moosens

Pardon my ignorance but you didn't have one in the brat already to follow? Or to measure one against the other? Understandable if that's the case. Things happen. Hopefully you got a good one as many aftermarket cables just bite. I think TSK is the brand Fuji used on our Subarus. Anyhow .... The sling hanger to me is very important. Rather than go through the whole deal I'll just tell you I'm pretty sure we need the cable going over the steering shaft and not under. That's the typically confusing part. And to me the sling hanger verifies that necessity. Pedal end has a small bracket that holds the cable. Take that off , hang the cable slug in the pedal end , and with keeping a little tension as to not lose the slug from the pedal , get that retainer bracket over the provided rubber cable bushing and the bracket should look snug with a lip of the rubber cable bushing showing on each side of the bracket. Once on go through the routing in reverse. Double check the bracket , slug , cable through firewall grommet (free passage and good seal so not cold breeze on toes) , then hang the sling - spring goes up to a thin sheet metal bracket , then adjust the throw.

Pardon my ignorance but you didn't have one in the brat already to follow? Or to measure one against the other? Understandable if that's the case. Things happen. Hopefully you got a good one as many aftermarket cables just bite. I think TSK is the brand Fuji used on our Subarus. Anyhow .... The sling hanger to me is very important. Rather than go through the whole deal I'll just tell you I'm pretty sure we need the cable going over the steering shaft and not under. That's the typically confusing part. And to me the sling hanger verifies that necessity. Pedal end has a small bracket that holds the cable. Take that off , hang the cable slug in the pedal end , and with keeping a little tension as to not lose the slug from the pedal , get that retainer bracket over the provided rubber cable bushing and the bracket should look snug with a lip of the rubber cable bushing showing on each side of the bracket. Once on go through the routing in reverse. Double check the bracket , slug , cable through firewall grommet (free passage and good seal so not cold breeze on toes) , then hang the sling - spring goes up to a thin sheet metal bracket , then adjust the throw.

No , sorry. Caulk might work if you keep it shut. Using the rubber tape around the rim allows for normal operation. Let us know what you use and how it worked out. Subaru sunroofs are a bit notorious with a little age to them.

Around here those type of guys are popping up more and more. Used to be just a couple in CT now there's at least 8. Checking Craigslist might not hurt too. That's where I see a few here. Stick with the dealer parts though. Shop subarupartsforyou.com or others.

I found that making a perimeter seal solved leak. I used 3M rubberized tape , sorry I don't have the product model number. There are only a few sources of sunroof leaks. We were getting just enough leakage to soak the ceiling liner in that area and were also getting damp front carpeting. Inherited this from the previous owner - friends mom - so first thing I did was check the drain holes and read about possible causes.

Didn't get to those yet. I saw them there but just didn't have enough time to take them out and strip them down.

Earl , shooting for having your seats in motion this weekend. Have to finally make things happen. Anybody local that thinks they might want to stop up and help and shop for parts is welcome. I'll be spending much of daylight as I can both days. Sunday I wrap up around 2:00pm the latest.

Yeah , the EA71 and EJ22 like the original poster said. The core of "Inexpensive and Built To Stay That Way". Cheers !

I do know I have both complete trailing arms from something 4wd late 70's and they are up front in my storage. I wanted to get a brake adjuster but the studs snapped.

I will check for you in the daytime tomorrow. They are going to be hard to find soon unless they are the same thru the next generation. Even still I know here in the rust zone they're all gone.

Crap , did I forget ?? Just too busy then too burnt out from being too busy..... And yeah , EA71 and EJ22 F the rest. Lol Cheers Hey , wow for the weather!!! Got a snow storm/blizzard thing , had a blast in the old 78 - see post in 90's forum , but it's looking like might be time for early spring. Much to do there at storage. I see Brat jump seats selling at decent numbers ,,,, ship Earl's Coupe seats , sell stuff like mad .... The usual dreams. Lol Todd , maybe tonight on my shift.

You can cut the housing on the ea81's -

I'm in need of a solid vintage ride. We'll have to talk soon. I might go with Brian's tailgate after all but lots to get settled here too. Focus - yes , focus.

Gotta be a real man to drive the old schooler!!! Lol Any candy tushy can drive a car they make today.

