bushbasher

will rev up to around 2k, then drops down to normal. So does my dad's honda. Revving to 3k may be more than usual, but not a big deal. Driving hard and revving heigh (close to redline) is bad for a cold motor though.

the only pic I have is one of me under a sube, but all you can see is my rump roast, and I'd hate to have to bend over before anybody recognises me:-p that is if I ever end up meeting any of you.

will I be the only 6" ea82 wagon?

you can't buy a 6" lift anyways, and to me at least, R&D is half the fun.

there's a mint silver rx that I've seen around, with 13" alloys, the ground effects, and a non-stock sounding exhaust. On the side it it says "RX -The New Generation Sports Car", in dark grey and grey-blue, continuing in pinstripes to the front fender. Then below is the "full-time 4wd turbo". Very nice looking.

wow i just looked back and noticed... man, even I don't obsess over my subaru to that degree...

If you lathe it perfectly straight, then the weight balance would be the same, one side will still have the same % more weight than the other. Unless there are added weights tacked on. Just tell the mechanics that subaru parts are perfectly balanced, because they aren't cast and machined crappily like american parts are.

that car looks pretty much mint to me

so it's just the ea81s that only have mpfi with the turbo?

It's awesome! It's a mad wheeler now, except for the tires, and lack of lift My property is really muddy right now, and the tires on there like to pack full of my loamy thick mud. Didn't get the outer joints off, didn't bother heating them up, but now I know how to get them apart. I just wanted to get my diff in and drive it. My car won't be on the road till months from now, so I have plenty of time to do it.

got diff out, but still can't get axle off of outer stub. Tried hitting with hammer and rotating, but I'm worried about using heat, I don't want to cook the bearing or cv joint. Can I take apart the outer joint easily (and put it back together)?

I'll take another crack tomorrow. Now that I think about I might as well take the diff to the shop to get it migged, then there won't be as much metal beads from arc-welding to clean out of my diff. As for some ideas to make axle changes faster: replace pins with bolts and nuts? quick release front diff mount?

If there is such thing as TOO getto, that would be it

I'm trying to take out my rear diff to weld it, but I have never taken out the axles before (my first soob died too quickly). Are there stubs on the diff and hub? I thought I just have to punch out the pins behind the cv cups, and pound them off of the stubs, but so far no movement. The diff is hanging by the axles right now, so there is room for the axles to slide off of the stubs. What am I doing wrong?? I want to get fast at this too so I can pull an axle for extended road driving.

i have a delta 88 in the back yard (1976), would this likely have it?

1.) dunno about alt, but doesn't sound like a biggy, the battery will work fine for a few seconds. 2.) seal disty (silicone etc) 3.) make a snorkel air intake

my mistake, though I only had the wagons in mind.

they're all spfi or carb. mpfi is found on turbo cars only.

any wagon that looks like a loyale is gonna have an ea82 in it, if you find one with spfi you should have to deal with very little wiring, if you get a carbbed gl, and want to keep the loyale's spfi, your gonna have to be transferring wiring harnesses, sensors etc.

the clutch can't be the problem, it engages/disengages in the first few inches of travel. If you rest your foot on it it seems to slip. I think it might be on it's way out soon, at 270k km.

if they can do it, and I start getting more hours at work like I'm supposed to, and more time, to start and finish the lift and tires, I'd be into that.

Actually I think I may have seen one as a kid (at 6 years old I could name the years of every body style of corvette, I really paid attention to vehicles), but I'm not sure, i remember cool seats in the back, that's it. Aren't I an unfortunate soul?

when trying to shift quickly, the shifter often hangs and I have to wiggle it around to get it in. Is this because of slop, or because subaru wagons just aren't quick shifters? It moves around okay, a bit rubbery feeling, but from the other manual wagon I drove this seems to be normal. It does have 270k km on it.

buy his old parts off of him and pretty soon you'll have your whole brat back!

can cause the sealing surfaces to warp. Check to make sure they are straight and use the hammer like Adam says, and you could also put some of that blue liquid gasket maker stuff in to help the standard gasket. When tightening make them snug, like spark plugs should be. You don't have to put your weight into the wrench or anything.