johnceggleston

you may drain out a little more by raising the front off the ground, but you will still need to drain and fill 4 times. or drian and fill enought to get to drive and then have a flush done at a shop for 100% drain.

my mistake, i was very surprised to think they would fit when i thought they were 60s.

195/80/14 will work. it is the same diameter and circumference as the stock outback tire, which is 205/70/15. 205/70/15 on an outback wheel will work, it's stock. 205/60/16 will fit with GT wheels. 205/75/14s on you legacy wheels will fit, it's .2 inches smaller in diameter and .6 inches smaller in circumference than stock outback tires. 215/60/16 is .1 inch smaller than outback diameter. 215/70/15 is .3 inches smaller than outback diameter. 205/65/16s on a GT wheel will be .2 inches bigger in diameter (.1 inch bigger in radius, thats less than 1/8 of an inch) and .6 inches bigger in circumference than stock outback tires. i'm not sure i'd spend money on tires this size unless i was sure. 215/70/15 is .6 inches larger than outbak diameter, i don't think i'd use them. 185/85/14 is .1 inche larger than outback diameter. i use outback as the standard since the struts and tires are a known match. one size down from those listed will lessen the speedo error. 2 sizes down from those listed will piut you back at stock legacy tire size, 195/70/14. question: if you swap in an outback TCU or ECU or instrument cluster (which ever) would you elminate the speedo error.??? i may try that. are you try to get as big as possible, or just bigger? price may make a difference. it seems that the ones they sell more of are cheaper, but maybe not. edit correction: if jamal's were 225/60/16 they'd be .3 inches bigger in diameter ( thats more than 1/8 of an inch in radius) than stock outback.

the 97 switches have 2 bulbs in each, one for low and one for high. they glow orange. 94 should be similar?

bump. why won't this thread show up on my list/search of 'new posts'? i must have clicked somthing i shouldn't . oh, well.

+1 for the cap. i had one leaking that i never would have noticed if i hadn't let the car idle, at full operating temp, in the drive way. the cap didn't leak until it was at full pressure. new cap, no leak.

http://www.subarugenuineparts.com http://www.1stsubaruparts.com http://www.subarupartsforyou.com you can search the last one and get partnumbers and then check the other 2 sites and order from the one you want. there's always shipping. i prefer jamie @ subau genuine parts, she's a member here. have your vin# handy.

compared to most, i'm pretty new to subarus and my experience is limited to 90s legacys, but to me 3 cylinders is pretty quirky. spare tire mounted on the engine is quirky. but the best, cars that run 300k is quirky. no, wait, that's just subaru. was the colt 3 cylinders?

i do not have an electronics degree, but my idea was ... instead of controling input to the duty c, control the output from the rear speed sensor. i'm told this is a square wave? and this is the what the computer uses to determine how much power to send to the rear. the single biggest advantage to this would be that even when you have it maxed out with 50/50 power split, you still have the designed 'slip' which would avoid damage to the transfer clutch. i have no idea how to build a square wave generator and as nipper pointed out last time, you have to have some output from the speed sensor or the computer will think it has failed and go into limp? mode. i guess you could rig a small motor to match turn for turn the rear speed sensor and then gear it down and then moutn another sensor sending unit ... or maybe you could do it electrical components and no moving parts. ideally you would have one you could dial in, or one that would send the computer only 80% (or whatever) of what was comming from the sensor. good luck.

supposedly the belts on a 2.2L are easy to do but it's still labor. unless you need it immediately, i'd order it online and get the cheaper one (100k). if you get one from AZ and it fails, you have to do it again. i got some great advice about replacement parts for computers a long time ago, and i think it's true for critical car parts as well. don't buy the cheapest parts you can find, buy the besst deal on QUALITY parts you can find. it'll run longer. you can get a belt as cheap as 28$ at AZ, but i'll order the $40 somthing subaru OE belt on line. i just have to remember to plan ahead.

i don't see why not. its much better than the one i used from AZ. two thoughts: when you reassemble, put anti sieze on the splines. and have you considered using the axle that's on the hub. i went to swap a hub from my parts car to my daily driver only to realize i coundn't find the socket to remove the axle nut. so i swapped the set. used the parts car's hub and axle for my good car. lots less work now, more work later. good luck

due regardless. point taken.

autozone has a loan-a-tool program. go get a puller. it would be easier if it was mounted on the car or in a vice for stability, but use a puller.

