3eyedwagon

No. One Eye's lifts work like amazing. I read all about them in another thread. He can fit the 31s no problem. He knows all about this stuff. I think he put 33s on a newer wagon (like 88-89) with this same lift. Just ask him. So, anyways Jeff; get back to me soon. I want for you to get started on this like this weekend! Here in a couple months I'll have like $20 for ya, plus materials of course! Just be careful around my paint. It's mint maroon, and they didn't make that many 82.5 GL15 Turbo Sedans. P.S. Do you need more material for the 2wd Automatic shift linkage, or is that part of this kit?

If you are reffering to the whole Canadian "White Power" thing; A: They already knew that. A few had it on their doors years back, and gave up on it. It was a cool sticker too. B: read up the post a bit, and you'll see they stuck with NW Washington Offroad. Stickers made it final.

so, would this be a bad time about seeing if you could install a 2" lift on my 82.5 2wd GL10 Turbo Sedan??? I get paid the 13th of January... I would like to clear 31s with no rubbing, and don't want to cut the stock fenders. Get back to me!!!

I think we've established that for some unexplainable reason John, your car is a "bad apple". I'd suggest a firey plunge into a body of water with a signed title on the seat, and a new EA82 wagon. P.S. Blame it on a Canadian if at all possible.

Why in creation would anyone ever do something incredibly stupid like that? Replacing an EA81 with an EA82 of any variety (let alone picking a carbed one out of all of them) would be a serious downgrade. Leave the EA81 alone. It makes plenty of power, with a better, more usable, torque curve, and doesn't have 1/4 of the problems.

Jeff (One Eye) has a big @** jug of Gorilla Glue in his shop, and one time I asked him what he needed that much Gorilla Glue for. He told me that his Brat strut rubbers seperated from time to time, and that is his fix. Might want to PM him about it, and get his opinion. But, I haven't seen his Brat have any front strut rubber problems since I've known him, so, it must work pretty good. Sure sounds better than $150.

Buy a 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet or GMC 1/2 3/4 or 1 ton. The best smelling interiors of all time. The 1967 - 1972 series wasn't bad either, but, just not as good as the 60 - 66. Problem solved.

As you probably figured out from the pictures; you need (6) 2" x 2" blocks to lift the front struts, and (4) pieces of 1/4" x 2" flatbar 4" in length for the rear strut extensions. The front blocks need to adjust for camber, so in addition to lowering the mounting point of the top of the strut; they also need to move it inboard. About 15* is what is needed. Some cars vary. For the front (6) blocks you will need (4) cut at a 75* angle (meaning 15* off of 90*, or 15* off of a "straight cut"). These blocks should look like this // from the side. You will need (2) of these blocks for each side of the car. They need centered holes one the top and bottom, that is what makes up your 15*. The (2) other blocks need to be cut at a straight 90* angle. They should look like this [] from the side. You will need (1) of these for each side of the car. These blocks are necessary because a 2" x 2" angled block won't fit in-between the strut, and body on forward most mounting bolt of each front strut. However, you still need to account for the 15*. So you have drill your holes spaced appropriately to make up your 15*. All of your blocks should be cut about 1" wide. Meaning they should be 2 " x 2" square tubing cut into 1" slivers. If you cut the blocks much wider than that, you will have to grind corners to get them fit in this small area correctly, and move the top of the strut inward. If you fail to do so, they will end up moving the strut at a F********* up angle, and adjust all sorts of crap you don't want to adjust. Then you will wear tires like crazy, complain alot, and then idiots who don't know what they are talking about will tell the people who do know what they are talking about that this lift "isn't a good idea". The rears are very simple. You need (4) pieces of 1/4" x 2" flatbar cut to 4" in length. Lighter material will work. We've used a wide variety of flatbar, on a number of various vehicles. Drill centered holes about 3/4" inboard from each end of the 4" of flat bar. The rear strut bolts are large, about 5/8", so drill your holes large enough for the bolt to pass through. You then need to bend the flatbar in the center to about a 45* angle. A little less will work. If you use lighter material, heating may not be necessary. With heavier material, you should use heat to get the bend abrupt. Bolt them in, and install your strut turned 180* around. Done. You don't need to install an H brace on the rear strut lift. The people who seem to bring up all the problems with these lifts seem to most often be the ones who have never done one. I've built more of these lifts than I care to remember, installed a few of those, and both wheeled, and seen these lifts wheeled the ever living piss out of. If you bolt everything down tight, they don't swivel like one would think. If you have access to a welder, and some spare time, and metal: Go ahead, and weld in an H brace. But these lifts (WITHOUT AN "X BRACE") have lived through ripping struts apart, and not done // or \\. The nice thing is it's easy access, so you can do it later. But, it sounds to me like you don't, and if that is the case; don't worry about it.

