moosens

Thanks , and yes I’m pretty sure it’s got to be wrist pin access. I also don’t recall my parts guy selling me any seal or even speaking about it.

Thanks ! Larry , pm’d ya.

Re-sealing a 1995 2.2 for use in my 92. On the backside of the block there is the infamous oil separator on the right and a small cover on the left , which is the one in question. It has two Phillips head screws retaining it and they are socked down pretty well. If need be I’ll get a good impact and have those screws out. But maybe it’s not worth it ? Seems plenty dry there. I am of course upgrading the cheesy plastic oil separator plate and replacing the rear main and rear cam seals. Thanks for any opinions.

Early 70’s hubcaps. I’m guessing the shield was common and warm weather folks discarded them. In fact I’m sure that up here we got the shield. And the kit I have has that shield plus other hoses to collectively improve warm up during cold weather. Looks cool with an NGK sticker on it , I remember that much.

Bump for another round of exposure. I’m about to freshen up a 95 2.2 for my 92 daily driver. Just broke the old timing down and looks like all NSK bearings that are still rolling nicely , but will be replaced. It’s a $150 engine from another Subaru head.

The large plastic cover is part of a “winterize” kit. Basically a shield for the carb to keep it warm and comfy. I have NOS packet kits with that shield and several hoses etc that go with it. As I get to them I’ll try to post a pic somehow.

Anywhere near Winston Salem ?

I’m believing that anything 13” and 4WD is going to work. USA 1975–1989 , up to 94 Loyale. No idea if the first year 13” Impreza works though.

Don’t go with your subject title!!!! Spend the extra and keep rolling.

If you can’t score front rotors hang in there. I’m sure there’s some out there , and I have some in storage that I’m cleaning out - slowly - unfortunately. I need a clone or two.

You may be right that 80’s rear drums are the same. I recall Subaru3 saying that.

4WD rear drums are becoming dinosaurs. There’s one guy on eBay that occasionally lists a set for high dollars. It’s only going to get worse.

There was a great guy - Angelo - in Norwalk that was a former Subaru tech that worked out of his house off exit 16 - East Ave Haven’t seen him lately but I’m not down that way much this past decade or so.

Charlie Miller at Premier Subaru in Branford would be the only guy I know close to you. If you’re in Port Chester it’ll take you about an hour if no traffic. He’s a senior master tech. And goes back to they Loyale era. You might get lucky if you call there and ask if you can speak with him on during a break.

Well I have metal , so maybe some models or whatever got rubber. That bumper and the black piece look different than our USA models. The quad lights of course they got and we didn’t. Stage I and Stage II refer to the 1977 model year in the USA. So Stage I is 1972-1977 mid year. And Stage II is 1977 mid year - 1979

6202 was the correct size. And for those that read this far , keep in mind my Legacy is a 1992. The tensioner assy which has the three bolts in a triangular position for the 90-94 2.2 that’s the one explained here. I know you guys meant well , stuff happens. We do have a 97 Outback hoping to get on the road soon. I’ll save the 6204 for that car. Cheers

Those are not rubber. Those are metal “hide” strips for lack of the proper term. They cover the open space otherwise provided by the impact bumper. We older folks will say impact bumper because that’s the era the DOT started with shock absorbing bumpers. So they put the strip Over the bumper so if the bumper does get compressed it should do so beneath that strip and if it was a light hit possible bounce back out from the “shocks”. An eBay seller has one of those shocks on right now.

You’ll be fine. A good milk crate or something to assist propping it up while you align bolt holes. A second person too , but you’ll also want the support underneath.

Just did the same for a friend. As mentioned the door body is the same. Might see differences in power locks and heated mirror , but you’ll figure out what works easy enough. I swapped the friends inside door panel (card) over to the replacement door and found the issue of the window power line. The outgoing door had a double “tail” that went to power locks and power windows. But the new door only had a single whip there so we chose to power the window and forget the passenger side vehicle lock switch. The connectors is the same , which was nice. Enjoy!

Ok thanks. The current issue is the size. The 6204 was too large. I’ve ordered a 6202 based on OD size.

Well that bearing is too large. Maybe it’s for 95-99 Legacy ? 2.5? From the chart I’m looking at I’m guessing I actually need a 6202. The bearing I removed measured at 1 3/8” OD Working without calipers or micrometer at the moment. http://www.microbluebearings.com/bearing-size-charts/

Ya know , you’d think I’d have looked at my other two first gen Legacys and see what they have. Lol Package got to me Monday. I’ll get it going sometime this week. Thanks for the info.

Gotta throw yourself into this and make things happen. You’ll feel WAY better on the backside of things. Look how much support and advice you’ve gotten already. Make us proud ! I know money is tight , same here brother. But this is why we all knuckle bust and support each other. Gather up the $ and throw yourself into it. You’ll have a great boost in pride afterwards.

The one that came out was metal and as best as I can tell original. I went with an NTN. Was a sucker for the “German made”. Should be here next day or so. Thanks

But still man, get the guy to do it as right as he can. Take the engine out. Do the clutch and rear main seal. These cars are old , rubber old regardless of miles. “They don’t hardly ever leaks” to me means you’re about to have a leak after you put it all back together. We’re talking like $8 here. Clutch - make sure you get a new release “throw out” bearing. I just saw an NOS one listed. Get the wire clips that retain it too. Get a pilot bearing with the clutch kit too. Rent an engine crane or borrow one. Do you need guidance ? If so that’s fine. What we’re here for. If you go forward with this yourself we’ll all help with what you need and procedures. Basic tasks: Remove exhaust and move it out of he way. Remove radiator , remove intake ***** Extra caution on these bolts ****** spray them the day before with penetrant and pray. You may need to heli-coil a thread or two etc. Go slow and turn them back in a little as you turn them out very little at a time. You can set the intake aside without disconnecting much at all. Just set it on the spare tire deck. If A/C remove the mounting bracket complete and don’t have to disconnect lines , just set it up on the drivers side strut tower. My thumbs are tired. Lol you get the idea. We’ll help if you need it. Cheers!