moosens

Vehicle is the world famous Snow Shark , 1978 4WD Wagon. I'm going into my second winter as a no brakes knucklehead - yes the parking brake works still somewhat. I've got a blown out line somewhere around midway within the passenger side rocker panel. Any of you guys work around this or actually remove and replace ? Thanks

The Snow Shark attacked at Seaside Park just before dawn. They leave the gates open , or opened them just before I got there from the single tracks that turned around at the entrance. So it was fresh kill snow for the Shark! We made tracks and twisted and launched our way through those tracks and many more to follow. The grass at the west beach parking area was the feeding frenzy. The Shark enjoyed the exercise and meal of snow. Now wet stuff to wash it away. waaaaagh !!!

CT gathering at Pete's place. Let us know when , Pete.

Yeah Tommy , any old cars that sit , especially over dirt will cause the brake shoes to rust onto the drums. And even caliper/disk brakes , but especially our rear drums on our old cars. Heat , sledge hammer , stuff like that. Spray your best anti rust agent on there wherever you can but most likely you're going to need heat and-or the sledge. You might get lucky if the vehicle runs and the kill your clutch trying to break it free with first gear. You'll get it. You just have to suffer some , like many of us have. Cheers !

Ok thanks ! Nothing leaking as I know it , but I'll find out for sure maybe later today. I do have a fork I got from somewhere with the "AA" in the part number. Can't recall the whole p/n but if it's a match it's going in. I went dealer on the disk , plate , t/o bearing , and clips as well as a new rear main seal. Also have a new flywheel I scored cheap a while back. Thanks again! Cheers !!

Related - how about those little wire springs for the T/O bearing ? Replace? They are also only 150k old. Car is approaching 300k quickly. My best car ever. Might take it to 400k and beyond.

1992 2,2 Legacy FWD 5spd I did upgrade to the metal plate as the title says about 150k previous. Doing my clutch and rear main soon. Anybody show any signs of the upgrades needing to be resealed ? Or are they typically good beyond 150k and up ? I know , I'm spending as much time asking as it'll take to just reseal it. ;(

I'm in Bridgeport. Few other active members around CT. Your house makes me think of the Berlin Kensington area. Are in in the middle of the state ? And yes , nice Subarus !

I think after seeing your two posts I'd say just get the Crosstrek or your favorite and spend the extra to have it rust proofed properly. And then down the line of course heavy rinse cycles in the winter and always using a wand and jetting water up into the strut towers etc. With what I saw the Connecticut road treatment did to my Zeibart rust protection I advise you to then check it for any needed touch up after a few years of the original application. Shedding water. That's the key. And knowing where the catch spots are and rinsing them out. Strut towers , fuel filler necks , rear linkage meeting the body , behind front fender tails , and going further back the firewalls at the base and , once upon a time - what got in from cowls that are no longer built in. That's the nutshell history of what we've seen trying to protect these Subarus in the rust zones. Crosstrek sure is cool !!

Yeah I'm still a crawler at 53 ???? Those older folks , they've kind of been there done that , usually a good reference.

When we can't expect 10 years and or 150k from Subarus you'll have riots in the streets. Like I mentioned in your other post , just maintain and protect what they give you and you'll be happy - historically. Finding people complaining about Lemon Law issues from new Subaurs would be difficult. But they also are not making products to fully survive the road salt/treatments of winter. That's where you come in. Engine-wise , we like to think they are "bulletproof", but they'll throw us a dog every now and then. Typically the dog engines even get you 10 years and 150k.

Well put. My uncle still has his 69 Ford pick up because he oil sprayed the underside and water catch spots. As for opinions on newer Subarus also rusting I can say I live near NYC where snow and salt are every winter that I don't see the last two generations rusting yet. But I do see rust on Subarus around the 200-2004 era more so than the elder 90-94's. They are not going to make a car that lasts 20 years easily these days. Conspiracy theorist here maybe , but to me you have to look at all possibilities the company built in to the car that will cause an issue and protect your car from those construction practices. There will always be seams where rust will start. If it's like those atop of the rear strut towers then the smart thing to do is protect those seams as early as possible. If too far down the road , perhaps the latest rust stopper and then treatment.

