moosens

Pretty sure there’s a current post on FB showing the DC intake equal in length to the single carb which make sense. There’s no difference in the block or heads so no reason to stretch the intake. Guessing you have a narrow case EA71 from 1979 and earlier. Beginning 1980 they get a wider case. Intake might still be the same, I’m failing to recall.

Skipping the story telling for a change. We’ll summarize with , time to move on. My focus is now entirely 1972/3 Coupe and stage one 4WD wagon. So I/we are unloading our stage two 1977-79 parts and more. Here is an entire shell sitting at a friend’s place that I now won’t be using. Ok here’s where you want to read carefully. Car is a brown 1978 4WD wagon as the title says. As it sits there is still a transmission in it that I want to keep. I can swap another of the same to you if you’re absolutely sure you’re going to need that transmission. If you’re doing the EJ or whatever upgrade you won’t want the old school transmission anyways. So be up front please. I don’t mind donating the proper transmission to you but I don’t want to make efforts I don’t have to. I’m old now. Wagon is sitting fairly stripped but I do still have all four doors. The hatch I think is still up there and I’ll likely let that go with it but just want to check before I say it definitely goes. Hood has been removed but I’ll haul it back there with the doors as long as I get a serious NON SCRAPPER committed. No engine in car. I have some if you want an old school 1600. We’ll deal with that after. No engine included but I’m very fair on price if you want one. No interior. And the dashboard is gone. At least one of the front seats is also gone. I have the rear upper and lower that came from it. Ceiling liner is there and last I saw it was near perfect. Bumpers are also off and not likely to return. Front wheels are off, and you’ll almost certainly want a trailer to haul this. The rear wheels are in it for now. It could easily be front lifted and dragged into a trailer. Again if you’re going to upgrade I’d like get the rear wheels and drivetrain back from you after you’ve got it home. Norwich CT up the street from the casino about a mile. Pretty easy to get to. So to recap you’d definitely get a wagon , four loose doors, one loose hood all of which came from that car, and likely the rear hatch too. No engine and only a swapped transmission if you let me know you want one. Rear of drivetrain is staying as well but if you don’t need it for your project I’d like the axles and wagon wheels.

Try the spray test on those hoses? While it’s running spray some WD-40 around the vacuum hose ends all over until you notice a change in idle. No funky smoke from the tailpipe ? A little white? A little black ? Normal ?

That should not affect timing. You’re sure you have an identical match on the alternator ? Coil may be loosing its life.

Glad you’re on the mainland, Larry. Don’t think I need anything right now but as always it’s great that you’re there for us diehard old Subaru owners. Tip of the hat. Cheers!

Good luck with it. I hope you keep that momentum rolling forward. Most inspirational.

Ignition timing advance from the weights expanding etc inside the distributor. But yes there’s also the difference of the vacuum ports. What I’m getting at is folks had appreciated that ignition curve advance from the different distributor. Wish I had that crisp memory of which and why but maybe the archives might hold some info. But just reverting to stock it won’t mean much. There might be wiring diagrams online. Or they’re definitely in the back of all factory service manuals. I sold off my 80s but they’re cheap enough usually.

Maybe swapped for the advance curve. That was a bit of a thing to do for some. I’m not positive that applies to yours but i seem to recall the automatics had a better advance curve and maybe FWD different from 4wd ? I would have to check a parts manual. But that was my only thought on why they swapped it out. My 79 4wd wagon was swapped out with a FWD complete engine and exhaust. So i had to decipher that at one point due to ignition parts. Same deal it’s Hitachi or ND. Good luck with it.

I’ll look for you as I go through my stash. Pretty sure there’s one there. But as mentioned going forward parts availability. Forget originality just make it run and not be a hunt and wallet drain for parts. good luck, I’m a big fan of that engine and have at least two or more but they’re for vintage projects. So all my engine and related parts I don’t really want to sell. But in this case if I have that bracket I’ll let one go cheap.

Contact me if interested. Message here or email me at moosens@yahoo.com Brown, northeast car so it’s got its spots of rot. But overall solid enough to have fun with and run for many more years. Could be repaired by the right person. This car has already been stripped pretty well. But I will return the doors and hood, and I think maybe the rear hatch but I’m not sure about that. Car will needs fenders. I think I have the brown one still. We can talk about that. Maybe another $50 and I’d be happy. Currently only on rear wheels. Not really sure what I’ll leave on it so be sure you are coming with a flatbed or trailer. Again, assuming you’re upgrading and won’t need this stuff, and if you’re going original this is the last year of U-Joint axles so you’d likely want to go with 79 and later years axles. This car may come with some extra parts beyond the shell. All depends on what the taker is doing with it. If you’re SURE you’re going to keep it mostly original I can help you out. BUT - the transmission in this car stays with me. Engine already out and used. Doors are very solid and lower edges really nice considering they’re from up here. Plenty of info and pics if you’re serious. It’s fairly cheap already but if actually come through and soon before winter I’ll make the deal super sweet.

Their yard in Roxbury is wild. Ever been there? I might be up there this week.

Larry, it’s tough around here. Too many lawyers. Most places don’t let you walk around anymore. You guys enjoy what you have ! Tom, there’s always F&S. If it’s older than 20 years just talk with one of the guys in the Roxbury yard like Jeff. Not sure about Johnny’s in Thomaston, i think it’s changed hands but that was another good yard where he would let you walk around. Which place do you go to? LaJoie’s?

These guys and maybe Emily too, they’ll know more and be more than myself but a few items mentioned I can’t help but comment on. Bolt holes should have been super cleaned and same for bolts. I seem to recall you did use a thread chaser. But it’s not going to get easier going forward. If your heart is going to let your wallet solve problems on an EA82 in 2025/2026 it’ll get pricey and limited with who will take on such work. I’d give it another try but only after each and every bolt and its hole are cleaned and inspected for fit. Also my opinion - you likely started it up when you shouldn’t have. And i would take the heads off and be sure coolant isn’t where it shouldn’t be. Take a breath, you’ll have it back in action. You have to assess that O ring fitment. I know sometimes they look off but consider the sqaush down. FujiBond or equiv. should cure of course. You’ll need to see what that happened. Maybe had a solvent wipe-down that seeped in? Oil pan, i would try to reuse it if it came off like i expect it would having not been roasted. If not then they should be available or use sealant. Lots of is have used sealant only. Or a light smear behind the cork gasket. You’re still at a good age so enjoy that exercise, learning, and building speed and proficiency. And should you find yourself defeated after your efforts - find yourself and EJ22 - last resort, i know. I’m of the same skull density cult. Cheers !

Enjoy the venture! Many of us, the few still left here after the great FB saturation, have turned the pages on the EA82 era. Lucky for you i think there’s a current active member with a wealth of EA82 experience. I sure had mine, but i’m pretty much a user and abuser a backyard mechanic. Don’t be afraid to attack that heater unit. Pretty sure i did a write up on removing the dashboard and heater or accessing it for the core swap. That will also allow duct cleaning, flapper door re-foaming, general bleach n water wipedown, let it sit and do it a second time some would say.

Ahh, no holes. Sorry, dealing with too many later models here. Yikes! Yeah not much else other than what you mentioned. Remove the brake adjuster nuts and let it float inside while you strike a drift against the backside of the drum. This draws a memory. Good luck. Let us know how you tricked it into removing itself.