and everything. Sparks submerged in fuel don't do anything. You need fuel and air in the proper range of proportions to get anything "exciting" to happen.