moosens

Good to know. Took the oil pump off and the O ring had gotten a kink in it but was in place. The previous pump seal had the same “D” shape deformation in its O ring , and mine had done the same. Removed all the goop and started over. Happy now. Water pump on - my one weak llink here using a Chinese pump - sorry , but it was sitting on my shelf paid for and I can always suck it up if it fails early as we all expect.

They turn out. Or at least when they will allow you to turn them out. I’ve got a set of new for 70’s which are probably the same as 80’s

Thanks. I’ll just use the right stuff. I’ve got one bottle going and another I haven’t opened yet. I see that new pans aren’t too pricey. I’ve got a little time so I’ll drop the existing pan and decide. Somewhere in all my crap might be an NOS pan. I know I had one once but might have used it already.

Ok , I guess I had that wrong. I guess all those blueish O rings I’ve used were of lesser quality ? Never had an issue. My dealer parts guy is great and an older guy so I trust him. Talking about the oil pump O ring. So I’ll take that step backwards today and check the pump. Waggggghhhh On the near horizon I’ll be taking the show over to a friends place and place the engine on a stand so I can comfortably get the oil Pan resealed. I’ve seen and even have somewhere an oil pan gasket. Many folks say they don’t exist and only use Fuji-bond , etc. What’s your method ?

Yeah the O rings looked old school black - not the blue Viton. They also appeared slightly oversized but you can just manage to set them into their recesses and get the crossover back on before the popped. And yes , I sanded and painted that large tube which sits too close to the block. Now my paranoia is the my oil pump will chump out on me down the line because I gooped up that area of the pump that the O ring goes up against. I meant to leave that area bare and just seal the perimeter of the pump and around the bolt holes. But I got too happy and didn’t think about it until after I’d bolted up the pump. Subaru tech advises it’ll probably be fine but I’ll carry the paranoia for a while. I’m tempted to just take the pump off and inspect before I proceed with setting the timing back on.

WOW ! Man am I glad you guys told me to get those O rings!!! They would have failed sooner than later I’d guess. Easy enough on wallet , time , and bolts came out without stripping - going back n forth at first cracks saves threads. Moving along well for working in small chunks of time. Just need a fresh water pump and timing. Thanks again! Cheers!

Another fine effort Larry. You’re very kind to our community. Thanks man ! Readers , Larry is great for parts! Just got another order supplied. Parts look great , and prices great too.

Ok thanks again.

Thanks. Tough to look at.

This is an engine I have out and will be replacing my daily driver’s with. Same engine as my other current post(s).

On my first edition 2.2 the upper edge of the headgaskets took some abuse from debris and moisture sitting atop the engine. Those little areas of exposed gasket at the top of the heads have gotten soft , rusty looking , and you can even see how the rust weakened the gasket to the point that it’s brittle. Just curious if seepage causes them to degrade.

Yes , already removed , sanded , and painted the tubes after inspecting them. The large tube which sits lowest and gathers more debris around it , is pitted. I’m hoping my painting it repels enough moisture that it doesn’t rot any further. Once it’s installed it’ll never get dirty like it the way it came to me. Thanks for the advice. Always always always Subaru seals and gaskets. For those keeping score I’ve got the rear side done - main , cam cap seal , and separator plate. Yes , I’ll get the O ring for the passenger side rear cam. Took the water pump off and the impeller was awful rusty looking so I’m going with the one from my existing engine , or a new one I have laying around. Thanks again. I’m sure Subafreak appreciates my not texting him with all the questions. Lol

And lastly , when I removed the intake it sure looked like there were no gaskets under it. Was I just a little blind and need to look closer? Thanks !

Secondly , those two tubes for the heater box. Anyone ever have those get pinholes from rust? The engine I got had some leaves and grime built up around it. I inspected it , sanded and painted it. Normally I’d just use my existing engine’s heater tubes. But I really need to have this engine buttoned up and ready to quick swap. I won’t have time for repairs like this. I don’t have a garage and I’m borrowing space at a friend's and it’s got to be a one day deal to do the engine swap.

Under the intake there is the coolant crossover as well as the two heater exchange tubes. Firstly , I’ve got the intake off and am resealing the engine. Should I bother with that crossover duct ? Looks nice and tight and dry. Are there gaskets under it?? Be right back

Lol , I see all of face dook as a mess ! Couldn’t agree more. My old postings are probably there way way down the run now. You’d have to scroll down to last year for actual parts I had out. This spring I posted a teaser to remind folks I’ll be posting items for sale again. And I’ve failed to have time and weather on my side to follow up. This time around I’ll do my best to post here too. It’s a great board and Shawn does a great job of running this , but the provider has made posting pics here more difficult. Face Dook is one easy way to get pics up to a dedicated audience.

Your side mirror looks great , but also not a Subaru item. Keep yours for now because the Subaru plastic mirrors turn to crap.

You mean the access door , not the tanks itself. Tanks are the same. The lock was optional. Most are going to have the twist knob. Keep an eye open. I’m cleaning out storage. Have lots of 70’s parts including 74 Sport Mags and a lot of new old stock small items.

Look at old brochures. The 78 should be black trim. I know , I own one. And just a couple years ago sold my 79 , which was not black trim. Not a big deal , just pointing out Incase that’s important to you. Going forward if you even have a Brat that’s good enough. It being correct is a far second. In 1980 maybe the dealer did put the curved spokes on , that’s possible. They were then issued for the 4WD wagons , but may have been put on Brats to. In general a 78-79 Brat has flat spokes and many of us assume the remainder of that body style should carry flat spokes. You can always paint it and improve upon it. But you only get one shot at riding it in original form. You should cherish that opportunity. Enjoy!

What town are you in ? How far from I-95?

Sorry , I see it’s an 80. So you probably have a GL. Ignore my comment about the black paint. That’s only 78. Does the steering wheel have two or four spokes?

Just to assist you in preservation , if that’s ok with you , I’d like to point out that those wheels are curved spokes from the next generation after yours. Flat spokes would be correct. If yours is a 78 then corner lights and trim around running lights should be black , but don’t sweat that since they all lost their paint over time.

I’d be entirely content with that Brat. Best of luck with it. You’ve got a real beauty to work with. Personally , I’d cruise it just like it is for a long time. It’s a rolling timepiece. Quad light are the balls !! Congrats and enjoy !

Thanks.

Yes rare , but you’ll only get folks gah gah over the pouches if they’re not brittle etc. The hubcaps are more plentiful than the cars they go onto. But catch the right person at the right time and maybe you’ve got lunch money. No Holy Grail items there.