subiemech85

vac. leak will still let it run, but sound funny several times had a large "grub screw" by the PCV valve work it's way out still made good boost! disconnect maf harness and see what happens

just another bogus "look at me" dyno run, such bogus crap load it on a water brake for long time loading down until it can't hold any more and dies is believable, not this crap they think is cool I would rather have 100 HP per cylinder reliably, with max. continuous rated power of 750 hp something you can leave on the dyno for hours on end and still chrun out the power reliably is the way to go http://www.scania.com/Images/Marine_Propulsion_tcm10-112715.pdf http://138.106.100.11/i&m/litt_cd/Pre-sales/Spec_marine_patrolcraft/DI16_43M_800.pdf you wanted discussion, and now you got it!!

MilesFox timing procedure http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

OOOOOooo look! there's a puddle!!!! SPLASH it will get a thorough wash later today

don't bother cleaning the maf unless it is really dirty and sticky cleaning the maf is sometimes needed for HOTWIRE maf systems, which you do NOT have I have use brake cleaner on the hotwire system with good results it seemed from your previous unclear post that you had already checked the driver side t-belt you should check to make sure that everything is lined up as I described, both cams, flywheel, rotor @ #1, #1 piston @ tdc compression

'85 xt service manual SUPPLEMENT Publication No. G131BEB '85 sedan and station wagon service manual Publication No. G130BEA section 2-3 other issues could have existed fresh gas could have stirred up crud cleaning flapper door won't do much of anything measuring resistance of the flapper door pot as the door is moving will determine if it is working

hopefully you can follow along: ALL 4WD A 3.545 39/11 B 1.947 37/19 C 1.366 41/30 D 0.972 35/36 E 0.780 32/41 R 3.416 41/26/12 DUAL RANGE H 1.000 34/34 L 1.592 23/14 X 25/19 *1 L 1.196 20/22 X 25/19 FRONT REDUCTION GEAR 3.900 39/10 3.700 37/10 *3 REAR REDUCTION GEAR 3.700 37/10 3.900 39/10 *2 *1 For Station Wagon *2 For MPFI model *3 for TURBO model all info from '85 fsm section 3-1 p. 8 looks like 3.9 SINGLE range is possible

piston pin work it's way out?? this is very interesting!! if it is side mount starter, I would like the bellhousing also interested in the crankshaft, even if it ends up being junk, playing with the idea of building an ea72 yes, the ea71 vulture is circling

throttle switch and coolant temp sensor share ground according to the centerfold pin-up, 9 pin connector also grounds for knock sensor, a/c compressor E center under dash? relay bracket holds 4 relays appears to be mounted on trans tunnel relays for ignition and fuel pump on left, rear defog and blower motor on right F under front right seat, remove seat and plastic trim, pull up carpet, top of cross brace left rear defroster ground looks to be by spare tire, under rear parcel shelf the aspirated air thermosensor may not be happy, this is probably the most likely factor to cause hard starting when cold, especially if the ecm thinks the air is 100+ upon further pondering, the round connector for maf and aspirated air temp sensor may be disconnected or have other issues, which COULD cause your code 21

BREAKER is black, round, with 2 wires, self resetting

I do most driving in 4th with the ea81 and 3.7 ratio trans, keeps engine happy in it's power range 3K @ 55 and 5th = 3K @ 70 the 1.6 vw make good power @ 5K

I have seen some wierd stuff in my time - as far as reasons for something not working for example ea81 distributor decided to self destruct and lock up which caused the aluminum drive gear on the crankshaft to strip, when the engine was turned over, the rotor would not always turn engine ran fine until heater blower motor was turned on It is possible to have a stripped timing belt, broken key, sheared roll pin, deformed gears you can set to base timing fairly easily: remove dist. and #1 sparkplug rotate engine to TDC compression #1 flywheel pointer at 0 and left side - opposite oil fill tube -camshaft gear alignen so that the "odd hole" is pointed down 45* away from engine, and the "odd hole" is pointed up 45* away from the engine on the right cam, then align dist. housing match mark "slot" or "arrow" with pinion gear match mark "round dent" to set #1 cylinder at ignition position you can use an '85 - '86 carb 4wd dist, or other dist. as long as it is the 2-wire system if you need to get by, even one from electronic ea71 or ea81 will work if you switch the dist. gear, just remove the old dist. with it's wiring, and hook up the replacement dist. wiring to the coil and all is well codes 21 and 22 affect drivability, not starting IIRC from reading the '86 code book last saturday easy way to drain gas from tank is to remove return hose from tank outlet, assuming the supply line is plugged, otherwise disconnect supply and return hoses connecting green connectors should cycle fuel pump the aspirated air thermosensor may not be happy the pressure switch is located between strut tower and maf, visible in your pic your system should have 2 swithces, one to detect boost so ecm will cancel air-fuel ratio feedback control - also signals the boost light, and the other signals ecm of overboost so it can cut fuel AFAIK: 87 was first year of crank angle sensor system, optical, screw in rotor try disconnecting the maf wire connector and starting, also a moment, this trick works on the hotwire system, and may work for you

code 12 same as me your timing is likely way off with cap removed crank engine and make sure rotor turns nice, no skipping 22mm on the front crank bolt remove dist., reset to initial base timing, marks aligned, and connect green check connector there are 7 common grounds A front left hood bumper B above front right tow hook C front right strut tower D front left strut tower E center under dash? relay bracket holds 4 relays F under front right seat G under trunk latch also clean your engine ground and left rear defroster ground the ECM does NOT care about having it's CASE GROUNDED incase you can't tell, I don't like it when people claim that they clean all grounds when they forget some my car "fixed" itself after I cleaned ALL grounds I quit driving my '85 vw jetta diesel when it quit starting below 50*f

"note to self" refill at 200 - 250 miles usually the idiot light will work when you have about 1 gallon left, even if the gauge goes to empty 1 mile after you fill the tank hotwire blower motor heat? what's that??

you aren't looking at the PITA model! the PITA model has ECVT $50 if the 4wd does not work it's a subaru, but the black sheep model

send me the ea82T look at vw fox, they are inline and tilted, small rad off to one side, as the front pulleys are almost touching the front of engine bay

what's wrong with offering $100????? zzz

NO unless you want to do a major upgrade

YES!! 6 hoses it is possible to “simply” remove the front dif. hanger bolt and rear dif. hanger nuts and pull dif. down to the ground, deal with the hoses, then remove 6 bolts that hold up tank the tank can be removed while the car is still on the ground, but is only a job for the skinny folk

his descriptions are correct if car is on roof and looking from the front end removal in post #3 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93798&highlight=remove+fuel+tank

bunk! this myth has been busted GeneralDisorder post #8 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57529&highlight=timing+distributor http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15423&highlight=timing+distributor and while we’re on the topic: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15423&highlight=timing+distributor

VAG PUG TOY BMW SAAB VOLVO - VAG 79 BRAT got pics?

ecm

anything you pour in will only make it worse, as all the crud will go to the filters and pulg them up all the crud has to go somewhere