Seriously, this has to be one of the easiest things in the world to do, and it is a great introduction to fabrication. If you are still totally freaked out about it, just make a weekend trip over Hwy 20, and get a kit from Jeff (One Eye). For a bit more cash he'd probably even help you put it in. (don't mean to speak for you Jeff, but, I just have a hunch) That way you can see the whole deal, and actually learn something. He's the fairest person you are going to find to get this kit made, because he actually does this all for the enjoyment of it, rather than money. The kit that these guys are talking about is seriously made up of $30 worth of steel, and the time it takes to cut drill, and bend all of it. So don't expect to pay $5,000,000 for one. The time the person used making it is worth a bit, but not some the prices I've seen kits sold for. So, get someone on here to draw you up a decent schematic, and have them made at a local fab shop (should take them about an hour), or talk to Jeff (One Eye), If you deal with Jeff; he, and I can knock you out a kit after I get back from Bonneville. Good Luck!

It needs painted again. It's had a few layers scraped off of it on the trail. Make me a reasonable offer, and it might be yours. It can also come with a matching tube skidplate that is absolutely sweet, and strong. It can also come with a matching rear tube bumber that is also really nice. It'd just take a drilling the holes to get it to fit your rig, as I plated mine, and drilled where I wanted to. I'm looking at buying a motorcycle, and parting this thing out. The right number here in the next day or two just might get the whole shebang.

That's a nice qualifier. You can run a welded diff on the pavement, just like the numerous people on here who actually have, and can speak from experience rather than from what they've heard. It won't wear your tires out that much more quickly, unless you have some gummy Intercos (which are going to wear out in a hurry on the street anyways). You just have to realize that it is going to drive a little differently, and play to it's strengths, and weaknesses. There will be no more cranking it into tight parking spots at the grocery store without alot of binding, and a bit of tire wear. Get used to it. And if you have extended periods where you don't plan on wheeling; it'd be worth the 15 minutes to pull an axle.

The black wagon with half doors that I posted about in that thread. That'd be mine.

If you aren't interested in making your own; this one is kinda for sale. For the right price anyways. It covers the centerlight motor, and linkage really well. It's super stout. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88670&highlight=half+doors

I don't understand how you have been the only one not able to figure this out. You should be able to look at any of the 6+ wagons out there in your area with this SAME EXACT setup, and surmise that: A: Your setup is different/wrong B: Your car is somehow different C: Your crap is bent In any event, buying anything isn't going to solve anything on that list of problems. You need to get under it, and figure out what the problem is. Comparison to other readily available vehicles is a excellent way of troubleshooting.

JUNK. Anyone reading at a 3rd grade level could tell you that. I don't buy filters for the convenience of a bit of rubberized coating on the end, and neither should anyone else. Oil Filters are like "unfortunate" looking girls; it's what's on the inside that counts. Carry on.

