DaveT

Here is how to fix 34 and 35 permanently: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html But those won't effect idle / running noticeably. 51 is the neutral switch always on error. I've never had that one.

There are places you can get all of the parts. Try alternatorparts.Com If I had one, I'd post a pic.

Unfortunately, aside from the main function /purpose, most things are designed for these items: sale price, lowest cost to initially assemble, speed (as in get the design done) Some add in life time / reliability.

OH, that SUCKS! That will be modded if I ever find myself owning one like that.

IF the compressor is turning, and nothing else unusual is happening, and there is no cooling, it is pretty unlikely that there is any significant amount of refrigerant left in the system. In my experience, something [o ring] developed a slow leak, and then you notice it doesn't work any more. Partial charge with fluorescent dye, use a black light to find the leak. Fix leak, recharge. It does help to have a refrigeration gauge/ manifold rig. And I also removed the compressor from a small window unit and added fittings to it to use as a transfer and vacuum pump.

My biggest would be the too close to just big enough radiator, and there isn't enough elevation to make the air get out quickly. Timing belt idlers made with non replaceable bearings. I remade 2 sets, and now just replace the bearings. I used to complain about replacing the belts every 50K, until I did the belts on our Forester. Yes, you only do them half as often, but the cost is around FIVE times higher. Another big one for me, is how since the EA82 era cars, Subaru in general has continued to drift further and further away from basic reliable cars toward luxury froo froo frills and cost.

There should be a check valve in the vacuum line to the vacuum reservoir that supplies those vent actuators. The check valve could be bad, or there is a leak. That could also explain crummy idle.

where did you get the 1 row AL radiator?

I'm pretty sure it was an older one. Too long ago. It just used a different lower hose to meet the different angle.

I did come across one variant in the past with a different angle on the lower hose. It also used a different lower hose. But all my others are the same, and use the same hose for top and bottom.

I'd be surprised if it were egr. The only idle air failure I had just killed idle. The codes might be a big help.

The same from at least 86 through 94. Except the turbo radiator has 2 rows of tubes for more cooling capacity. I have always upgraded to those. But they are hard to find. There is minor modification required to mount them.

I have had good luck with the no re torque Fel Pro head gaskets. After having multiple intake gasket failures, I have bought a pile of OEM gaskets. They are made differently - not just paperboard or whatever even the original ones were made from. They are now layered with metal, and the mating surfaces are slippery, I suspect to help deal with uneven expansion. NOTE: EA82 engines. I am not sure about what they have done for the older versions.

I suggest adding one. Increases the cooling system capacity. I had added on on my 76, and 78 back when I had those. And helps with figuring this sort of thing out.

I have not snapped a bolt since discovering the patiently work them out while hot trick. Some were very stuck.

Often the 6 bolts that hold the manifold to the head are difficult to remove. I have found the best way to remove them is to run the car until it is at normal operating temperature. Then gently work them out, while it is still hot.

Is that image from a FSM? I'd need to see the entire schematic for the engine electrical system to try to interpret what's what. There's too much missing in that small image.

The pinhole small bubbles in radiator won't show on a compression check. When it gets worse, yes. The easiest way to tell is how fast does coolant disappear from the recovery bottle over a few drive cycles. Is there more or less air in the upper hose each time? When this failure gets toward the bad range, so much "air" get pushed into the coolant system that a short drive will cause the recovery bottle to overflow. At this point, there is no question. I have always resealed a spare engine, then swapped it. Yes, it can be done on the car, but it's a lot easier to get at and see everything on a stand.

That is what happens with a broken boot, after enough dirt has gotten in, and grease gotten out. It will get worse and worse, until it becomes undrivable, or fails outright.

If you have a second person you can check to see if the axel nut is turning, etc.

Sounds like a hub or cvj stripped out. Others on the forum have actually experienced this. And have driven at least short distances on the rear drive half of the 4wd.

Get uderneath the car. Look for rust. Look at the metal covered by mudflaps. Check where the front fender goes down to the rocker panel by the front edge of the doors.

+1 what grossgary wrote.

When the leak is small, checking the coolant level and air in th hose, before every run tells more than a one time check.

I have noticed that the gauge on the dash, from car to car, is not calibrated. That is, half way up on one is normal, half way up on another is overheating. BUT on any ONE car, if it is normally say, at half, but then something is failing, and it starts reading higher, it is displaying that information correctly, that the engine is hotter than normal. Running hotter than normal is bad for these engines. That's what I have seen since 1988, over 7 EA82 wagons.