subiemech85

don't waste your time load it on a water brake max rpm foot flat to floor and keep adding load until it won't pull any more is the only real way to do a dyno run I get so tired of these crappy acceleration type "dyno runs"

drain coolant from head, there is a plug at the front outer edge of dipstick side head, 14mm remove radiator to provide more access to block plug install t-stat jiggle pin up slowly add coolant squeeze hoses until no more bubbles you SHOULD have an oveflow system set up, whether it be from an xt6 as it has a self supporting bracket, or as simple as a 32oz fountain drink cup with lid that has hole in side and hose stuck through http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93931&highlight=block+heater

waht is the body style of the '86, and interior color? hatch, wagon, 3door, sedan tail lights are different 3door and sedan lights will work together some info on sunroof http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17608&highlight=sunroof the visors are approx. 15" long, and NO skinny extension to clip in by the mirror, prefer brown color could also possibly use the sliding glass if it is for wagon, as a spare motor and what it's attached to to make the glass move, not quite sure all of this is for spares

'86 turbo ecu with atleast 1 ft of wiring hrness roof motor + drive system sun visors if not saggy anyhow, let me know.

here's the links I was telling you about and some others: http://www.vwdieselparts.com/ http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/ http://www.partsplaceinc.com/ http://www.4crawler.com/ http://www.4crawler.com/VWpickup.shtml http://www.oneilcastro.com/A2Bentley/index.html

I used to add MMO to the oil at every change to help

11/79 ski wagon

I am going to recommend the toyota hilux and provide links of good info South Africa continued to produce the 1984-1988 generation through 1997. http://www.brian894x4.com/Hiluxgeneration2.html http://www.brian894x4.com/Hiluxgeneration3.html http://www.toyota.co.za/models/viewrange.aspx?id=hilux http://www.hilux4x4.co.za/ from everything I have seen, when a durable 4x4 is required, only the toys show up out in the wild these trucks are well made and have a large support group nothing else really comes close I do NOT recommend any subaru or nissan for this application, save your for something else! vw did make some interesting vehicles with 4x4, and made some in south africa also

4 gears run the system rear crank drives rear cam, rear cam, front crank drives dist, dist. you can upgrade to ea82 hitachi carb and intake system -- this is the current method that yields good results and 20+mpg in gen3 wagon, cruises right along at 3k rpm you can upgrade to ea81 hitachi carb and intake system you can upgrade to the weber carb and intake system of your choice avoid the carter / weber system, as I am assuming you are trying to upgrade from

better off to do the “revenge of the clutch roast “road” now before it can win again I say “meh” to the campout thing, but should be able to drop by

don't bother, as from the service manual: “a. The turbocharger proper cannot be disassembled or adjusted.” PCS

best thing to do to determine quality of fuel tank on "gen 3" is to remove sending unit accessible after pulling back trunk carpet, remove metal cover plate held down by glue, remove 5 nuts, and disconnect wire connector which may be hidden, so feel around for it once the sending unit is removed, look at it, should be clean, then look in the tank, also should be clean, then use small prybar to try and scrape the bottom of the tank to check for sediment in my case, sending unit had buildup of crud, thick layer, and nice mound of crud was in tank after using prybar to scrape some together after removing tank and looking through fill tube hole, :eek: :eek: fuel pump inlet screen was plugged, and fuel filter was full of crud

wow!!! this is almost EXACTLY what I went through RESTRICTED FUEL SYSTEM for a temporary fix, ran a hose in metal 5 gallon can down to pump, and it worked good enough to find a "new" fuel tank about a month later old tank was terribly rusted and sludged up, plugged in tank pickup, plugged pump inlet screen, plugged fuel filters only saving factor is that the car was equipped with turbo engine, and when I bought it, swapped in carb'd ea81, but if it were the ea82t it would have been bad news!!! what happens is the restricted system is able to supply ONLY enough fuel to keep the bowl full @ idle due to low demand, but above approx 20 mph the load is too much for the trickle of fuel to keep up with, and you have to wait until the bowl is full, hence being able to accelerate quickly to about 40 mph then run out of steem

led should be at the "top" end of the silver box, towards the steering wheel push the big bundle of wires out of the way, trun key on and look for flash looks nothing like the old style '86 box

both JD and CASE dealers are in town, and AGCO is on the way I was just thinking that the jd low viscosity would do better in the COLD CASE HYTRAN AGCO PERMATRAN JD HYGARD or low viscousity

with block heater and milkhouse heater, it is start up and go :need emoticon for frozen dude driving frozen car: this weekend the garage is +75f, so that will help in changing oil :bannana: Maybe the JD low viscousity hy-gard will work

temperature of last post @ 1:45 am -20f temp 2:45 pm -7f 400w block heater on all night 1500w milkhouse heater on 1/2 - 1 hr before driving atleast this combination works also have 1500w makita heat gun and makita blower for snow and ice removal, and 20" ariens snow blower for the bad stuff luckily the subaru is small enough to fit in the garage

up here, just south of the MN border, it's quite cold, currently -20.0 f when car first started and clutch released with trans in NEUTRAL, it will DRIVE FORWARD about 2ft also, shifting is quite hard with the std. 80w90 so, what will work good at the cold temps below freezing? 5spd pb 4x4 ATF??

not on these critters, there is one large black connector and one large brown connector used for line checks

NGK is easy to find around here DENSO is "rare" DENSO u-groove is IN the ADJUSTABLE electrode NGK v-groove is IN the FIXED electrode ACCEL plugs are jsut reboxed and repainted DENSO u-groove DENSO has a good TRAINING GUIDE http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/catalog/t-manual/index.html

it's GLUE

in an ideal world: the biggest you can afford, and install on a receiver mount system so it can be used at both ends also need mud anchors midwest mud fest

fuel pump pressures and flow carb 2.6 - 3.3 psi 38L / 10 gmp mpfi 61 - 71 psi max relief valve setting, 95L / 25.1 gpm @ 43.4 psi the pressure regulator adjusts the fuel pressure to 36.3 psi compared to the intake manifold pressure pressure engine at idle 26 - 30 psi pressure with pump on and engine off 37 psi pressure with pump off and engine off 33 psi '85 fsm spfi is approx. 20 psi

nothing is messed up with my car, it's simply a matter of stating what it is! digidash, trip computer, cruise, etc. all works very nicely with the way it is set up since these are legos, it seemed necessary to know for sure what combination the op is using U-check, green connectors DISCONNECTED will display ACTIVE codes, ONLY the MPFI componets NECESSARY for START-UP and DRIVE are DIAGNOSED the lamp flashes the trouble code which corresponds to the faulty part There are NO BLACK CONNECTORS to READ STRORED CODES on the EARLY systems 85-86 there is also NO MEMORY codes WILL display WITHOUT engine running, in BOTH U-check AND D-check information from '85 service manuals and my car! pic is of the wires under dash green connector connected the red wire with blue diode is a mystery please cite your sources of info!

VROOM!!!