moosens

Lastly , brake lines and the passenger side floor/sill.

Nah , I vote to clean it up proper , including removal of the “jerk” decal. Seriously , I can see your left fender about to burst with rust at the top. This is VERY common. You want to take the time and remove the both of them and clean and prep as best as you can paying attention to shedding water. Subaru put a foam strip in there to reduce vibration noise. That acted as a sponge - Not Good - and even the “no rust zone” cars suffer this malady. Also , being a GF you have a 5spd. Consider this a minor treasure. Pretty sure there’s several of us here who would be really upset if you started messing around with this car and taking it away from originality. Not that we matter , but hoping you’ll see some light and make your own conclusion. While we’re at it , you also want to immediately remove the cowl ( that grill thing in front of the front windshield ) and get down in there and remove any pine needles , leaves , etc. Right down to the paint and/or rusting metal. This is the second MUST GET TO area. If you see that any paint is gone proceed to look for pinholes using a flashlight or daylight while you are inside with the carpet pulled back looking all around under the dash especially on the passenger side. Then go around each wheel well and inspect for rust where the tires throw the slop around. Enjoy it !

After looking better at your pics I have to speak my piece. It’s only that original once. You’ve found something others would cherish. So before you kill that aspect of it , consider throwing it out there for sale and make some money to put towards a true project car. You’re choice , enjoy it either way.

The Mississippi Meteor sure looks cool with the rack , rust , and Gulf color. gfdan , I hope you’ll leave it stock too. 2.2 as a last resort. The 1600’s are reliable and can give you enough GO to be happy enough. It’s obviously not going to be a really cool and fast car. But you can enjoy it being cool.

Takes about one to two minutes to remove the door skin and I’m pretty sure you’ll see what I’m talking about. Your last statement didn’t make too much sense to me. Do the 95-99’s lock from either side ? To me there’s only one switch capable of locking/unlocking the other doors. The drivers. Sorry if I didn’t see something. I do own a 97 but haven’t touched it yet as there is work to do first. So I’m not really used to the 95-99 controls.

Alright Jerry , would be great to meet you too. I want to get up to the Cascades if I have the time.

Sometimes you can still use the little plastic clevis but if it’s trashed either locate one in the “Help” section at your chain parts store , or rig up what you can as I did. Used a wire tie because mine only needed to slide up and down. You’ll see. Small hands , lol , seriously it’s not too easy so be patient. Enjoy

The throw link popped off. Take your door skin off and get small hands.

Thanks to all the folks who sit around and say “we have to get old moosey out here”. !!!! Yes I sure am looking forward to finally getting out to the other Subaru corner of the USA !!!! Let’s see what else this year brings. But man I sure do want to hit your big meet WCSS. And more than that I really want to finally meet up with those cool rump roast folks I’ve gotten to know over these last TWO DECADES ! Holy chit ! Hoping this is the year. Cheers ! Paul

Your Legacy was assembled in the USA. So maybe it needs a little more Japanese. The experts will chime in when they wake up , but to me it seems your ecu has selected a default setting. ***** In no way am I an expert here ****** Just my first thought. I’d also check the coil pack for slight cracks , although you didn’t mention and stalling and rough running. Nice here in New England this time of year , eh ?

Merry Christmas , Larry and all. And a Happy New Year. Good man for drumming up some dough. I’ll get my arse in gear after the holidays. Cheers !

Jack , just get what you want and enjoy it and don’t cry so much at the end of the fun. Tar , oil , all sorts of cheap and effective methods. My uncles 69 Ford pick up with full metal tool boxes and 60’s tubular steel ladder rack is still in very nice shape from his light oil treatments. Parked over dirt with light gravel. So , it can be done with diligence. My 78 was given Zeibart rust proofing - tar like - and worked really great. So that gave the car 35+ years here in salty CT. Just this past year I’m finally giving up on it , but could still be kept alive. It’s in the north east corner of CT if you’re curious. I used mine hard during winters. Screw what anybody says. It’s yours. These vehicles were made for snow fun.

Ahh , the story of Skip buying my Brat and going over the Appalachian mountains on the down hill side and the throttle stuck open. Same as above. Melted black plastic.

Time-serts is one name. Pricey but I have used them. Drill , countersink , insert , stake , done.

On the early Legacys is underside on the passenger side.

Sorry , you said it appears to be seated. I read around that. Lol

One other physical item would be to check the linkage underside. There’s a turnbuckle that can be adjusted for throw. But of course it was working fine up to now. Outside chance something jammed in there. Not much effort to take a peek. Have the wheels chocked.

Here in the States I think that was the last year of the dual range. I probably have a couple dozen posts exclaiming my love for that transmission. Lol Enjoy it ! As mentioned above , don’t skimp out and buy cheap crap seals etc. Do the kit as mentioned and have peace of mind going forward. Careful on the “Mickey Mouse” oil pump seal and O-ring that they stay in place as you install. A little grease is suggested to hold them.

On another note , my son is due home for the holidays and we might hit the Barrens. Probably have to borrow my wife’s car and go gentle. Let me know if you’re up for getting together , probably the weekend before Christmas. Cheers, Paul

How much is the yard asking ? I’m thinking what you said , put it together first and see if they’ll even be worth putting in. Plenty of sets still out there. I personally wouldn’t want to be in the bed with an STi power source. Leave them out. Lol

Did you want Jumpseats ? Just curious. I have some up here in CT.

Factory service manuals with wiring diagrams online. I even have the good old paper version. Let me know if you want one. I don’t have a working scanner these days. The fuse box itself , and it’s grounding , can often be an issue. Fuses can look good but when removed you’ll find they can be pulled apart as they have separated but when in place look fine. Just a couple of things to consider while hunting around.

It was a penny. Found its way into that “right spot”.

Coins. There could be a coin down there. Check along the bottom of the shifter with the cover off.

Easy search to see what a bad flywheel looks like. You don’t want any blueing or any minor cracks etc. You’re likely to see some light blueing. Don’t let that scare you. Just inspect well and I’m sure it’ll last until the next clutch disk. I was in a pinch at the time and reused mine at around 159k and the car now has 312k and still it’s original flywheel.