3eyedwagon

If you are looking to clear some bigger snow tires; do yourself up a 2 inch lift. It takes a little time, a little bit of steel, a little bit of skill, and very little money. Either way, whether you buy one, or make one; you are probably going to end up installing it yourself. So why not just make it too? Write ups can be found all over here on how to do it. You could even have a local fab shop cut up the pieces for you, and save yourself some cash.

That epoxy floor covering seems great, but, if you do any sort of metal fab; stay away from it. Or at least designate a clean part, and a work part of your shop. They epoxy takes a hard hit from sparks, and heat. I'm working on a Scotchman 6514tm Ironworker right now. Saving my pennies, and nickels, and quarters, and $100s. It'll be one heck of an addition to my ultimate shop once I get it though. Good luck with yours

It's a joke. You see, you can tell because it is all completely ludacris. A GL15 doesn't exist in any year, let alone 82.5. And I threw in some personal situation humor. I can understand if you don't get that because it's kinda between Jeff, and I. I was basically making the comment (to Jeff) that everybody wants something for nothing, and to find the easiest way possible to run way too big of a tire. You just happened to stumble in, and become part of the punch line. But seriously. I'm working on a Gen 1 Brat with 3.75" of lift. I'm hoping to run 37s, if I can find the right backspacing in a 4 x 140 17" rim......

Now that is just not very nice at all. Last time I was there a open diff ea82 Auto wagon did pretty decent, in the snow, while a lifted wagon with custom bumpers had a hell of a time, due to axle problems. You just gotta be snappy, cuz people whine if you go too slow. Oh, and there is a really nice couple of older masculine ladies with two amazingly well outfitted Rubicons that will snatch block you out of whatever predicament you may find yourself in. That was a couple of years ago though.

PS: You are going to want to bend the rears at a 45 degree angle. 15 aint enuff. You'll get a hole ****pot of bind out of the struts. No bueno.

^^^ Sweet. I'll be down shortly. Nice work on the Brat. I say we do a 2 incher, and throw a set of 35s on it! Better stay with 35s though. If you go with 36s you have to start cutting fenders...... :-\:grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin: to all else. HA!!!

There are about 3 of them in that color in my area that I keep a real close eye on to watch for a For Sale sign to suddenly pop up. If you found one in good enough condition; it'd be work swapping out an automatic or something undesireable for a D/R, imo. That, and the darker turqoise color are about the rarest, and my two favorite colors. Luckily, I also like the maroon. Not nearly as hard to find. Eh Jeff???

No. One Eye's lifts work like amazing. I read all about them in another thread. He can fit the 31s no problem. He knows all about this stuff. I think he put 33s on a newer wagon (like 88-89) with this same lift. Just ask him. So, anyways Jeff; get back to me soon. I want for you to get started on this like this weekend! Here in a couple months I'll have like $20 for ya, plus materials of course! Just be careful around my paint. It's mint maroon, and they didn't make that many 82.5 GL15 Turbo Sedans. P.S. Do you need more material for the 2wd Automatic shift linkage, or is that part of this kit?

If you are reffering to the whole Canadian "White Power" thing; A: They already knew that. A few had it on their doors years back, and gave up on it. It was a cool sticker too. B: read up the post a bit, and you'll see they stuck with NW Washington Offroad. Stickers made it final.

so, would this be a bad time about seeing if you could install a 2" lift on my 82.5 2wd GL10 Turbo Sedan??? I get paid the 13th of January... I would like to clear 31s with no rubbing, and don't want to cut the stock fenders. Get back to me!!!

I think we've established that for some unexplainable reason John, your car is a "bad apple". I'd suggest a firey plunge into a body of water with a signed title on the seat, and a new EA82 wagon. P.S. Blame it on a Canadian if at all possible.

Why in creation would anyone ever do something incredibly stupid like that? Replacing an EA81 with an EA82 of any variety (let alone picking a carbed one out of all of them) would be a serious downgrade. Leave the EA81 alone. It makes plenty of power, with a better, more usable, torque curve, and doesn't have 1/4 of the problems.

Jeff (One Eye) has a big @** jug of Gorilla Glue in his shop, and one time I asked him what he needed that much Gorilla Glue for. He told me that his Brat strut rubbers seperated from time to time, and that is his fix. Might want to PM him about it, and get his opinion. But, I haven't seen his Brat have any front strut rubber problems since I've known him, so, it must work pretty good. Sure sounds better than $150.

