moosens

Front wheel drive is fine for 99% if driving especially where you are. You did the right thing. It’s a commuter that you’ll likely get another 200k out of. Just be aware that parts are already becoming a little hard to find at times. If you’re like me and prefer to have some shelf stock I’d look into snagging a water pump , oil pump , and timing bits. For timing pulleys be sure to get quality and going cheap always results in problems down the line. Good luck with it!

Heli coils obviously worked fine , and there’s options too. In certain situations you may prefer something like I use - Timeserts. They are a bit pricey but you get what you pay for. That said you can also find simple heli coils on multi million dollar machinery. An insert allows you to bolt up and be able to remove that bold as well without any coil coming out with it. There are others but I found Timeserts to be great. Covers on , covers off - the great debate ! Lol I prefer they be on. Just spent good money on a couple New covers and seals because I expext longevity on our cars.

All door handles from Stage two 1977 thru 1979 cars work on the tailgate. They are the same. 1980 ??? That’s a new on on me.

Sounds good as long as you can. Board here isn’t what it used to be because people are retardedly giving up on message boards for face dook groups. FYI , my uncle still has his 1969 Ford Pickup here in CT - major salt/corrosive crap - due to spraying light oil underside. The big problem with our Subarus is the wheel apron has a horizontal seam which holds dirt , developed pinholes , and the water travels inside the rear quarters and settles over the wheel arch and down at the sill. With he rear wheels off , and if possible during a suspension swap , you want to treat that area if the wheel apron and tar it up or use whatever you choose. My friend just did a POR15 treatment after a good wire brushing etc. Good luck with it and enjoy your time here. Keep messageboards alive !! Cheers!

Have often driven in FWD in 80% of the year. Put the fuse in. Plenty of reading on Torque Bind out there.

Welcome , enjoy your time here. Looks like you already know about the headgaskets. Best of luck.

Front or rear ? Fwd or 4WD ?

I have several of those parts I’m sure. Just have to be patient as I’m all alone and storage is not at home. What color interior ?

Be sure to post in Historic Forum and in the Historic Marketplace. Maybe also add the same to the “Wish List” thread , which was created for when folks come across parts vehicles or a lot of old stock/hoarders.

I agree , but if times are tough or you just want to try a little DIY you can either get a carb kit , or even without one probably have no issue taking the float chamber top plate off and getting to know the float and needle. If you care to try you can get some 0000 steel wool and gently clean up the needle. It’s kind of touchy so no agressive action. At this time to can spray the area and blow it out. If you can score a fresh float and needle then go for it. Don’t forget the new gas eats old carb rubber parts and leaves more residue than old school gas it was made for. See if you can get a kit or at least the accelerator pump and it’s boot - which turns to crap at the blink of an eye. Good luck.

Easy enough to start with gently tightening the carb mounting nuts for kicks. Then remove the float chamber top. Shouldn’t have to worry about the gasket but be careful of course. Is your sight glass ok or kind of hard to see thru ?

Don’t neglect the wire clips that hold he throw out bearing in place. And that adjustment you want to start with 1/8” gap. Some might say 1/4” but to me it’s 1/8” and life begins there for hill holder balance. It sure can be a pain. And that tiny nut as well. Look for a diagram from an online manual if you can search one out.

I do have one , but if someone else can hook you up sooner go for it. What cowls I have are tucked away. I estimate I’d need at least thru this weekend before I rediscover mine.

I’ve never heard of doubling a headgasket. Most likely intake gaskets as mentioned. Cheaper to try those first. Heads shouldn’t be warped but can’t tell from here. There’s an archive of a backyard way to get slight warpage out if it comes to that and if you want to try the DIY method. To me , the vacuum of the intake is why it drank so much from the radiator. I’ve had intake gaskets go on an 1800 ohc and same thing - lost lots of coolant and sent me into a panic thinking h/g’s .

Nice going ! This should help several people down the line.

M & J , they’re big on Subarus but as I recall it’s the typical group of knucklehead “kids” doing the work. Just have to try. Theres always F & S in Waterbury - yard in Roxbury called Tom’s maybe you knew that. They’re pricey and rusty. Johnny’s in Thomaston is a good yard too , up in the sticks. Lol if they have Subarus he’s pretty good about you walking thru and getting your parts. Biker/mob control along the shoreline is tough. Milford Auto Recyclers isn’t too bad once you know them. Sludge pit though after any rain. Good luck.

You’re in CT ? Rough in the western end and that hour and a half drive is kind of expected just to get to decent yards that are helpful. Eastern CT has more better yards. The guys on Rt. 85 I can’t think of - M & R or something like that just south of Colchester. They usually have plenty of older Subarus. And as mentioned , tough to say without handling the part. It’s not getting better either with older Subarus up here. We have 2-92’s and a ‘94 so most of my buying is long distance and try to deal with reputable peddlers.

So many routes off Rt.7 and also Rt. 22 in NY. Really nice riding area up there. We have some great runs using so many routes going up to Lime Rock. Staying off the main drags.

I do see Massachusetts folks on the CT group. Mostly newer cars and younger owners but sometimes interesting. I’m on the other end of the Housy sort of. Beautiful Bridgeport. Lol Still high levels up there ? GE to blame for that. Maybe others too but they were the big one.

New one on me. I’m from CT. Enjoy the Berkshires! Lots of Facebook groups out there. Maybe it’s from there.

If it’s about keeping original I can probably dig one out for you in the next few weeks.

Nice to see another classic added to the New England contingent. Welcome.

I’d say Outback , but to be sure check your VIN with a dealer over the phone and they’ll tell you. Or maybe post the begining of your VIN and other Outback owners or knowlegble sources will assist here. Just leave off the last 6 digits if your concerned about ID theft etc.

This post thread is for pre 1980 Subarus with only one exception - the first gen Brat up to ‘81. Just do your best , I’m not even sure you can remove it now , but that’s not a big deal. Enjoy the board and good luck.

Same opinion as above. Im involved with even older 1600 stuff and you see people say that absolutely can’t get this or that but there’s always a way. In your case not as difficult. Unless the engine is really showing symptoms and is embarrassing to drive then keep it going while you gather all the bits you’ll need to freshen it up. Not sure this applies but also keep in mind there are sometimes sleeve kits for the tranny main shaft. And hunt out any new Old Stock you can scrounge up like a third gear synchro. Guys like me want to see younger folks keep the torch lit. If you’re serious about keeping it a long time it is possible and not as hard as you might think as long as you have an eye to the future wear and tear. I just re-read your post. Is yours a rare automatic ? Sure have seen an EA82 in a gen two Brat , it was driven from Maine to NJ to romp around with our group and it was a multiport as I recall. As above , go EJ22 instead. If you get that manual ea81 and yours is auto. , you’ll need to swap your out going engine’s bellhousing onto the new one. couple things I’m probably forgetting but all pretty straight forward. And you can probably find good info searching archives too.