moosens

There you go. Ignore my post in the other thread. Just not my preference.

I think you have that backwards. Old days without an engine crane we would have one guy on either head and lift the early EA engines out without too much trouble. Of course having a crane helps. Harbor Fright - I was a sucker but I've had no complaints for like $99 or so. But if you don't have that money right now and don't have the strong back buddy I guess you could drop it all down but I'm not one to do it that way. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. You'll want to do your rear main seal too while it's exposed. Good luck.

Pretty sure I've got a factory service manual for the main line that could help you. Probably can find one online to peek at. There is a Brat Supplement manual but for what you're doing now the standard FSM will have your wiring diagram , etc.

There's a bunch to go over but try taking that fuse out and pull on both ends. I've had several do that - look perfect but have been shorted under the cap and the cap be loose enough that it'll pull off easily. Hoping it's that silly for you.

When I get to it I know I have a complete heater box that has all the links on it. The only other links are the thin ones from the selector levers. Has to be gen two for brats to have vacuum actuated controls.

Right but it caused my phone internet to start doing the boogaloo. My apologies if it's my phone.

That was some b/s I just went through clicking on your link. Wtf ?

pardon the double post that was here

Thanks ! Yeah I got that one out and it fell into hell. Too hot ! Turn it down !!

Ahh , thought I remember using a right angle Phillips. Can also remember struggling but getting them with a stubby Phillips. Back in the Loyale days. Thanks ! One thing though. I could swear when I looked in there I saw Four Phillip screws to the ceiling of that compartment. That got me scared. Lol I'll find out when the heat moves on if those two rear screws go thru the faceplate , but I tend to think not. Getting old ! Damn ....

Sorry to ask. I've actually done this stuff before which makes it even harder to ask. Blame it on the heat. I just couldn't suffer anymore and figured I'd give the USMB a try. So , I clearly see the two screws atop of the faceplate where the cup holder is. What else is holding that faceplate on ? In calmer times I would have it done. But it's super hot up here and no a/c and no real shade either so I bailed out. Forgive me !! Lol This unit in the car has the stash pocket below the radio. The one going in is the same style. All I need is a refresher on where those other Phillip screws are. Pulled the ashtray - saw nothing there. I saw one way deep in the back , centered. I took it out and naturally it fell down inside there. Got frustrated and packed it up with much sweat on the brow. Stay cool , and thanks for any help.

Barely any 1300's around let alone an 1100. I know of one 1100 in my state but it's not leaving the owner. There have been several of us who have found lots of NOS over the last couple of decades. I know in our find we have some 1100 pieces , but I can't be sure there are main bearings , valves , pistons and rings etc. I do have many of the shims for the cylinder liners and very little else. All that I have is buried at storage and I'm going thru it all as best as I can. So I'll keep you in mind since you may be the last guy running an 1100 of that era. Best of luck.

Also , when you put it back together be aware that it's best to fill the radiator as much as you can thru the big hole , but bleed the air out and top it off thru the small hole with the square head (black plastic) on the passenger side of the radiator as you run it of course.

Some great advice there but I'll offer some more. Agreed - leave he headgaskets alone. If you can borrow or score a compression reader you'll feel more comfy , or know you do need to do them. Most likely leave them alone. Agreed on the axles too. I just did everything you are about to do on both an automatic and standard. Saved the originals to work on but did install store brand knowing how sucky they can be. Not much spare time here right now. I have had pulleys explode. And they squeaked before it happened. Sold to me as a noisy clutch , it actually did get quiet when depressing the clutch pedal but that was deceiving. A couple weeks later that pulley exploded and took out some timing covers etc etc ..... With the engine out you want to make sure you put in a new rear main seal - Subaru brown if possible - and check that access plate which is also called an oil separator plate. If plastic , replace it. Someone here said the aluminum one is ok but not as good as the steel. Yes , three versions. They're around $28-34 new and I have one I don't need with the screws. I think you are doing the right thing. Just yank that engine and do as much as you can and can afford. For sure valve/rocker cover gaskets with the bolt grommets. Clean the grime off as best as you can BEFORE taking the covers off. Not lazy like me. Lol You'll do fine - tear into it - we're all here to help if needed. Cheers !

Can send pics , but it's a sweet as new remanufactured alternator for the late 70's Subarus. Let's avoid eBay and fees - help this old man clean house of his vintage Subaru excess. Ships from 06604 thereabouts , probably need a solid $25 shipping , would like to get at least $20 for the unit - start searching now - and for $45 you'd have your next alternator at your doorstep. Everything you'd expect. Looks new , ready to go. In store box like you'd get at your local. Remy - done in USA back when people cared - the unit has the Fiji/Subaru marking in the case. It's a real rebuild of an original unit.

Does it have steel wheels or the white flat spokes or ??? I've got several varieties of centercaps and probably some 72-77 large bolt on wheel covers that might not be Brat , but vintage cool. Lol

And also can get the install tool. Not really needed , but if you found one free or cheap it's a nice helper I hear. Enjoy the 79 !

Pardon my ignorance but if it's a Brat/Brumby does it even have a cams ? Stateside we had OHV engines only in that vehicle. Kiwi - dive into it man ! Everything you need to know is here. Take the engine out , it's easy enough. Do it right , you have a high interest ride that is appreciating all around if you keep it healthy.

There is a black plastic flying saucer or top hat looking piece upstream of the carb. It's on the drivers side. That little beast breaks apart and small pieces of that black plastic have gotten lodged in the carb. We can laugh now , but Skip probably wanted to choke me after he drove my old 86 Brat back home after purchasing it from me. Well , he's going up and over the Appalachian mountains and the carb sticks open as he is heading downhill. That's the story. Go check that part and be careful as you remove the hoses. Also check the metal flaps on that other part I can't think of right now. It is metal and has four Philip screws you remove to expose the valve (metal flaps). Those also sometimes break apart and you want to check it anyways. That has the hard metal tubes going to and from it. Good luck.

Reach that moment in life and I'll find I'm suddenly 80 years old.

Time to burn ...... lol Ok it was just a thought , lol Cheers !

Like dental work ! Nice job Jim. Nice car meet up in North Salem NY these days if you ever get that old 360 out on a Sunday. First Sunday every month. Hayfields Market/coffee shop. No Caffeine and Carbs this year. Cheers!

Bubba , looks like a good project you have there. Now that Martha doesn't own it anymore it should be a great little buggy. Where NB mentioned for sure. All early Subarus suffered that area. Don't be afraid to remove your dashboard. Another area is the front fenders up top. You might want to take those off and remove any foam tape stuff you might see. Subaru put that there for squeak suppression. But it holds water and rusts those fender tops even in dry climates. I just parked my old 78 4WD wagon probably for life now. The brake lines were a big issue. Protect them as best as you can. Good luck.

Any late 70's switch will work.

Thanks Gary. I just found out these last hours that a guy I work with has a donor Legacy AWD wagon same generation that is sitting just waiting for someone like me to pick from it. Normally I would experiment and try any one of what was presented , but I'm just going for the straight swap. Back in the ancient days I recall people using the compressor for an air hose for filling tires. Can that happen with this system as well?