Buy a 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet or GMC 1/2 3/4 or 1 ton. The best smelling interiors of all time. The 1967 - 1972 series wasn't bad either, but, just not as good as the 60 - 66. Problem solved.

As you probably figured out from the pictures; you need (6) 2" x 2" blocks to lift the front struts, and (4) pieces of 1/4" x 2" flatbar 4" in length for the rear strut extensions. The front blocks need to adjust for camber, so in addition to lowering the mounting point of the top of the strut; they also need to move it inboard. About 15* is what is needed. Some cars vary. For the front (6) blocks you will need (4) cut at a 75* angle (meaning 15* off of 90*, or 15* off of a "straight cut"). These blocks should look like this // from the side. You will need (2) of these blocks for each side of the car. They need centered holes one the top and bottom, that is what makes up your 15*. The (2) other blocks need to be cut at a straight 90* angle. They should look like this [] from the side. You will need (1) of these for each side of the car. These blocks are necessary because a 2" x 2" angled block won't fit in-between the strut, and body on forward most mounting bolt of each front strut. However, you still need to account for the 15*. So you have drill your holes spaced appropriately to make up your 15*. All of your blocks should be cut about 1" wide. Meaning they should be 2 " x 2" square tubing cut into 1" slivers. If you cut the blocks much wider than that, you will have to grind corners to get them fit in this small area correctly, and move the top of the strut inward. If you fail to do so, they will end up moving the strut at a F********* up angle, and adjust all sorts of crap you don't want to adjust. Then you will wear tires like crazy, complain alot, and then idiots who don't know what they are talking about will tell the people who do know what they are talking about that this lift "isn't a good idea". The rears are very simple. You need (4) pieces of 1/4" x 2" flatbar cut to 4" in length. Lighter material will work. We've used a wide variety of flatbar, on a number of various vehicles. Drill centered holes about 3/4" inboard from each end of the 4" of flat bar. The rear strut bolts are large, about 5/8", so drill your holes large enough for the bolt to pass through. You then need to bend the flatbar in the center to about a 45* angle. A little less will work. If you use lighter material, heating may not be necessary. With heavier material, you should use heat to get the bend abrupt. Bolt them in, and install your strut turned 180* around. Done. You don't need to install an H brace on the rear strut lift. The people who seem to bring up all the problems with these lifts seem to most often be the ones who have never done one. I've built more of these lifts than I care to remember, installed a few of those, and both wheeled, and seen these lifts wheeled the ever living piss out of. If you bolt everything down tight, they don't swivel like one would think. If you have access to a welder, and some spare time, and metal: Go ahead, and weld in an H brace. But these lifts (WITHOUT AN "X BRACE") have lived through ripping struts apart, and not done // or \\. The nice thing is it's easy access, so you can do it later. But, it sounds to me like you don't, and if that is the case; don't worry about it.

Seriously, this has to be one of the easiest things in the world to do, and it is a great introduction to fabrication. If you are still totally freaked out about it, just make a weekend trip over Hwy 20, and get a kit from Jeff (One Eye). For a bit more cash he'd probably even help you put it in. (don't mean to speak for you Jeff, but, I just have a hunch) That way you can see the whole deal, and actually learn something. He's the fairest person you are going to find to get this kit made, because he actually does this all for the enjoyment of it, rather than money. The kit that these guys are talking about is seriously made up of $30 worth of steel, and the time it takes to cut drill, and bend all of it. So don't expect to pay $5,000,000 for one. The time the person used making it is worth a bit, but not some the prices I've seen kits sold for. So, get someone on here to draw you up a decent schematic, and have them made at a local fab shop (should take them about an hour), or talk to Jeff (One Eye), If you deal with Jeff; he, and I can knock you out a kit after I get back from Bonneville. Good Luck!

It needs painted again. It's had a few layers scraped off of it on the trail. Make me a reasonable offer, and it might be yours. It can also come with a matching tube skidplate that is absolutely sweet, and strong. It can also come with a matching rear tube bumber that is also really nice. It'd just take a drilling the holes to get it to fit your rig, as I plated mine, and drilled where I wanted to. I'm looking at buying a motorcycle, and parting this thing out. The right number here in the next day or two just might get the whole shebang.

That's a nice qualifier. You can run a welded diff on the pavement, just like the numerous people on here who actually have, and can speak from experience rather than from what they've heard. It won't wear your tires out that much more quickly, unless you have some gummy Intercos (which are going to wear out in a hurry on the street anyways). You just have to realize that it is going to drive a little differently, and play to it's strengths, and weaknesses. There will be no more cranking it into tight parking spots at the grocery store without alot of binding, and a bit of tire wear. Get used to it. And if you have extended periods where you don't plan on wheeling; it'd be worth the 15 minutes to pull an axle.

