moosens

Nothing wrong with that ???? These days the only car I have to toss around freely on icy no winter maintenance roads is my 78 wagon which itself still needs help before I can join you. But my son and his friend really want to get involved in such hooliganism , I'm sure. Lol I just got him an old lady 92 FWD Legacy sedan replacing his 99 2.2 sedan, which was AWD. That one would be fun to beat on. I'm going to further inspect it but I'm pretty sure it's not getting better with a few parts over the counter ..... Engine swap or nothing the way it looks. Anyhow ... Send me a PM thru here or email me at moosens , yahoo , you know the deal. Just put Subaru Winter Fun in the title so I don't delete it. Lol We just let go of a 96 Impreza and now it's in Subafreak's hands so it'll probably run another 20 years.

Interesting ! Jumping into the pool blind here I'll guess you are looking to get proper ignition timing. Lots of archives here. Make sure the cap is on correctly and the correct one for your distributor. Old school there are ND and Hitachi. NGK wires and plugs are top dog Making sure the cap shows #1 to the front passenger side take out spark plug #1 and hand crank the engine with a 22mm socket and put a finger over the open hole as you crank. When you feel pressure against your finger that is the compression stroke. Now you need to fine tune. Get something that won't break to go into the plug hole and using the crank - not making rotation - gently going back n forth find where the piston come to its peak of travel by watching the object you used. Once you are comfortable your there if the cap is on correctly and wires too you should start right up. Hope that's what you needed.

West Woods Rd - there are more than one. There's WW 2 and another variation. Lambert Rd. all around Skiff Mtn and Elsworth Hill area. Good luck.

You're in the best part of the state. You should be telling us not asking. Plenty of "don't get caught" spots. Skiff Mountain area. Up by the NY line Kent , Sharon , Salisbury... What are you driving ?

You ask what to buy. I would say the inexpensive and plentiful "power steering reservoir reseal kit". Catch pan made from cutting a milk jug or soda bottle helps. Remove the lines and drain it. Dismount. You'll do fine and no leaks. Do check for slight cracks while you have it exposed. Try not to stress the fittings when removing the lines. Kit has copper washers too. Have a bench or surface and break it down , very simple. Worth the effort and $19. Oil leaks - as mentioned. Don't know your level but if you have or rent/borrow and engine crane you'll probably do just fine buying the seals and metal upgrade cover and going at it. Rear main seal just a few bucks. You'll be confident of the back side at that point. You can always easily reseal the front.

Adding snapped bolts to the thread. These kits have had pulley bolts snap as well. Cheapest metal too. Second to cheapest rubber belts.

They absolutely suck. Same for car parts wiz. No line up marks on the belt !!! wTF ?? Of course we were lucky to have faint lines on the Subaru belt to transfer over.

Ahhh lovely weather for a clean out. Just bumping this up for kicks. Mostly want to get the plows moved out first. For entertainment sake feel free to search my old posts on Plows for sale. Just type in plow. Meanwhile , I don't see myself getting too lucky with a really full blown clean out at storage until springtime. Have a great Christmas or holidays and be safe. See you in the spring unless this freak weather El Niño thing hold up. Cheers !

The new Skip ! Lol Nice rig !

Take out spark plug number one up front on passenger side. Take a 22mm socket and slowly crank the engine - at the crankshaft - and with a finger over the plug hole feel for compression stroke. Double check yourself then using something that won't break like a brass drift or whatever works that's handy and slowly crank with that drift etc. in the plug hole watch for its movement outward to come to a stop. When it does don't be afraid to go back a half crank and then back up to verify. Once you're happy it's at its pinical your piston is at Top Dead Center -TDC. That's happy place number one. Now over to the distributor. With the cap off you should see the rotor facing where 1 is on the cap. If not there you need to raise the distributor out and rotate it so it eventually sits with the rotor facing correctly at number one on the cap. It's tricky at first because when you set the disty back in it'll kick over as the teeth of the gears mesh so you'll likely not get it first shot. Don't fret, you'll get it feel like a pro. The cap should have one and three on the passenger side and 2 and 4 on the drivers. I'm hoping you didn't damage the voltage regulator but maybe it's fine. Let us know how the timing was.

Enjoy it just as is. The configuration is the best for longevity in that it is powerful enough although laughable in comparison to anything EJ and beyond , and five speed FWD - all we need 98% of the driving we do. Especially now that it's Classic !!

Alternator check out ok? Also those old glass fuses can and Will fool you sometimes. Take them out and gently tug on each end and you might find one metal cap end has been loose. It happens. The fusible link on these cars is up front near the voltage regulator. It's fabric covered - two small wires about a couple inches or so long. Old school factory manual suggests we change out alternators and voltage regulators together.

Lots of info suggesting he is still owning in PA I'll pm you his name.

Geez I haven't had contact with him in a number of years now. If I come across his address I'll google him. I think it's New Alexandria , PA And he has the retirement place I assume it to be in SC somewhere. Golf carts rule there I remember that much. Lol

Ok I saw your block shows EA71 Note the existing large diameter hose and the air box inlet is a bit smaller diameter. 78's has round air boxes with the larger inlet that hose would fit perfectly on.

Hey I'm thinking that EA71 in the back was your original motor and somebody put the 80 in there. Does the block have EA81 on it up top up front I think? That's an EA81 air box. Both of them actually , as those small round cans only came with the 1800 - if my old brain is correct.

Sorry - 78-79 for two door cars and of course up to 81 for Brat. You could also get lucky searching 77 but be sure it isn't Stage I - because I'm not positive those are the same. Sure could be , but I'd check that with someone experienced in using a 72-77 regulator in a 78-81 Brat.

Search one of the parts sites for any two door from 78 up and that'll work. I really think the four doors won't work unless maybe you can disconnect the rails and swap yours into the regulator. That I've never had to try. What's the one people use for searching? Co-part? Or Car-Part? You'll find one. Probably closer than you think too.

You should have a clear view from both sides with a little squishing down and slight contortions. Press the pedal and watch the flex on the clutch side. These boxes are flimsy crap. They were still shaking off the last of the bad reputation of the early Japanese imports. Lol Enjoy the horror show. And again I'll mention it for the folks who only read the last posts - routing and suspending that clutch cable is very important or you'll eat cables and destroy pedal boxes.

If that is a 4wd 78 wagon I could use the bumper ends or whole rear bumper if it's not beaten. Those are not the square style bumpers as seen on most late 70's Subarus.

Only two door parts cars help your Brat for doors and panels.

Afterthought - you'll see the clutch cable where a small bracket retains it to the pedal box , move inward as you depress the clutch pedal. The tear in the pedal box is right there between the main pin and the clutch cable retainer. I'd bet good money that is we all got down there with a good flashlight and put our noses to it the majority would see some beginning of the problem. Going to be very common everywhere.

Couple things to add from my POV Routing that cable correctly and hanging that suspension spring from the sheet metal bracket atop the tranny is mighty important. Next , I'm going on my third pedal box at least !!! Reinforce the box any chance you can. I'm going to work one up over winter. Very limited what you can do due to pedal travel , etc. But so you and other know the typical issue is the flimsy sheit metal wants to give after much flexing and almost always at the left side near the pin the pedals ride on. Good luck to all on this issue. Follow above rule and avoid the second paragraph. Cheers!

Brian , you have my number. Call or text. Thanks

Ok so now I see the picture.... And you're left without a reason for it. Lol There's an old saying - " I've already forgotten what you haven't learned yet". And it's too true. Charlie would explain it perfectly but maybe some other old head can explain without reaching for the 1980 FSM