johnceggleston

NGK plugs and wires first. cheap and easy and they can't hurt. until you do them you are just guessing . then re-assess.

i think the rice will ''cook off'' once you get it running. but the challenge is to get the alignment right with the rice in the way. may be a vacuum cleaner while you open and close the valves? is it only one cylinder? find a way to open the valves for that one cylinder while leaving the others alone.

i would limit my search to 00 - 03. rumor has it that the 04 auto trans in the H6 is different. i do not know about the H4 auto trans, if they changed too. try http://ww.car-part.com sort by zip code shipping will cost about $150 you will have to search each model and year separately.

the u-joints are factory sealed and are not really replaceable, it is not a ''remove clip, drive out joint'' process like it was in my 67 dodge pickup . having said that there are some drive shaft shops that do it. the price is probably cheaper than a ''new'' shaft, but more than a used shaft. could it be a wheel bearing?

correct, none of the 90 - 94 ej22 have EGR, none. starting in 95 the ej22 auto trans cars usually have EGR. it sounds like you found a winner. good luck. remember to swap your flex plate.

if the info you have provided is accurate, there is no difference in the two trans. they are exactly the same. what is wrong with your trans?

the 99 ej22 can not be replaced with an earlier one. you need either a 99 - 00 ej22, legacy or impreza, or a 00 - 03/4 ej25. there are some tricks to making it work, bolt on your intake, and cam / crank sprockets. however, you could use an earlier ej22 block and bolt on your heads, intake, and cam / crank sprockets. that would work.

would some seafoam help clean things up and maybe eliminate / control pre-detination?

how many miles? have you seen a 3.0 that leaked externally? or both in and out?

rear diffs do not fail very often unless they run out of gear oil. it is a wheel bearing.

no, if the bearings have slop you should replace them.

if you are going to pull the engine, then you can repair ALL of the leak points. but you don't really need to pull it to do the timing belt job, or most of the oil leaks. one leak on the rear of the block requires an engine pull to fix. doing the repairs with the engine out og the car is easier, faster, but by the time you r&r the engine, they are probably about the same time. maybe a little longer if the r&r is your first.

new plugs and wires are almost always a good idea, especially if you have not replaced them in several years. but if it started running ruff, all of a sudden maybe the timing belt slipped a few teeth. how old is the timing belt? how many miles? how long have you had the car, miles? any recent work?

at this point it is probably a combination of several things 1/ wrong t-stat. this should be subaru only. the ones from the parts store are crap and will cause overheating. if you still have the old one it is probly still good. 2/ you need fill the cooling system properly. open the vent plug by the top rad hose, and fill at rad cap SLOWLY. when the coolant over flows the vent , plug it and top off. idle engine until the t-stat opens and then top off and seal the cap. 3/ burp the cooling system. if there is air in the top of the system, it will over heat. it will likely idle all day long and stay cool, but at speed it will overheat. so if you are confident that you have fixed the leaks, install and factory t-stat and refill the system correctly. how to fill and burp your cooling system. - burpcoolingsystem - Subaru Legacy Forums if there is a chance you may still have a leak, i would fill it with plain water and test it. if good, drain it and refill with 50/50 coolant

almost. you will need to swap in from your old engine: intake manifold cam sprocket , (driver) left side crank sprocket exhaust y-pipe and the flex plate if it is an auto trans. AC bracket maybe (they may be the same) the rest should be good to go. see above.

nope. 95 - 99 the legacys L, brighton, and LS, had the ej22. 96 - 99 the legacy LSi, GT, and Outback had the ej25. starting in 00, only the ej25 was available for those cars. low end imprezas, (not wrx or the like) 93 - 94 = ej18 95 - 97 = ej18 or ej22 98 - 00 = ej22 01+ = ej25

sounds high. you can get them for about $100 . ''theimportexperts'' on ebay used to offer a kit w/ water pump for ~$125 (plus ship.) w/o pump for $90. not sure if they still do. they will likely have something offered, but it may not be all or exactly what you want. www.rockauto.com or amazon will also have good prices even if they do not have the complete ''kit'' you need.

miles? trans? recent service? timing belt done when? CEL?

yes , buy it. but don't be surprised to see oil leaks. most oil leaks can be addressed when the timing belt is done. and if you are new to subarus, read up here before you do ANY self maintenance. better safe than sorry.

the impreza 1.8L engine is an ej18. same design as the ej22 in the legacy. the earlier 1.8L engine , ea82, was a different design, that i am not familiar with. the ea82 was used as late as 94 in the loyale, i think. but the EJ series, ej18 and ej22 are very hardy, very reliable, very forgiving engines. of those years there are not a lot of differences in the engines. in 96 they went to single port heads instead of the dual port 90 - 95. short of that, the engines are the same. there is an obd2 change in 95, but that has no affect on engine reliability or durability so that means the other car ''options'' are the deciding factor. and there are some who believe that the luxury cars of the 90 - 94 years are a much better choice than the later years. the more luxury cars would be the LS, or the LSi if they had them. there may be other models that i am nor familiar with as well. 90 - 94 are not my area of expertise. having said all this, i like your thinking. you may want to expand your thinking to include the 96 - 99 Outback, IF, IF, IF, it has a 95 - 96 ej22 engine transplant. i do not know how the outback compares to the 90 - 94 high end cars, but i know they are more popular than the lego L, or brighton. and maybe the impreza. i have zero experience with the impreza.

i would question the diagnosis. who told you the head gaskets were going bad? the H6 is not known for head gasket failures. i have only heard of it happening when severely overheated. but my experience is limited to 95 - 04 cars. there is a fair amount of H6, EZ30, head gasket info at subaruoutback.org . (you may have the ez36, 3.6L engine, idk, but the same procedures.) there are several H6 head gasket threads there, grossgary is active in one of them.

it may be mechanical, and fairtax has covered that. but the odds are that that new fluid will improve if not fix it. a bad duty-c and dirty fluid seem to be the most common causes. fluid maybe more than duty c since it is a result of little or no maintenance. i have heard of one situation where apparently a bad (stuck?) duty-c was corrected by new fluid. the FWD fuse did not fix the binding or put the car in FWD, but with new fluid, the duty c did in fact put the trans in FWD. this of course is all based on the owners report. but ircc, the owner was not a dummy. but if you have to open it up, unless you have lots more time than money , you may want to consider taking care of everything at once. if you don't mind doing it twice, just do the minimum. if i was selling the car, it would be hard for me to sell it ''knowing'' there was something wrong or about to brake. but bad discs are way less common than dirty or bad duty c. so if fluid fixes it, you are good. by the way, if the duty c were bad, you would have (should have) a flashing AT Temp light at start up.

the only other issue is EGR or not. the 93 does not have it. if your 97 is an auto trans , it does have it. but there is a work around, so i would snag the engine and go with it.

rather than welding the nut to the frame, how about welding some thing to the nut, so when it rotates it will bump into the frame rail, and stop. then it will act like the mounting bolts for a trailer hitch.

after the reseal, you do not want it to leak. but almost as bad, is if small pieces of sealant, or large pieces for that matter, break off on the inside and clog oil circulation channels in your engine. so seal it, but don't over do it.