johnceggleston

i liked the thread that talked about making your own split boot. get a regular boot, slice open neatly with a new blade, razor or exacto knife. wrap it around the axel and then SUPER GLUE it back together. my other thought was what if you did this over top of the existing boot. it may still leak but the grease would have to work twice as hard to get out.

there are 2 sensors, one in front of the cats and one after the cats. the cheaper bosch ones look identical to each other, but one has a 3 plug and one a 4 plug. i've never seen a subaru unit. i've seen 4 total, all bosch. i sprayed mine with pb blaster, and had npo trouble. some one wrote about warming up the exhaust, but i did mine cold. john

i may have one off a 97 obw. i'll check today. if it's located in the same position i'll let know. i have a 4eat that went bad. i sold the clutch pack but still have the rest. john

why do you want dohc on an ej22? won't that make it an interference engine?

i just did a dolly for the first time. guess what, YOU CAN'T BACK UP!!!!!!! never even occoured to me untill i saw it written on the trailer tonge. and even then i didn't believe it. but it's true. you can't back up. because the car flexes on the trailer, it won't back up like a regular trailer. and if you go too far it will jack your car into the dolly. if everything is absolutely straight, you can back up a little, imean a very little. so don't bet on it. one good thing about a dolly, you can jack up the front of the car, and work the dolly under the wheels chain it to the tounge, and then lower the tounge. for a car that doesn't run it works great. of course, a winch would be easier. but then uhaul doesn't rent winches.

you got it.

absolutely!!! change the fluid, maybe do it twice, let it run for a few days inbetween. i think i remember someone changing their's and the tb didn't g opaway for a copuple of days. AAMCO is in the business of selling rebuilt trans or rebuilding trans. i took a truck there a long time ago, they quoted me an astronomical price and when i said no, they came way down. i didn't trust them. if you can't correct the TB, i'd go used tranny. you can try used clutch pack, just look at them before you install them. if they don't look good don't put it in. you will have 2 to compare, yours and the new used one. if you go with used clutch pack, i'd spring for new duty c solenoid. it's electronic about 50$ i think. you'd hate to go back in next year because it falis. but change the fluid first, drain and refill . do this 3 time and you've gotten most of the old out. run it for a while, give it time to clean, and do it again. the power flush is 125$+-. atf is 8$ per gal. good luck.

you need a 24" (min., 36" is better) breaker bar 3/4" drive. you won't use it everyday, but when you need it you'll have it.

well hopefully there is a safety factor built into that 1/4" number, but i wouldn't bet on it. to expensive to repair if you are wrong.

i'd take it a step further and instal the FWD fuse, engine running, a/t in neutral, front wheels on car dolly. now you have trans lubrication, but the rear whells are free to roll, just like in FWD. there is no damage then. but here's the problem. the only time you tow a car is when the engine doesn't run or the tranny does'nt work. so what are the chances you could ever take advantage of this setup.????

my calculator says 1.273/32" difference in tread wear to hit 1/4" circumference difference. in other words, NOT MUCH>

would pulling the valve covers help diagnos the problem. at least you could see what 's moving and what's not. and if you do the HG that's step one, right? and it's bound to be easyier than HG. would it help to remove all of the plugs put oil in the engine and spin it with a drill or eletric motor of some kind. this might free up the valves? obviously you know what you're doing, i'm just thinking out loud.

i just finished 2 bad mpg tanks. the first was due to a misfire on #4 about 10 gals. 16.75 mpg. new plugs and wires corrected that. the second was just the after the first, drpove 136 miles on 8 gals. that's 17mpg, very little hiway. question, will the ecu re-learn and start delivering good mpg even if i don't reset? how long will it take? reset is easy, but i was just wondering how long it wolud take for the computer to correct itself. and if it doesn't is that an indicator of bad o2 sensor. thanks, john

if you haven't done it yet, make sure you have enough oil in the engine. my 2.2L (160k miles) would tick like crazy when the oil got too low. it was burning it , leaking it , i fely like some one was stealing it??? new valve cover gaskets (125$), t-belt, water pump and front seals (675$), and finally rear main seal and oil seperator plate (part of a 500$ tranny swap) reduced the leaks. (over 18 months) but low oil will cause ticking. keep it topped off and put some MMO in the oil.

