moosens

Also , when you put it back together be aware that it's best to fill the radiator as much as you can thru the big hole , but bleed the air out and top it off thru the small hole with the square head (black plastic) on the passenger side of the radiator as you run it of course.

Some great advice there but I'll offer some more. Agreed - leave he headgaskets alone. If you can borrow or score a compression reader you'll feel more comfy , or know you do need to do them. Most likely leave them alone. Agreed on the axles too. I just did everything you are about to do on both an automatic and standard. Saved the originals to work on but did install store brand knowing how sucky they can be. Not much spare time here right now. I have had pulleys explode. And they squeaked before it happened. Sold to me as a noisy clutch , it actually did get quiet when depressing the clutch pedal but that was deceiving. A couple weeks later that pulley exploded and took out some timing covers etc etc ..... With the engine out you want to make sure you put in a new rear main seal - Subaru brown if possible - and check that access plate which is also called an oil separator plate. If plastic , replace it. Someone here said the aluminum one is ok but not as good as the steel. Yes , three versions. They're around $28-34 new and I have one I don't need with the screws. I think you are doing the right thing. Just yank that engine and do as much as you can and can afford. For sure valve/rocker cover gaskets with the bolt grommets. Clean the grime off as best as you can BEFORE taking the covers off. Not lazy like me. Lol You'll do fine - tear into it - we're all here to help if needed. Cheers !

Can send pics , but it's a sweet as new remanufactured alternator for the late 70's Subarus. Let's avoid eBay and fees - help this old man clean house of his vintage Subaru excess. Ships from 06604 thereabouts , probably need a solid $25 shipping , would like to get at least $20 for the unit - start searching now - and for $45 you'd have your next alternator at your doorstep. Everything you'd expect. Looks new , ready to go. In store box like you'd get at your local. Remy - done in USA back when people cared - the unit has the Fiji/Subaru marking in the case. It's a real rebuild of an original unit.

Does it have steel wheels or the white flat spokes or ??? I've got several varieties of centercaps and probably some 72-77 large bolt on wheel covers that might not be Brat , but vintage cool. Lol

And also can get the install tool. Not really needed , but if you found one free or cheap it's a nice helper I hear. Enjoy the 79 !

Pardon my ignorance but if it's a Brat/Brumby does it even have a cams ? Stateside we had OHV engines only in that vehicle. Kiwi - dive into it man ! Everything you need to know is here. Take the engine out , it's easy enough. Do it right , you have a high interest ride that is appreciating all around if you keep it healthy.

There is a black plastic flying saucer or top hat looking piece upstream of the carb. It's on the drivers side. That little beast breaks apart and small pieces of that black plastic have gotten lodged in the carb. We can laugh now , but Skip probably wanted to choke me after he drove my old 86 Brat back home after purchasing it from me. Well , he's going up and over the Appalachian mountains and the carb sticks open as he is heading downhill. That's the story. Go check that part and be careful as you remove the hoses. Also check the metal flaps on that other part I can't think of right now. It is metal and has four Philip screws you remove to expose the valve (metal flaps). Those also sometimes break apart and you want to check it anyways. That has the hard metal tubes going to and from it. Good luck.

Reach that moment in life and I'll find I'm suddenly 80 years old.

Time to burn ...... lol Ok it was just a thought , lol Cheers !

Like dental work ! Nice job Jim. Nice car meet up in North Salem NY these days if you ever get that old 360 out on a Sunday. First Sunday every month. Hayfields Market/coffee shop. No Caffeine and Carbs this year. Cheers!

Bubba , looks like a good project you have there. Now that Martha doesn't own it anymore it should be a great little buggy. Where NB mentioned for sure. All early Subarus suffered that area. Don't be afraid to remove your dashboard. Another area is the front fenders up top. You might want to take those off and remove any foam tape stuff you might see. Subaru put that there for squeak suppression. But it holds water and rusts those fender tops even in dry climates. I just parked my old 78 4WD wagon probably for life now. The brake lines were a big issue. Protect them as best as you can. Good luck.

Any late 70's switch will work.

Thanks Gary. I just found out these last hours that a guy I work with has a donor Legacy AWD wagon same generation that is sitting just waiting for someone like me to pick from it. Normally I would experiment and try any one of what was presented , but I'm just going for the straight swap. Back in the ancient days I recall people using the compressor for an air hose for filling tires. Can that happen with this system as well?

Thanks ! Bummer is the lack of anything pre-95 around here. 95-99's getting scarce as well.

Don't want lift. Using phone only currently , tough to find what people think exists here. Not saying those posts aren't there but searching as I can I'm not finding them. Cars is a 94 Legacy , most air ride posts I saw were XT. So as I'm reading GD's post again I'm wondering about those rears. Seems like you're telling me I can use the tops from the air ride units. Yes ? But I'm trying to avoid extra work so I'm seeking out drop in units complete. I'll try to check cars101 meanwhile.

"The Right Stuff" has worked perfectly on my oil pumps for two cars at least and probably 200,000 miles between those cars. Subafreak advised me and he is a Subaru Tech. Yes , Fuji bond is great too. But you can save some money and I attest that it'll work.

Cool , thanks Tommy.

Nope never read it.

1994 Legacy Ti AWD wagon ( alpine sport) What I mean to ask is can I use the next generation 95-99 wagon suspension ? Or does it have to be 90-94 only ? Thanks

Yeah , check that float adjustment however Weber intends you do that. The issue with the leaky accelerator boots is the modern fuel causing them to melt , crack , and fail. I'm not sure if yours has a more modern material but I know from using old stock carb rebuild kits that even a fresh boot will fail way more quickly than you'd like it to. Just stuff to keep an eye on. keep it going ! Cheers!

Float bowl look ok thru the sight glass ? Accelerator pump boot leaky ?

Outstanding ! Thanks very much. I ended up cutting the corroded connectors off and spliced the wires. Then I taped it all tight , then duct taped it over all. The leaky sunroof has to be the culprit. Rear drivers side floor is soaked. Next up - seal up that pesky sunroof. Thanks again GD.

Car only has 97k on it but did sit in a garage much of its life and probably a long stretch before last fall going unused. Checked the fusible links and relays and fuses. My obvious engine harness grounds are all looking good and I will go over them again. Where should I look otherwise ? Have to double check but I'm pretty sure no switches are working at all. And yes I'm aware of the lock button. It's not just the master switch as I can see. Thanks for any help.

Ahh , thank you. I'm pretty sure I'm going to convert to springs sometime sooner than later. But I'm not opposed to trying to salvage this system for kicks. Only 97k on it. But given its age I'd expect there to be issues with it. It raises well , lowers ok but seemed like the drivers front was sticking higher. Right now it seems level where parked. It is on a slight slope - but all corners seem about equal from tire to wheel arch.

As I knew it these models were just a Ti with graphics. Any real stand out features ? We just purchased a nice 94 with 96k and I've only seen a couple in my state. Just curious if anyone else has one. Ours has the air suspension and it's actually still working well.