johnceggleston

no damage to the bottom unless it was run dry or something. since this is a SOHC there is a slight chance there is no damage. i suggest you hang a t-belt on it and see how it runs, maybe do a compression test or leak down. the worst case is bent valves. pull the heads and send then out to be checked/reworked, re-install. this can be done with out pulling the engine but it is way easier if you pull it. especially considering the other work you may want to consider: timing belt, all idlers, tensioner, cam seals, crank seal, oil pump re-seal and o-ring, oil separator plate on the rear of the engine(behind the flywheel/flexplate), valve cover gaskets. do not do the rear main seal unless it is leaking!! if the engine isn't leaking, i'd probably just do the minimum. but it you do it all you should be good for ~100k miles. how many miles?

center first, then corners 5 1 3 4 2 6 top center is 1 st bottom center is 2 nd top right is 3 rd bottom left is 4 th top left is 5 th bottom right is 6 th

+1 on the test connectors, that will make the fans run, may give error codes, and i think , blink the CEL. undo the green connectors.

if you remove the crank pulley bolt before you pull the engine you can check the timing. the crank keyway should be down, at 6 oclock position, when the cam sprockets on on the timing marks. pull the rad cooling fans to give you access, or the rad. both have to come out to pull the engine, as you know. but if the belt is off there is no need to pull it.

i have never taken one apart that had a cable, so i do not know if there is a piece inbetween the cable and the speedo driven gear shaft. probably not. if you do a search here, you will find other a couple of threads on this subject or close but usually on newer trans w/ speed sensors. you may get an understanding of how it works by searching here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/

cable, from the right hand side of the trans near where it meets the engine to the back of the speedo. it could be the speedo drive gears inside the front diff, but the cable is more common.

this is all too common and can be very costly to repair. some say it is the cats and they need to be replaced with subaru cats. (600 - 1000$ repair) some say it's the front o2 sensor and it NEEDS to be a subaru o2 sensor, not generic or after market. (~100$ part plus labor) some have done both and still have the cel, and so they go to the "anti fouler" fix. search "anti-fouler" here. (cheap) but you need to read up on each before you pay someone to fix it.

the front sensor should be a subaru part. the rear can be generic. technically the parts are the same, just the connectors are different but thre front MUST be a subaru part. get it on line . the other one can be cheap. or get 2 cheap ones and do the anti fouler trick. but there is a much greater chance the cats will not work properly if you do. www.subarupartsforyou.com www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

+1 if you are careful, you can take it back after you are done.

i think if you try this you will need, new tools, new fender, new hub? and an ambulance ride.... there is always the "bump the starter" method.

this will be a lot of work to eliminate the drive shaft as the source, but... remove the rear section of the shaft, leave the front section in. and install the FWD fuse under the hood. the trans and the rear diff will still turn, but the front section of shaft w/ the support bearing will not. if it still vibrates, look elsewhere and put the shaft back in. if it doesn't, then remove the fuse. if it vibrates then, you know. if it doesn't then add the rear shaft section.

the front one has the 3 wire connector. i couldn't tell from the AZ parts list if the front and rear are the same in 95. i take it your manual only has the one write up?

the only real way to tell is to look at your bill. if i were you, i'd get this car home before i did a lot more than absolutely necessary. you may find on the drive home that it does not run quite as well as you were led to believe and it needs more work. which means opening it up again. replace the busted parts, or even all the pulleys, (you can reuse them) and drive it home. under this theory, the water pump would be a good idea unless you have a record that the pump is new. as long as you are keeping the engine, parts are not a bad investment. if the seals are leaking replace them but if not hold off. there is still a chance you may need work when you get it home. the other way to go is to do the bare minimum just to get it home. knowing you will redo it all, labor wise when you get home.

what's NVH? thanks

the tie rod end connects to the wheel and is used to steer the car. if it fails it can cause an accident, the faster you are driving the worse the accident. have you had this shop / inspection station do any work for you in the past? i gouess not. i had my wifes car in for annual inspection, got a call saying i needed 500$ of work to pass. i went in and reviewed all of the items only to learn from the shop mgr, "oh, he mis-spoke, that was a mis-communication." yeah, right. if you go to a different shop and ask them if you need one you may get a different answer. especially if they see you as a new long term customer. maybe take it in for an oil change an while they are doing it mention that you are not going to your old shop because they tried to rip you off. "by the way, how do the tie rod ends look?"

somewhere i read if, after you back off the lock nut, you spray some paint on the threaded part of the tie rod, you will know exactly how far to thread on the new one. however, if you have been spraying the thing with pblaster for a week, the paint may not stick.

i think the outback 99 is dohc.

3 - 4 months, i added it last fall.

try trans-x power steering fix. i used on my wifes car and it changed a drip and refill montly to a refill ... well not yet.

subaru oem t-stats cannot be installed backwards, there isn't enough room. but after market t-stats can be installed backwards, they are much shorter.

i've heard this as well. i never fully understood the cause. but a timing belt jump is much more common. it doesn't much matter, both require pulling the heads and checking the valves. UNLESS, a new timing belt and correct timing resolve the issue.

if you still have the wrecked 96, use the vin off of that dash when having the emmisions done. they get a pass on the "not ready" part. but be sure to change back the vin when operating the car so you do not get in trouble w/ the cops.

more correctly, you did not fully seat the torque converter before you installed the engine and when you bolted it to the trans it damaged the oil pump. search"torqueconverter" under my posts to read up on how to do it. yep, you need a new trans. in the late 90s 2.5L cars had a different final drive ratio that 2.2L cars. you can use any trans from a 2.5L car 96 - 98. outbacks would be your first choice, but you can use a GT or LSi trans as well. if you find a GREAT deal on a 2.2L trans, 96 - 98, you can use it but you will need the rear differential that matches the trans. this added work usually means the 2.2L trans are not used.

before 99, the 2.2 and the 2.5 had a different set up on the plugs, 2.5 are horizontal and in the center of the valve covers at the bottom of a tube. 2.2s are above the valve covers, and angled up? i think, and not in a tube.