moosens

4WD rear drums are becoming dinosaurs. There’s one guy on eBay that occasionally lists a set for high dollars. It’s only going to get worse.

There was a great guy - Angelo - in Norwalk that was a former Subaru tech that worked out of his house off exit 16 - East Ave Haven’t seen him lately but I’m not down that way much this past decade or so.

Charlie Miller at Premier Subaru in Branford would be the only guy I know close to you. If you’re in Port Chester it’ll take you about an hour if no traffic. He’s a senior master tech. And goes back to they Loyale era. You might get lucky if you call there and ask if you can speak with him on during a break.

Well I have metal , so maybe some models or whatever got rubber. That bumper and the black piece look different than our USA models. The quad lights of course they got and we didn’t. Stage I and Stage II refer to the 1977 model year in the USA. So Stage I is 1972-1977 mid year. And Stage II is 1977 mid year - 1979

6202 was the correct size. And for those that read this far , keep in mind my Legacy is a 1992. The tensioner assy which has the three bolts in a triangular position for the 90-94 2.2 that’s the one explained here. I know you guys meant well , stuff happens. We do have a 97 Outback hoping to get on the road soon. I’ll save the 6204 for that car. Cheers

Those are not rubber. Those are metal “hide” strips for lack of the proper term. They cover the open space otherwise provided by the impact bumper. We older folks will say impact bumper because that’s the era the DOT started with shock absorbing bumpers. So they put the strip Over the bumper so if the bumper does get compressed it should do so beneath that strip and if it was a light hit possible bounce back out from the “shocks”. An eBay seller has one of those shocks on right now.

You’ll be fine. A good milk crate or something to assist propping it up while you align bolt holes. A second person too , but you’ll also want the support underneath.

Just did the same for a friend. As mentioned the door body is the same. Might see differences in power locks and heated mirror , but you’ll figure out what works easy enough. I swapped the friends inside door panel (card) over to the replacement door and found the issue of the window power line. The outgoing door had a double “tail” that went to power locks and power windows. But the new door only had a single whip there so we chose to power the window and forget the passenger side vehicle lock switch. The connectors is the same , which was nice. Enjoy!

Ok thanks. The current issue is the size. The 6204 was too large. I’ve ordered a 6202 based on OD size.

Well that bearing is too large. Maybe it’s for 95-99 Legacy ? 2.5? From the chart I’m looking at I’m guessing I actually need a 6202. The bearing I removed measured at 1 3/8” OD Working without calipers or micrometer at the moment. http://www.microbluebearings.com/bearing-size-charts/

Ya know , you’d think I’d have looked at my other two first gen Legacys and see what they have. Lol Package got to me Monday. I’ll get it going sometime this week. Thanks for the info.

Gotta throw yourself into this and make things happen. You’ll feel WAY better on the backside of things. Look how much support and advice you’ve gotten already. Make us proud ! I know money is tight , same here brother. But this is why we all knuckle bust and support each other. Gather up the $ and throw yourself into it. You’ll have a great boost in pride afterwards.

The one that came out was metal and as best as I can tell original. I went with an NTN. Was a sucker for the “German made”. Should be here next day or so. Thanks

But still man, get the guy to do it as right as he can. Take the engine out. Do the clutch and rear main seal. These cars are old , rubber old regardless of miles. “They don’t hardly ever leaks” to me means you’re about to have a leak after you put it all back together. We’re talking like $8 here. Clutch - make sure you get a new release “throw out” bearing. I just saw an NOS one listed. Get the wire clips that retain it too. Get a pilot bearing with the clutch kit too. Rent an engine crane or borrow one. Do you need guidance ? If so that’s fine. What we’re here for. If you go forward with this yourself we’ll all help with what you need and procedures. Basic tasks: Remove exhaust and move it out of he way. Remove radiator , remove intake ***** Extra caution on these bolts ****** spray them the day before with penetrant and pray. You may need to heli-coil a thread or two etc. Go slow and turn them back in a little as you turn them out very little at a time. You can set the intake aside without disconnecting much at all. Just set it on the spare tire deck. If A/C remove the mounting bracket complete and don’t have to disconnect lines , just set it up on the drivers side strut tower. My thumbs are tired. Lol you get the idea. We’ll help if you need it. Cheers!

Endless possibilities. What do you want from it ? Lifted ? Go off roading ? Lower and look pimp ( my apologies ) , go faster ? Stay close to stock ? The “if I had your money I’d ....” thread. This ought to be fun. Best of luck. You have a base and money and I’m assuming youth on your side. Should be fun. Enjoy !

How much did you pay ?

And don’t sweat the timing cover gaskets. We mean the gaskets and seals for oil. Those are just to keep road grime out of the covers , and you don’t have to panic on that. Most of us just reuse what fell off when doing timing , or don’t bother. But at this point I’m advising you like you’re doing the job , which I take it you don’t feel comfortable doing. GD is right on. I’m promoting the idea of spending the money you feel you shouldn’t have to , or wish to avoid. It’s the fork in the road. Put money into this one , or move on.

To me , you’ve got the proper engine to put that money into and rightly expect another 100k easy. I own three 92-94 Legacys. And also to add to above - water pump ! Do it. Or at least reseal it and get the small elbow hose that comes off the pump. “Bypass hose” I believe it’s called. The 2.2 you have can easily attain 300k One of mine is at 314k now.

Breathe , relax , and listen to these nice folks here. To do the headgaskets , which you NEED , you’ll also be removing the “valve covers” so yes you’ll spend the little bit of $ on those and the other seals involved as well. Plus you’re going to be smart and get new timing components and cam seals and main seals. I know it’s hard to hear , and you want to scrimp and save , but this is the way to go if you want to get many many more miles out of it in comfort. More to follow.

Sweet rare bird! Enjoy!!

Thanks guys. That’s plenty enough confirmation. With my limited space and time to work I’m likely swapping out this 2.2 rather than tweak around an engine I know I sealed the dook out of just 16 months ago.

Lol , thanks

Lol , going to bring it into work and have an inspector look it over just for kicks. I’m going by our man Fairtax4me. Will order one later or tomorrow. Rubber , metal , whatever as long as it’s a name I know.

Side note. Took my a/c tensioner pulley assy off to change out the bearing and found those three mounting bolts were 13mm heads and obvious hardware store shiny metal. That made me think “wtf did I do last winter”? But I think that was my brother. Car was at his place during clutch job.

Yeah , I think they are blue , correct? Hardened crank shouldn’t do that , I agree. Just that I know I saw it mentioned. Only force I could see would be if I massively cranked the accessory belts. Even still , doesn’t really seem possible. I definitely buy at the dealer for all seals and most parts. Just drive the car 100 miles today. Other than that lovely oil on exhaust smell the car is still plenty fine enough of a commuter/beater. I’ll make time this weekend and find out what happened.