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moosens

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Everything posted by moosens

  1. Go 1300. Those are entirely special engines. It is when they punched out that engine to make the 1400 EA63 that they realized they screwed up and removed too much material and left the new design fickle. So personally , if I had space and time I'd tuck away the 1100 for kicks if parts show up - which they still may , but I'd run those 1300's. Once was said by some scientist that the Subaru 1300 was the most efficient engine at the time. Keep us posted please. Enjoy !
  2. 1977 4WD wagon. Stage I - the elder body style. Engine out , now sitting in a field for a few days or so but being where it is only the sun is taking life from it. The owner has to scrap it soon , like maybe this week. All parts there , engine in the cargo area. Has a push bar on it too. Check Craigslist Albuquerque , might still be up. I was just out that way but was too busy to go see it. Talked with the owner , seems like good people. He really wants it to go to someone like us.
  3. Find out what the offset is on those wheels that normally go around those calipers to be sure. Older gen owners will tell you stories of trying to put what appear to be the same size wheels on and finding the wheel hits the caliper or even rub against the outer tie rod on tight turns. Several of us ground down the tie rod enough to keep the wheel free. But that's another chapter.
  4. Hill holder - It's probably not going to be right until you set it up and try it , adjust it , and maybe then it'll be fine or keep adjusting. Try going closer to 1/8 inch on that clutch release. Or start at 1/4 but you might find yourself reducing that figure slightly. Been driving my 92 same as yours with slight bearing noise for so many miles I've lost track. Been looking for a replacement but so far so good.
  5. All very nice , but I'd appreciate it if I could check on MY post and see actual info pertaining to my request. Have a great day.
  6. Sounds great but I'm not going to yards these days here in CT. For one thing there aren't many old Subarus left up here. And I'm asking about new. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that. Good idea for many other parts of the USA Here , people replace cars quickly and the yards don't waste time on older cars.
  7. Thule 1050 series from back in the 80's , I have a set and have locking feet. But I'm in CT
  8. Nice base to work with. Pretty sure I have the gas pedal. My old 79 was the same colors as yours. It's still going out east somewhere.
  9. 79 so you have all blue seats , correct? Not black along the sides of the bottom section? The blue in the 79's is the best year. Those carpets were like turquoise , sort of. Exaggerating a little but they really had a sweet color.
  10. We have two old Legacys needing new struts. Both wagons. One FWD and one AWD. The FWD I need all Four for sure. Definitely need fresh mounts up front , probably all around. I was considering the average guy Excel-G series , does that sound fair enough for mostly smooth road , city and highway ? The AWD I might go for the next higher grade. But could easily settle for the same Excel-G's again. This car I might be able to just use the donor car fronts for some time going forward because it's a low mileage donor car. But I'm certainly buying new for the rear and require those fairly soon. Do you guys go thrifty and get the strut boots ( gaters) and bump stops and bits from different sources and different mfg's ? I see items like Monroe has a less expensive boot and seat rubbers etc. Are they decent enough or spend the money on bits with KYB ? I will unquestionably be buying all struts and top mounts KYB.
  11. Those pillar covers show up randomly. Probably sold all mine. Back in the early 80's my brother took that cover and made a hinge so it opened and behind it he put the alarm lock. Just a story , probably not much reason to do that these days with modern alarms.
  12. Got jumpseats too but I've seen a few sets recently out west and not so bad prices.
  13. Color ? Looks like a blue interior but just want to be sure. I've got some seats that might help you out. I'm in CT. Stop on over. Lol Let me get to them and take some pics and entertain offers. Have an uncracked blue dash too.
  14. Lastly , you can likely forget about the plastic chrome trim that sits in the rubber gasket. Not sure any have saved it and been able to transfer it over with real success. I also have a rear slider with a decent gasket around it. Old gasket , but not bad and I'm pretty sure those are impossible to get. Hopefully I'm wrong for the Brat folks.
  15. And expect rust around that old windshield gasket. That's a given too.
  16. You have to find every pinhole down under the cowl where the pine needles and leaves and crap accumulate. Use a light in that area while looking for pinholes of light from the interior. You're on the right track , just go 100% not 98%
  17. Try Precision Replacement Parts for the windshield gasket. They sold us two batches which were fresh made from Thailand. Please post what you paid and the availability , which I hope you ask them how many they have left for the rest of the gang. Should you strike out I might have one I can sell. No promises. I also have some fenders from good solid used to some new old stock. There's a long line. But as I get into my storage unit I'll be pulling these items out and more. I have a front valance or two as well.
  18. Aftermarket top mounts are junk. Should you actually need one or more do not waste your money on anything but dealer or KYB. I wish I had kept my originals. They were uncracked and working fine. These Chinese crap ones on my car were toast in no time at all. They look horrendous. Less than a year and they cracked. Another item on my list more earlier that expected all due to garbage I thought "could work". Bad move.
  19. Aftermarket top mounts are junk. Should you actually need one or more do not waste your money on anything but dealer or KYB. I wish I had kept my originals. They were uncracked and working fine. These Chinese crap ones on my car were toast in no time at all. They look horrendous. Less than a year and they cracked. Another item on my list more earlier that expected all due to garbage I thought "could work". Bad move.
  20. There you go. Ignore my post in the other thread. Just not my preference.
  21. I think you have that backwards. Old days without an engine crane we would have one guy on either head and lift the early EA engines out without too much trouble. Of course having a crane helps. Harbor Fright - I was a sucker but I've had no complaints for like $99 or so. But if you don't have that money right now and don't have the strong back buddy I guess you could drop it all down but I'm not one to do it that way. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. You'll want to do your rear main seal too while it's exposed. Good luck.
  22. Pretty sure I've got a factory service manual for the main line that could help you. Probably can find one online to peek at. There is a Brat Supplement manual but for what you're doing now the standard FSM will have your wiring diagram , etc.
  23. There's a bunch to go over but try taking that fuse out and pull on both ends. I've had several do that - look perfect but have been shorted under the cap and the cap be loose enough that it'll pull off easily. Hoping it's that silly for you.
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