somick

Do you happen to have a link for it? Mine is dead and I would like to get a replacement for it if it is not very expensive.

Dorman makes a lot of that kind of parts. I have bought a replacement for my Forester. Does not fit exactly but this is better than nothing. I had to make my own marks for "full" and "low" but it works. Good luck, Sam

This is true. I have been screwed by pay pal too. Never use it again.

I guess you have to repost it...

And still no response!

I believe youtuber SMA (South Main Auto) has a very good video on this bolt. Check it out. Good luck, Sam

Two dollars more will buy you Mobil1 at Walmart. Sam

See if that thread can help you. Good luck, Sam

Thanks Rampage. There is no (or I cannot find the traditional FPR). There is Fuel Pressure Solenoid. I can tell that it works fine since the fuel pressure is kept at 50 psi with very little fluctuation. Since the fuel pressure drops very fast after I remove the pinch pliers I bit the bullet and ordered a new fuel damper from the dealer for seventy dollars. It should be here soon. I am going to install it and see what is going to happen. Thanks, Sam

Thanks nvu. It does make sense. According to YouTube the FPR is located on the passenger side of the engine but I could not find it. However there is a device mounted on the driver side which has tow tubes connected to it. I will have a closer look tonight. Sam

2010 Forester non turbo with 104000 miles. I pressurized the fuel system and pinched the top hose right before the fuel damper and the fuel pressure stayed at 45 psi. When I removed the pinch pliers the fuel pressure dropped down to zero overnight. So is this my problem for hesitation and no start in the morning? On another hand the excess fuel still needs to go back to the tank during operation. So the fuel damper is probably set to let the fuel to the tank at some pressure. Am I right? Is there a way to check the fuel damper operation. It is more than fifty dollars at the dealer and I do not want to throw money away and replace unnecessary parts. Thanks, Sam

I attached my brake line to a new strut with a cable tie. So far so good. Sam

Thank you guys! I am at 104K now. So in about a month I will probably start the job. I'll let you know how it went. Sam

Funny... So I plan to buy a belt only. Amazon's price is around $70. I have not visited the dealer yet but I am going to, next week maybe. I will NOT change the water pump. We will see how lucky I am... I am also going to check the tensioner's conditions. If the pulleys do not make any noises they will stay also. Thanks, Sam

Thanks Garry! How about other components? Will the water pump survive another 100000 miles or is it better to change it now? Regards, Sam

I bought it in September of 2010. According to my calculations it will turn 108 months on September 17.

I am approaching 105000 miles on my 2010 Forester with EJ253 and looking for timing belts and components. Has anybody used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C0YRXO/?coliid=I3EXUD770J0QNG&colid=33MEMBLFIEMAN&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C0YRXO/?coliid=I3EXUD770J0QNG&colid=33MEMBLFIEMAN&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it What are your thoughts? I have used both Mitsuboshi and Dayco drive belts without any problems but will it be good for timing belts? Thank you for looking, Sam

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUNNLBY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I replaced mine a couple of months ago. It still works but now it makes some weird noise. You may want to buy a better brand. Good luck, sam

I do agree with everything said above but my main point is to prove that labelling ATF with Subaru, Honda, Toyota, etc, is a marketing trick. Well, twenty miles down the road I will add another 3.7 quarts. We well see...

I drained my ATF over this weekend and refilled it with the 3.7quarts of Valvoline MaxLife. Yesterday (Monday) I took it to work. Forty miles let me warm up the car pretty well and let me make sure the fluid level is correct. I did not experience any problems whatsoever. I do realize that I still have ruffly two thirds of the old fluid in it. I am very happy! This is another nail in the coffin of the SPECIAL Subaru fluid. This is the second car with automatic transmission I experiment with using Valvoline MaxLife. One drain/refill saves me about ten dollars, which is not a big deal, but the main thin is there is no such thing as "pay extra" for the special Subaru stuff. Sam

I am planning to drain/refill my 2010 Forester this weekend with the Valvoline Max Life. I will report back if I get any problems. Sam

He mentioned "castle nut". So it is probably the front. If my memory serves me right the torque for it is 145 ft/lb. If torqued correctly the bearing should last you awhile. I am on 190000 plus with OEM one. Good luck, Sam

Why? Probably the springs push harder on the brushes?

What kind of master cylinder is there? Could be a problem either with the aftermarket master cylinder or the brake booster. I remember having problems on my Ford van with the push rod been extended too far. Good luck, Sam

Make sure you double check what roach auto sends you. Their data base is very inaccurate and they will stick you with the wrong stuff. Good luck, Sam