moosens

Endless possibilities. What do you want from it ? Lifted ? Go off roading ? Lower and look pimp ( my apologies ) , go faster ? Stay close to stock ? The “if I had your money I’d ....” thread. This ought to be fun. Best of luck. You have a base and money and I’m assuming youth on your side. Should be fun. Enjoy !

How much did you pay ?

And don’t sweat the timing cover gaskets. We mean the gaskets and seals for oil. Those are just to keep road grime out of the covers , and you don’t have to panic on that. Most of us just reuse what fell off when doing timing , or don’t bother. But at this point I’m advising you like you’re doing the job , which I take it you don’t feel comfortable doing. GD is right on. I’m promoting the idea of spending the money you feel you shouldn’t have to , or wish to avoid. It’s the fork in the road. Put money into this one , or move on.

To me , you’ve got the proper engine to put that money into and rightly expect another 100k easy. I own three 92-94 Legacys. And also to add to above - water pump ! Do it. Or at least reseal it and get the small elbow hose that comes off the pump. “Bypass hose” I believe it’s called. The 2.2 you have can easily attain 300k One of mine is at 314k now.

Breathe , relax , and listen to these nice folks here. To do the headgaskets , which you NEED , you’ll also be removing the “valve covers” so yes you’ll spend the little bit of $ on those and the other seals involved as well. Plus you’re going to be smart and get new timing components and cam seals and main seals. I know it’s hard to hear , and you want to scrimp and save , but this is the way to go if you want to get many many more miles out of it in comfort. More to follow.

Sweet rare bird! Enjoy!!

Thanks guys. That’s plenty enough confirmation. With my limited space and time to work I’m likely swapping out this 2.2 rather than tweak around an engine I know I sealed the dook out of just 16 months ago.

Lol , thanks

Lol , going to bring it into work and have an inspector look it over just for kicks. I’m going by our man Fairtax4me. Will order one later or tomorrow. Rubber , metal , whatever as long as it’s a name I know.

Side note. Took my a/c tensioner pulley assy off to change out the bearing and found those three mounting bolts were 13mm heads and obvious hardware store shiny metal. That made me think “wtf did I do last winter”? But I think that was my brother. Car was at his place during clutch job.

Yeah , I think they are blue , correct? Hardened crank shouldn’t do that , I agree. Just that I know I saw it mentioned. Only force I could see would be if I massively cranked the accessory belts. Even still , doesn’t really seem possible. I definitely buy at the dealer for all seals and most parts. Just drive the car 100 miles today. Other than that lovely oil on exhaust smell the car is still plenty fine enough of a commuter/beater. I’ll make time this weekend and find out what happened.

1992 EJ22 - 312k miles Just had this engine out last winter 2016/17. Needed clutch so I did a full timing and reseal - less headgaskets. When I sealed the oil pump to block I am sure the o ring stayed in place and I used “the right stuff” as a gasket maker. Very thin coating and I’ve done it before. Did not leak a drop for most of a year. Now as of this winter: Spews oil when full. Oil is at least partially coming from the oil pump area. Probably all from there and blowing back giving appearance of other leaks. Oil pan looks perfect. Heads look fine looking along the seams as best as I could see. Crank pulley ( harmonic balancer ) was new Old Stock just a year or so back. Looking at it I’d say it is still fine and is just showing the wobble that the crank end has caused. Time and weather have been tough since this occurred. So getting to verify without removing covers etc hasn’t happened. Just getting warm here now. I’ve seen folks mention that the crank end can get soft and flex at 300k or so. True ? Because I’m thinking this is what’s happening. Meanwhile like my brother asked , the crank itself seems fine , no inner noises from low end etc. This car has been with me for 11 years now and I’ve put nearly 200k on it for $1500. Had 119k , now at 312k. It’s become a friend. Lol Thanks for any help.

Scott , I can’t see the numbers on the old bearing. That’s why I’m asking since two different numbers were presented here in this thread.

If you change cables - buy new - be very careful not to by aftermarket crap with cable ends that don’t fit. This is especially fact on accelerator cables.

Seen this many many times. As mentioned by gloyale - remove and repair. “Sew” it up with a mending plate of your own design. This is a very common issue going back to the 70’s cars and as long as they use the same type of pedal box.

6203 or 6204 ? The one I removed had metal not rubber lube retainers. I’m ok with rubber if you guys have used them with great results. Thanks !

You may have gotten the wrong diameter clutch for the previous narrow case 1600’s. Small needle bearing ? The clutch disk ok for you ? Or maybe 180mm ? Yeah that’s the old school bearing. Edit

What happened to that guy named Todd who worked out of his backyard? Good luck with your search.

Lol , yeah I “could do” a lot of things. But this time around I’m keeping it simple. With my son out west I can see the rest of the family taking a healthy trip to the coast the next few years. And there’s always craigslist

Was going to , but just too much going on to easily make something happen. I’d do it if I could bring my tool box and some parts along. But you never know what’s going to happen.

Give you two guesses. The event is in which month ? Lol I don’t think I’d be spoiling anyone’s plans on the 4th of May , June , or August.

Newer folks - welcome ! Springtime is here and I’ll be continuing my clearance at storage and selling off lots of parts old and NEW from the 1970’s For those unaware there are at least two or three face book groups for older Subarus. You want to check those - especially the Classic Subaru Group 4x140 , that’s where I’m listing the majority of my parts for sale. Please don’t start asking about parts you are looking for. Please do check in and see what I’ve dragged out and listed. If you don’t get a reply from me when inquiring it means I feel you didn’t read and comprehend. It’s just too much to dig items out. You nice folks can be patient and see what the river flows your way and select as presented. Thanks for your understanding. And NO , I and NOT bringing items to WCSS. Just me. I’m the ITEM. Lol and not for sale. Cheers!

Board bump. Yeah , it’s a little tricky planning this trip. Hang in there and I’ll see you all soon enough. Various obstacles. But in general it’s now looking more like a quick trip out with full focus on the PNW. Not likely that I’m going to hit the jackpot with my plans to see the top of the country and Yellowstone. But someday. And yeah Jerry , I want to see the Cascades and hope to see you too either way at home or the show. So stinks popping dream balloons. In my mind I’m driving , touring Nat’l parks , bringing home a vintage wagon , etc etc etc. Paring it down to the basic requirements. Getting to WCSS and hanging out with some fellow ale drinking knuckleheads. At this writing it’s looking like I’d be flying into Sea-Tac sometime around the 4th. I’ll be sure to arrive at a time that doesn’t screw up your plans. So maybe the 2nd or 3rd or 5th. TBD Thanks again!

I cruise 75-80 all day in my stock 2.2 1992 Legacy Wagon here in CT. 313,000 miles and can still pass cars as needed. My wife’s 94 Legacy wagon , even better. Only 113,000 on it and rides great now that we swapped the air ride system out for stock springs. That one hits 90 with ease and you have to back off some. Good luck. Plenty of us here that can look back and see money we could have spent better.

Difference of opinion on the word upgrade. But I’m curious how it turns out so do post pics when you get it done.