somme of that stuff could be very toxic!! be careful.

nipper, if the '03 llbean outback has a limited slip rear end, or was it the front one, and since it's a 4.44 ratio, the only thing keeping us from putting one in our outbacks is will it fit, bolt patern and length. i wonder..... so many IFs. i'd like to see a picture of one.

not necessarily. i thought there was a 60k belt for all legacys in the US except calf. and a 105k belt for california cars. i priced belts at autozone and the calif. belt is cheaper than the fed belt, but you have to order it. so if you walk in and ask for a legacy t-belt you pay more and get less. if you order it, you pay less and get more. there's a price difference at genuine subaru parts as well.

i don't know about your '03 beaner, but in 96 - 99 outbacks / legacys if you put it in D1 or D2 it would engage the AWD immediately. basically the computer would call for AWD. in D3 or D the computer would wait to detect a speed difference befroe sending more power to the rear. is your AWD computer controlled? i bet the lsd is nice.

i think all legacy wiring harnesses are the same. all outback wiring harnesses are the same, i think. i know the wiring for the rear lights is different betwen and outback and a legacy L, no trailer wiring connector. my 97 GT has the wiring in the console for the heated seats, i just haven't found the connectors under thecarpet under the seats yet. when i went back to the salvage yard for the switches, i asked for and got the connector pigtails at both the switches and at the seats. this way even if the connectors weren't there icould splice in some wire and have heated seats. a couple of questions: is the wiring for the auto trans present in a manual trans car? i don't know. is the wiring for heated seats / power mirrors there in a legacy brighton? i think it is.

it's a good thing i don't throw any thing away. thanks for the tip!!!!!

use some kind of really good glue and glue a disk, like a nickle or a thick button, to the door where it bears on the switch. if you use a nickle it would be a 5 cent fix.

i just bought leather seats for my new to me 97 leg GT, when i got home i found the wiring for the with heating elements. i went back and got the switches. i haven't looked hard, but i didn't see any obvious wiring under the seats for the connections. is the wiring & onnectors there? do need to pull up the carpet to find them.? thanks, john P>S> FWIW: i just learned form swapping out these seats that there isn't a seat belt sensor in the passenger seat of the 97 GT or the 99OBW.

i came across this. i hope it helps, but it may not apply. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/RearDiffInfo.pdf

his part number TZ102YBABA-CF is a a little different from most i've seen. the 'y' is new to me. legacys (90-98) with AWD, all have a nother 'z' there. maybe because it's from an impreza.? there is an end wrench article telling how to check the front and rear diffs to make sure they match. generally it says to put one side of the car on jackstands, unplug the trans wirring connector, this locks the AWD unit in 4WD, and start the car in neutral, brake off. now with the AWD unit 'locked', if you turn the rear wheels , the front should match them turn for turn. if they don't the diffs don't match. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/CorrectInfo.pdf if it's really an american car, i thought the 99-00 impreza and the 99-oo 2.2L legacy used the same trans, part number any way. a 96 outback should be a 4.44 final drive. my guess is that the 00 2.2L impreza is 4.11. just this week some one posted a hard to read list of info for trans and final drives, all of them, and i can't find it. it was on legacycentral i think. i'll look again. found it: it's hard ot read but .... according to this thread, '00 imp 2.2L is 4.11, and 2.5L is 4.44 http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58%20f69c2cbd the tranny chart is just for manual trasnsmissions. it's ok to bookmark both of these. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf

this is a common problem. there is a chance that techron fuel treatment will help. make sure to get the one that says on the bottle something about fuel guage or sending units. others will know more, but i think part of the problem is that there are 2 sending units (edit: the gas tank straddles the rear drive shaft, it has 2 sides), one on each side of the fuel tank. the second one may still be bad. i think what happens is that they get dirty and don't transmit/ or send the correct information. mine 97 OBW reads empty @ 200 miles. but will drive 320 on the hiway before the lioght comes on. my son is driving my 95 leg at college. it sat for a year waiting for a replacement treans. before it sat the guage was good, perfect. after the sit, it didn't work at all, didn't budge from E. i ran some techron thru it and it started working intermittenly, did it again and now it works like my 97OBW, E @ 200 miles. we use the trip counter and the light to guage empty. FYI: it's a 15.9 gal tank.

is it clutch related, when you let off of the gas and it makes the noise, does it go away if you push in the clutch pedal.?