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moosens

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Everything posted by moosens

  1. One other physical item would be to check the linkage underside. There’s a turnbuckle that can be adjusted for throw. But of course it was working fine up to now. Outside chance something jammed in there. Not much effort to take a peek. Have the wheels chocked.
  2. Here in the States I think that was the last year of the dual range. I probably have a couple dozen posts exclaiming my love for that transmission. Lol Enjoy it ! As mentioned above , don’t skimp out and buy cheap crap seals etc. Do the kit as mentioned and have peace of mind going forward. Careful on the “Mickey Mouse” oil pump seal and O-ring that they stay in place as you install. A little grease is suggested to hold them.
  3. On another note , my son is due home for the holidays and we might hit the Barrens. Probably have to borrow my wife’s car and go gentle. Let me know if you’re up for getting together , probably the weekend before Christmas. Cheers, Paul
  4. How much is the yard asking ? I’m thinking what you said , put it together first and see if they’ll even be worth putting in. Plenty of sets still out there. I personally wouldn’t want to be in the bed with an STi power source. Leave them out. Lol
  5. Did you want Jumpseats ? Just curious. I have some up here in CT.
  6. Factory service manuals with wiring diagrams online. I even have the good old paper version. Let me know if you want one. I don’t have a working scanner these days. The fuse box itself , and it’s grounding , can often be an issue. Fuses can look good but when removed you’ll find they can be pulled apart as they have separated but when in place look fine. Just a couple of things to consider while hunting around.
  7. Coins. There could be a coin down there. Check along the bottom of the shifter with the cover off.
  8. Easy search to see what a bad flywheel looks like. You don’t want any blueing or any minor cracks etc. You’re likely to see some light blueing. Don’t let that scare you. Just inspect well and I’m sure it’ll last until the next clutch disk. I was in a pinch at the time and reused mine at around 159k and the car now has 312k and still it’s original flywheel.
  9. That’s exactly what I’m talking about. Pedal box cracks and flexes. Flywheels can usually be resurfaced but sometimes you can find a new one if desired. A little pricey but that’s life.
  10. So which year is this one? You mention in the past you’ve done a Gen 2 Aside from the clutch issues you might want to check the pedal box for cracks especially on the clutch side. And be sure you are routing the cable correctly. Yes I know you’ve done the Gen 2 before but just throwing out some info. While it’s out you want to also do the rear main seal. If this is a 90’s EJ then also do the rear cam seals. Clutch alignment tool is what you’re describing. Often comes with a clutch kit , which you should get. It will have the disk , pressure plate , probably a release bearing and alignment tool as well.
  11. I don’t recall having any problems running unleaded in the 1400’s. Probably the only Subaru engines to be concerned with in this case might be the earliest ones in the USA. The 360 ? Maybe the pre-1400 boxers too. ??
  12. Umm , I have a low miles 2.2 for sale. It’s up with Jesse - Subafreak in Canterbury. You can see it run. Send a PM and we’ll talk.
  13. My first thought is a pulley went and you’re just feeling tension on the cam. Belt pushed the cam out. Maybe the weak metal gave in. But you’ll tell us soon. Don’t buy cheap. I know money is tight but if the car is important and you need the timing belt kit many folks will suggest you do it right and try to buy dealer parts , or a better make of aftermarket. But do beware ! Names we trusted recently have now slapped their name in lesser quality parts. So research current experiences.
  14. Not sure where you are but I also saw this listing as it isn’t all too far from me and other USMB guys. I doubt you will need these but if you need some help with them let me know and maybe I can help out. But for now , just make the time. Start with basics. Remove the battery negative , drain oil , remove fans , 22mm socket and large pipe for the crank bolt , remove timing covers , and you’re on your way. Are you near CT ? With a board name like that I’d think VT lol Enjoy
  15. Try the west coast dealers for older cars. Don’t waste your time with east coast or northern rust belt dealers. Good luck. If you want names I’m sure you’ll be seeing many. Subarupartsforyou is our local and generally good guys. Just not able to easily assist with any older parts.
  16. Ok yes they are pot metal , sorry , I meant the outer plastic is what you get and no others. Several of us probably have an extra.
  17. What color do you need ? There are no metal versions. Just get another one.
  18. PRP has new windshield gaskets. And I have one new one left too. Ours ( the USMB Group ) were made the same time their batch was.
  19. Either that or from under the cowl. See that cowl in front of your windshield ? Take it off and clean out any debris down in there. Then determine if you have any pinholes thru the rusty areas.
  20. Oh man how I wish I were in Alaska. I’m stuck in hell - working class in Connecticut????
  21. Reverse flush available to you ? Grab a fresh thermostat , some new Anti-freeze , and hit the place that does flushes. Not a bad idea no matter what the cause. If need be I can tell you the dashboards come out pretty easy , but I haven’t changed a heater core yet. I have one sitting waiting for a fail but so far still getting great heat.
  22. I’m in CT and have radiators , even refurbished old school looking like new , and more parts too. Make a list and send it to me using the private message here , and/or post your list here and in the Wish List thread
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