The black wagon with half doors that I posted about in that thread. That'd be mine.

If you aren't interested in making your own; this one is kinda for sale. For the right price anyways. It covers the centerlight motor, and linkage really well. It's super stout. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88670&highlight=half+doors

I don't understand how you have been the only one not able to figure this out. You should be able to look at any of the 6+ wagons out there in your area with this SAME EXACT setup, and surmise that: A: Your setup is different/wrong B: Your car is somehow different C: Your crap is bent In any event, buying anything isn't going to solve anything on that list of problems. You need to get under it, and figure out what the problem is. Comparison to other readily available vehicles is a excellent way of troubleshooting.

JUNK. Anyone reading at a 3rd grade level could tell you that. I don't buy filters for the convenience of a bit of rubberized coating on the end, and neither should anyone else. Oil Filters are like "unfortunate" looking girls; it's what's on the inside that counts. Carry on.

If it substantially bothers you, it is too much pull. The right hand pull is designed for the situation where a driver falls asleep, and provides no steering input. It shouldn't be incredibly noticeable, but instead, a slow drift to the right over a somewhat significant distance. If you feel that you need to continually provide left hand steering input in order to keep it in your lane; you probably have a problem. Either that, or Subaru has decided that people that doze off need to end up in the ditch quickly. I don't know their alignment specs, so I don't know. If it is something you just can't stand; you are probably either OCDing out, or the specs have the car pulling too much. I'd say this leaves you with a couple of options. A: Find a good independent outfit to set your alignment to true, instead of the factory specifications. Alignment isn't brain surgery. Especially with todays equipment. I still set mine with chalk lines, a plumb bob, and a measuring tape. So a good shop should be able to figure this one out. B: Continue to complain about the problem, document your situation, and try to ditch the car under the lemon law act. You still have a little time to do so, but, you better get with it. If you do decide to take this route; don't document that this car is designed to do this. You want to unload it under the fact that YOUR car is somehow defective, and proving it is designed to do so will not help your case. People can Monday morning quarterback this one all they want, but, they haven't driven YOUR car, and chances are if their car were bothering them as much as yours sounds like it is bothering you; they'd be piping up too. Things like mileage can amplify problems like this exponentially. Even a few thousand miles will wear the shine off those new parts, and all of the sudden a tiny problem becomes noticeable.

Man, what a suckers bet. I could carry alot of stuff 20ft. Especially if I got it all for $40. Sounds kinda like a buffet; you gotta make those suckers sorry they ever came up with the idea!!!

I'm guessing from your information that you are using solid cored wire, with gas shielding. No internal shielding in the wire (aka Dual Shield). If you are using true GMAW wire, and not FCAW with a gas backing; I have to break it to you that this stuff was NEVER intended to be welded overhead. If you look at the roll of wire, it will clearly state to be used in postitions 1g, and maybe 2g. That means flat, and vertical, and the vertical is doubtful. GMAW is a shop wire, and just isn't designed to do that job. The good news is that you "can" eventually weld overhead with it. It is just going to take some time, and practice. The most important thing you can do is develop a deeper push angle, meaning lay the tip of the gun flatter, or more parallel with the piece you are welding. Try to be about 50* from parallel with the work piece. This will prevent the molten metal from clogging you nozel. Also, crank a little more amperage, or reduce your wire speed. This will allow more wire stickout, and you will actually be arcing (welding) further away from the nozel. Trying to emphasize that wire stickout will help. By that I mean set the machine to where it is actually welding nice while your gun is further away from the steel, and then really pay attention to how close your nozel is to the metal. You are going to want to move quicker than you would when welding flat, as you will accumulate a convex puddle quicker because gravity. Try drawing little circles with the tip of the wire, and pushing out of the puddle the same way each time. That will allow your weld puddle to cool, while you are moving aways from it, then as you return to the puddle your weld will fuse your existing puddle, and what you have just done. Other tips that would be helpful are to make sure the steel is very clean. GMAW REALLLY needs clean metal to work. You aren't running enough amps to burn through dirty crap like with other forms of welding, so cleanliness is extremely important. Also, when grinding the metal, you can't have the area being welded too coarse. It helps immensely, especialy overhead, and vertical. It is just that much easier for the steel to stick. Ground placement is also important. Place the gound away from you so that the current has to flow towards that ground. It helps on a molecular level to keep all that energy working in your favor. Hope this helps, and good luck!