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1) onle the drivers window switch has a light, annoying at first but you'll get used to it. 2)the heated seat switches only light up when you turn them on, they have a orange light on the top and bottom. Flip the switch down and wait a few minutes to feel the heat. 3) No idea 4)that guy was a douchebag. Don't drive with the fwd use in, its just for emergencies Welcome to the family

try looking just above the brake pedal. Never seen a obs, so i am just guessing here. There might be a hole there that is grommeted from the engine side, just use a wire hanger with the wires taped to it, and stick it through.

Perfect, Everything that I have read talks about changing the plug seals. I trusted Jamie (www.subarugenuineparts.com), but wanted to make double sure.

So, apparently I don't have spark plug seals on my '96 2.2L. From everything that I have read, I concluded that my '96 2.2L did in fact have spark plug seals. Can anyone verify this.

They don't use salt in PA, so your '91 should look good. My 96 Legacy has the same problems you are describing, only the back 1/4 is rusted. I was thinking because the auto car washes don't get the last 1/4 since it usually shuts off. I know its a stretch, but wth

Pontiac gave us a tour of their farfax plant for a few years, till they moved to Canada. This was for grand prixs. It was the national gathering that was set up everyyear (still is, but its not the same). I used to have a gtp. The tour was awesome. Its so cool to see all the machines and people going at it making different parts of the car come thogether. Also got some free parts

That key thing is good to bring up. I have heard something about them having problems with a timing chain tensioner. other than that its all good. If you want stiffer springs, just get some king/scorpion springs and lift it at the same time

Dynamating an entire car is a huge PIA. The easy part is taking all the crap out, then you gotta set aside a few hours to clean, dry, and finally lay the dynamat. Pray you don't break any clips on the plastic trim pieces while either removing or installing. Hope that it isn't to hot the day you do it, as dynamat won't stick to your sweat that is now dripping on the metal. You'll need a heat gun to get the dynamat(or any other sound deading crap) to do what you want, so this only makes it hotter. Last but not least Dynamat is really expensive. there are others out there with good reviews, but doing a long tiedious process like this I would only want to use the best. You're going to need at least 75sq. ft; which is two bulk packs, and I would suggest using extreme (not the reg. stuff).

Thanks, I sent you a pm. As far as the rheostat, sorry i cant help you. Don't even know what a rheostat is.

HA I cracked a 4.6l Ford V8 once. I only owned it for 6 hours and put it into a tree. It was a 94 t-bird, maybe a 96. Either way it only lasted for 6 hrs. Oh, stupid 16yr olds. Made close to 3 grand in insurance $ though.

Well, its not the bulb. I tried tonigh w/o the bulb in it, and its still blew. Man this blows, I think I might just cut the wires instead of trying to fix the problem. Anyone have a wiring diagram that they can either post on the site or send me in a email? From what I am getting from your descriptin OBW99, is a loose ground wire on the socket itself? so maybe just solder the wire in the right place? Guess I'll have to take it all apart and screw with it then.

The sluper glue holding that was holding then screw tabs on mine just broke, again, today. I am just buying a new one, not sure where tho. Check local jyards. My local jyard on sees a 95+ subaru a couple times a year, and it stripped within a day or two. I have only seen 2 in the past 2 years

I used mt90 and toped it off with syncromesh back in dec or jan.... Cold shifts always sucked and clunked, over the summer the shifting was great, now that its getting colder the shifts are getting worse, again. So I am switching to uncle scottys cocktail. I know a lot of u are not fond of nasioc, but this guy has been running it for 3 years with no problems, and hundreds of people on that board use it and love it. Some oldschool people over there have used it also and saw improvement. I will list the cocktail ingredients: 1 qt Redline lightweight shockproof 1 qt penzoil Syncromesh 1.x qt castrol HypoyC 80w-90 You can order everything from amazon. When you order it, you'll see that the related items are all listed, and they are the other componetns of the mixture. Like I said I haven't tried it but give me a month.

Its called a Oil seperator PLATE

Most of this has been covered, but heres my list i just ordered today from Jamie: Flywheel clutch cable timing belt and tensioner thermo water pump w/p gasket cam seals front and rear main seal valve cover gaskets/grommets/spar plug seat Oil seperator plate oil pump o-ring timing cover gaskets oil filter Other thing I have or will be getting soon: new gear oil new motor oil new serpintine belts (gatorback) clutch kit

do a tranny (not flush) oil change, and filter, that should help the shift. Make sure all tire are near circum. of all others, and psi are all the same. Oil leaks are common. A tuneup would do you a world of good. Its a RHD treat it nice.....I always wanted a rhd vehicle.

Yea they should be identical, as the cars are identical except for the rear 1/4

Here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42623&highlight=seafoam

You don't need to drive around, you could just rev it in your driveway. The key ingredient is turning the motor off to let the seafoam go to work on the build up.

I am pretty sure it is called Oil seperator gasket and, I believe it seperates the engine from the tranny (clutch area)

From what I understand and did myself is to suck it in, but to be careful as to not let it smoke to much while its sucking. After you have sucked the amount desired in with minimal smoking, turn the car off. Let it sit for a few minutes, then turn the car on and drive around. Now when you drive around it will smoke for maybe a quarter mile. This is all on a hot engine BTW.

Yea, I'll prolly just order tom. from jamie along with a bunch of other ****. Better to be on the safe side. No one on the oil seperator tho??? Neither Jamie or 1st has a listing for the oil seperator plate? any one have a part #? Guess i'll search for part #, although I dont recall seeing it before.

Yea that sucks, what was the first car?

you should pour it in, wait 5 minutes then drive around and smoke everyone out. Did it smoke when you drove around?? or just when you were pourng it in

I want to go OE, but I want to search for the best price. I've seen two diff. companies that are stated as OE on ebay, and in no way am I going to buy one just find out its the wrong one.