those who know say not ot turn subaru rotors, especially the rear. they are unvented and don't do well. the rears are really cheap anyway. but again, they say not to do it.

i think the only way to find out for sure is to call the dealer parts dept. and give them the tranny part numbers. but even if the rear diffs aren't the same you can swap them as well. the standard when swapping trans. is to get the same year, make and model. or if not that then get the tcu and diff as well. you should be good. so are you looking to put the 2.2 4eat into the 2.5 car? in theory (theory only) your car will have less torque but better mileage/speed.i think. less torque on a heavier car might make it slugish. but the difference may not be noticable. they say it isn't when you swap the motors.

my only speedometer cable experience was in 1976 with a 1961 chevy pickup. i can't help you.

nope. not on the front. but somehow, the computer has to read and compare the speeds.maybe remove and lube the cable, or check the connections at the speedo. or answers from someone with 93 leg knowledge.

the top pic is of the rear speed sensor, (clutch pack extention housing) the bottom one is the front which affects the speedometer. i would change this one if your speedo is acting funny. i can't tell from the pic which sdide it's on. i don't know the price. you can find pricing online. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

my understanding is that the tcu / ecu(?) uses the front speed sensor, right front of trans i think, and rear speed sensor, clutch pack extention housing right rear, to compare speeds. (both are accesable from the outside of the tranny) the front measures the front wheel speed and operates the speeometer, and fwd cars only have this one. the rear speed sensor measurses the output to the rear drive shaft and is only(?) used to compare speeds(?) front and rear. so maybe sensors can age, or maybe the tcu can age or may there is a mismatch between tcu and transmission. i think i read recently about some one replacing a front speed sensor and it was cracked. (it may have been a different post/sensor that was cracked.) but his speedo was acting funny. it would always read 40 mph. i haven't read any thing about replacing the rear. haven't heard any complaints about them. i think it is a simpler sensor, but i don't really know. and since there isn't any speedometer to tell you if it's working correctly you wouldn't know unless the awd didn't work or the tcu threw a code. so maybe it can get tired. i do know that they do not "unplug" from the wiring harness easily. i think you have to cut the wire.

i'm pretty sure the rear end in the 2.5 is 4.44 and the 2.2 is 4.11. when shopping for differentials, the first question they ask is engine size.

i was hoping for a caster correction as well, but from what i've read, there is no caster adjustment on these cars, not the 97 obw anyway. i hope i'm wrong but i think i'm right. so that leaves control arm bushings? are they hard to change? what do they look like , where are they?

i got the same price. but that is for a 96$ wire set. 4 plugs @5$ each, plus 1-2 hrs of labor. the oem wires cost less than 50$ online. plugs are 10$ for 4, and your labor. others will tell you it takes 30 min. but i spent every bit of 2 hours and 4 beers. and it didn't hurt at all. again go on line and buy some leather seats, you may have to spend 200$ - 300$ but you'll love it. and since there won't be a car payment, you can afford 300$ next month, or the one after. i know 95 - 99 are all the same , i think the 2000+ years fit as well. but you'd have to check. apparently all LSi and ooutback LIMITED have leather as standard issue. for other cars it was an option.

it sounds to me like that the computer measures the front vs. rear speed and increases the power to rear when its slower. it would then stand to reason the if the rear speed was greater it would reduce power to rear. this would give the front more pull. correction, it may be that it can't turn the rear wheels faster. the rears will only turn as fast as the front, slower sometimes - but not faster. the rear wheels can spin but not faster than the front. but i think we have to start thinking about this in the way it measures the difference, speed not power. as long as the wheels front and rear are turning the same rpms, the computer does nothing. when the front spins faster, more jucie to the rear until they catch up, or get within spec. as the speeds match again, less to the rear. the duty c apparently has a minimum operating cycle of 50%, standard is 90%. 100% operating cycle is FWD and 0% is locked (torque bind). ok , my eyes are glazing over. edit: i started writing befroe nipper and ended after him. obviously he knew the answer, i had to think aboutit.

use it as a pattern and cut a new one, a little thicker, less likely to warp. then glue on the carpet. i have the plastic one out of a 96 wagon, but i think it's a little longer, it has a handle that sticks out instead of a cutout for a hand hold.