Rust is the decider. Exhaust and wheel bearings are easy enough if you just pay the prices. Being you are now on the east coast you have a rare and interesting vehicle. Have fun with it that way. I take my well used and rough looking 1978 4wd wagon around and people love it. It's even gone into shows as requested by the folks running the shows when I visit as a spectator. Some bubbles of rust can be fixed but you want to get it solid and shedding water. It doesn't need to be perfect but must shed water from the places that rust. It's up to your heart. And that's often the problem. Lol Brains say move on IF and only IF it's too much expense to remedy it. Good luck in your decision.

The dash has a tachometer so it is BRAT and 4WD Wagon , or an upgrade for other models.

Left front turn signal Black dashboard Wagon tail lights Dual headlights in buckets - both sides Black door cards - inner panels from 79 wagon Rear wagon interior panels - over rear wheels in WAGONS Just some stuff I was able to get to. There's lots more to be shaken out but that doesn't mean more of these same parts. Can't do pics right now. Make contact and I'll get them to you. PM here or email is better - moosens at yahoo.

Yeah , it's non interference so no damage. Buy the good kit with pulleys and get another 100k out of it. I know budgets can restrict what we "think" we should do , but really you should do it right and change all pulleys , water pump too if you hadn't had it done , and reseal or replace the oil pump. While you are there you'd be foolish to not also change the front main seal (crank) and cam seals too. It'll take you all day if you've never done this but with all the write ups here you might do it in half a day or less. It's extremely painful to do any job and then realize shortly that you "should have done this or that while I was in that deep". Reseal and good belts and pulleys. Do NOT buy the bottom line crap from car parts wiz or and other cretin selling on eBay. For non factory you would do great with Gates.

I'd go with the blue you ordered. Good for you for getting them while you can. FYI I have some new old stock sets and they've been bid up over $60 for one set and easily $45 for most sets I sold. So new from SOA at $60 isn't so bad.

We had a tail light cause that issue on our 95 Impreza. Also check the wheel wells especially the passenger side for any holes. Water definitely gets flung up and into any holes in that area.

I got your PM. As I recall they are the same. Only the cars from 80-81 and going forward are different. In the process of cleaning out storage and I'm sure I have one to sell , but see if maybe Subaru3 - Todd has one more handy. Mine are buried.

Should be highly desired in Vermont and Oregon! Way cool ! Enjoy !!

Was a time when a bunch of us from this corner of the country would gather at the Barrens and hit the trails. Then over the years , some even hooked up with the Jeep gang. I'll be down there next month for the motorcycle races at NJMP. Ranger station on 206 in Atsion used to be the place to meet. Many good times had.

I've worked on the Elan. It's tight with the straight four in it. Does the Europa share the same drivetrain? Forgive my lack of investigating. I've seen that "frame" the Elan sits on and if the Europa is the same you have a real challenge.

Cool project. Always wanted one. My friend has a 67 Elan. I have no idea how you are going to make this work but I sincerely hope you do. My guess , if the boxer can work , would be that you're wanting to keep it rear wheel drive. Yes?

These was a cam shaft gear on eBay for a while.

Take what you need and run away fast. These same parts have been found and offered here and on ebay. Every time an old dealer stock shows up its all about the same items with little variance. You don't have time for more shipping on top of what you already have going on. It's nice to be nice but it's smart to be less nice in times like these. Let one of our other members take the lot - after you've gotten your needs. You and I , and a few others have already had the "thrill" of the hunt and catch. Let one of these guys get the tickle and relieve yourself of further suffering over something we would otherwise praise and glorify. That's my opinion. Good luck with it !