Yes , and they sit right near the front. You're going to see them this year , this spring , or this winter..... Have the rear upper and lower and the passenger front. They'll go Greyhound. I'll ship , you can pay when you get them. Earl my brother , I just had to pass on Brian from MT's tailgate wagons. But please keep an eye open for me for one or an early coupe or stage one 4wd wagon over the coming year(s). My son is likely going to college out west so you will eventually see me out there and I'm sure I'm dragging something back east. Cheers ! And happy frikkin new year !!

Indeed !!! Happy new year!

1100's and 1300's getting just about impossible to find. I hope somebody takes you up on the offer but I doubt there's anybody here that will. Several of us here have come across old dealer stock and there's often old 1100 and 1300 bits. Always wanted to rebuild one. I'm pretty sure one or maybe two engines are still in ctsuba's old stock but I'm not sure what's going to happen with the guy who took over his stuff after he died last year. The 1300 boxer was once explained by scientist type dudes to be the most efficient gas engine that could be produced! And they had barely any issues from overheating and head warp like the 1400 did because they removed too much material when boring to 1400 spec. An interesting and viable piece of Subaru history. Probably will go to scrap but so it goes. Good luck on the new engine. And hell yeah post pics ! Roosting ! Lol

Nothing wrong with that ???? These days the only car I have to toss around freely on icy no winter maintenance roads is my 78 wagon which itself still needs help before I can join you. But my son and his friend really want to get involved in such hooliganism , I'm sure. Lol I just got him an old lady 92 FWD Legacy sedan replacing his 99 2.2 sedan, which was AWD. That one would be fun to beat on. I'm going to further inspect it but I'm pretty sure it's not getting better with a few parts over the counter ..... Engine swap or nothing the way it looks. Anyhow ... Send me a PM thru here or email me at moosens , yahoo , you know the deal. Just put Subaru Winter Fun in the title so I don't delete it. Lol We just let go of a 96 Impreza and now it's in Subafreak's hands so it'll probably run another 20 years.

Interesting ! Jumping into the pool blind here I'll guess you are looking to get proper ignition timing. Lots of archives here. Make sure the cap is on correctly and the correct one for your distributor. Old school there are ND and Hitachi. NGK wires and plugs are top dog Making sure the cap shows #1 to the front passenger side take out spark plug #1 and hand crank the engine with a 22mm socket and put a finger over the open hole as you crank. When you feel pressure against your finger that is the compression stroke. Now you need to fine tune. Get something that won't break to go into the plug hole and using the crank - not making rotation - gently going back n forth find where the piston come to its peak of travel by watching the object you used. Once you are comfortable your there if the cap is on correctly and wires too you should start right up. Hope that's what you needed.

West Woods Rd - there are more than one. There's WW 2 and another variation. Lambert Rd. all around Skiff Mtn and Elsworth Hill area. Good luck.

You're in the best part of the state. You should be telling us not asking. Plenty of "don't get caught" spots. Skiff Mountain area. Up by the NY line Kent , Sharon , Salisbury... What are you driving ?

You ask what to buy. I would say the inexpensive and plentiful "power steering reservoir reseal kit". Catch pan made from cutting a milk jug or soda bottle helps. Remove the lines and drain it. Dismount. You'll do fine and no leaks. Do check for slight cracks while you have it exposed. Try not to stress the fittings when removing the lines. Kit has copper washers too. Have a bench or surface and break it down , very simple. Worth the effort and $19. Oil leaks - as mentioned. Don't know your level but if you have or rent/borrow and engine crane you'll probably do just fine buying the seals and metal upgrade cover and going at it. Rear main seal just a few bucks. You'll be confident of the back side at that point. You can always easily reseal the front.

Adding snapped bolts to the thread. These kits have had pulley bolts snap as well. Cheapest metal too. Second to cheapest rubber belts.

They absolutely suck. Same for car parts wiz. No line up marks on the belt !!! wTF ?? Of course we were lucky to have faint lines on the Subaru belt to transfer over.

Ahhh lovely weather for a clean out. Just bumping this up for kicks. Mostly want to get the plows moved out first. For entertainment sake feel free to search my old posts on Plows for sale. Just type in plow. Meanwhile , I don't see myself getting too lucky with a really full blown clean out at storage until springtime. Have a great Christmas or holidays and be safe. See you in the spring unless this freak weather El Niño thing hold up. Cheers !