moosens

And as of today I still haven’t gotten to check the ECU connections. Thats up at the passenger side foot well , right ?

Found my FSM. Found a multi meter too. Have to make time now. Can relays click and seem good but actually be bad ? I know I can verify with my meter , but I’ll probably not have time for this car next 2-3 days. Also want to see if I can dig out any relays I may have snagged from parts cars and just switch it and see. At the pump the connector seems to have a slight burn/discoloration at one pin. It’s the lower left as you look into the connector. I’m pretty sure it was the black or black/red power source. It’s not a real obvious burn. But the other pins aren’t dirty like this one.

Thailand is where the rubber comes from if that makes you feel any better.

Thanks very much. i just noticed that the diagram I was viewing was for a 98 and not a 92. No module - as I should have already been convinced having torn through so many of these 90-94s already. The things I do when I get flustered. Should have looked twice or more at that diagram. i do have an FSM which I will surely dig out and get checking connections. I know the ECU can also get corrosion at the terminals so I’ll start there.

Tom , I already changed out the pump on this sedan so I know where the pump is. It’s in the trunk but you can access it from the back seat like I’m doing now. I’ve done several fuel pumps on EJ22 wagons and sedans. I’ve also torn down a few including removal of interior. But I’ve never noticed what the online schematic showed. It says there’s some sort of module under the center console. This car had sat longterm with a previous owner. And when we got it from the last owner ( young guy not good with cars but his friend eventually helped some) he had tried various remedies for what really amounted to lots of rust in the gas tank. So back when we got this car (couple of years at least now) I immediately changed the fuel pump. Ran great until this happened and now I’ve swapped in a new pump. Man I need to find my tester. This is a problem a guy with his own garage or even comfy place to work would have already fixed. I’m in a condo and my car is in a high traffic area so I’m trying to fix this without looking like I’m working on my car.

And just installed a new pump. It’s a Beck Arnley which I’ve always trusted. At this time I’m unable to locate and of my testers/meters. I’ll grab one later.

Won’t start. Relay clicks as it should. No action at the pump. Just looked online and I see a diagram that shows a module ? under the Center Console. I’ve never known that to be. I’ll try to copy the diagram but I had trouble doing that before.

Charlie , good luck. Same kind of situation here.

Ya know , I should have gotten my Sawzall out and cut the head like you mentioned , but I drew the line and just scrapped the block with oil pan , oil pump , and crank pulley still in great shape. Life goes on.

Yeah that was my thought but the timing area is dry. That crank bolt now is super hard to get out so I gave up. There sits a low mile oil pump behind it that would be great to have down the line. Maybe I’ll take one more shot before the scrap yard.

It was a loose crank bolt apparently , which caused the key to flex badly. Breaking the old engine down and that crank bolt of nasty bad not wanting to come out. I want to salvage that oil pump as it was new not so long ago. Brute force and ignorance will soon prevail. But that didn’t cause the rather severe oil leak it had. Really not yet seeing where it was spewing from.

Running nicely. Cheers!

Horror show , comedy , tragedy ( geez let’s hope not ) , suspense for now. Thriller later. yeah buddy !! Ill do my best to take a break and some pics. That new main timing cover - oh baby ! So sexy !!! Piece of crap old bolts holding it on. Looks like a swimsuit pinup gal in work boots.

Thanks , my thoughts too as for shorter of the two. Going to storage to dig some out. I’ll try to report back but I’ll be cranking the next 36 hours. Tazmanian Devil on the loose! Engine swap time. Gathering all the goodies and counting on a long day tomorrow. Cheers!

And I would have tried them but they are in separate locations.

I saw that I have some still lingering in a misc. nuts n bolts box. Could use some healthy ones now on my EJ22. Threads are the same I can assume. Just length and barrel size I’m concerned about. thanks!

Timing done , covers on , crank pulley on. Forgot to take the passenger side spark plugs out and clean them. Also want to add some Marvel oil or ? to help flush out the remains of any milkshake that got caught up. Otherwise ready to swap engines.

Where in CT? Subafreak would likely take them. He has my old 74 and another Stage I Wagon.

Just an update for your reading pleasure. i did get the correct sealant from a better Nissan dealer. Pan on , did the O ring on the pick up tube before closing it up. Got the passenger side rear cam O ring too. Got my timing covers and even splurged for the two large cover gaskets. Next im setting timing in place and hoping I remember to take the spark plugs out of the passenger side and squirt some ?? Marvel or something to help clear out the milkshake that poured out when turned on it’s side. I let it all drip out and the pan and cases look great. Going to hand crank it some with plugs out and then do at least one oil change immediately after first start up and quick warm up. Probably do two oil changes just to feel better. We’ll see what comes out with change no.1

Bennie , I’ll do what I can. Working from a phone only these days. But thanks. Going to do that pan later today , but only if I have a good sealant. If I can’t score the Three Bond you folks think I should use RTV or something else ? Or calm myself down and wait until my internet ordered tube comes in ?

Would be nice if my local Nissan dealer wasn’t a douche. Terrible people on the phone. Jackass says they don’t sell it. I’ve got a day to work with. But yes I’ll get some instead of Right Stuff.

These cars were never super easy going into reverse, and some people get frustrated and abusive with them. Hold pressure on the shifter while slowly letting the clutch out, and it will align the gears and drop in. - all very true

Are you confident that otherwise the clutch pedal action is sufficient ? I’d start there having had several with occasional similar issues. If you haven’t experienced pedal box failure you likely soon will. Check the pedal box at the clutch side. You may find a crack which has the thin sheet metal flexing and causing just enough disturbance to just show up with reverse , for now. If that’s the case it’ll get worse. And you can buy cable after cable.

Picture test. https://imageshack.com/i/pnJvq6r2j Nothing special , sorry.

It’s all about the seams in the wheel aprons. Protect those horizontal seams with your favorite type of tar etc. That’s how the rust starts - from the inside of the car , not the outside. Enjoy the weekend!