If it substantially bothers you, it is too much pull. The right hand pull is designed for the situation where a driver falls asleep, and provides no steering input. It shouldn't be incredibly noticeable, but instead, a slow drift to the right over a somewhat significant distance. If you feel that you need to continually provide left hand steering input in order to keep it in your lane; you probably have a problem. Either that, or Subaru has decided that people that doze off need to end up in the ditch quickly. I don't know their alignment specs, so I don't know. If it is something you just can't stand; you are probably either OCDing out, or the specs have the car pulling too much. I'd say this leaves you with a couple of options. A: Find a good independent outfit to set your alignment to true, instead of the factory specifications. Alignment isn't brain surgery. Especially with todays equipment. I still set mine with chalk lines, a plumb bob, and a measuring tape. So a good shop should be able to figure this one out. B: Continue to complain about the problem, document your situation, and try to ditch the car under the lemon law act. You still have a little time to do so, but, you better get with it. If you do decide to take this route; don't document that this car is designed to do this. You want to unload it under the fact that YOUR car is somehow defective, and proving it is designed to do so will not help your case. People can Monday morning quarterback this one all they want, but, they haven't driven YOUR car, and chances are if their car were bothering them as much as yours sounds like it is bothering you; they'd be piping up too. Things like mileage can amplify problems like this exponentially. Even a few thousand miles will wear the shine off those new parts, and all of the sudden a tiny problem becomes noticeable.

Man, what a suckers bet. I could carry alot of stuff 20ft. Especially if I got it all for $40. Sounds kinda like a buffet; you gotta make those suckers sorry they ever came up with the idea!!!

I'm guessing from your information that you are using solid cored wire, with gas shielding. No internal shielding in the wire (aka Dual Shield). If you are using true GMAW wire, and not FCAW with a gas backing; I have to break it to you that this stuff was NEVER intended to be welded overhead. If you look at the roll of wire, it will clearly state to be used in postitions 1g, and maybe 2g. That means flat, and vertical, and the vertical is doubtful. GMAW is a shop wire, and just isn't designed to do that job. The good news is that you "can" eventually weld overhead with it. It is just going to take some time, and practice. The most important thing you can do is develop a deeper push angle, meaning lay the tip of the gun flatter, or more parallel with the piece you are welding. Try to be about 50* from parallel with the work piece. This will prevent the molten metal from clogging you nozel. Also, crank a little more amperage, or reduce your wire speed. This will allow more wire stickout, and you will actually be arcing (welding) further away from the nozel. Trying to emphasize that wire stickout will help. By that I mean set the machine to where it is actually welding nice while your gun is further away from the steel, and then really pay attention to how close your nozel is to the metal. You are going to want to move quicker than you would when welding flat, as you will accumulate a convex puddle quicker because gravity. Try drawing little circles with the tip of the wire, and pushing out of the puddle the same way each time. That will allow your weld puddle to cool, while you are moving aways from it, then as you return to the puddle your weld will fuse your existing puddle, and what you have just done. Other tips that would be helpful are to make sure the steel is very clean. GMAW REALLLY needs clean metal to work. You aren't running enough amps to burn through dirty crap like with other forms of welding, so cleanliness is extremely important. Also, when grinding the metal, you can't have the area being welded too coarse. It helps immensely, especialy overhead, and vertical. It is just that much easier for the steel to stick. Ground placement is also important. Place the gound away from you so that the current has to flow towards that ground. It helps on a molecular level to keep all that energy working in your favor. Hope this helps, and good luck!

No problem. It was a good chat, and it's always nice to let the world know how much more than them I know. Just for your information, and personal enrichment; the 4.3 v6 IS a 350 re-engineered into a v6 configuration. Just think of a 2nd generation (1985 or later) 350 cid V8 Chevy missing cylinders number 3, and 6, and (most) only having a passenger side oil galley for the crank. That is a 4.3 v6. It is an engine handed to us directly from the gods, and designed for GOBS of low end, earth rotating torque. They will leave the line in 5th gear without much drama. Just something neat I noticed. I'm always telling Jeff (One Eye) that I'm not certain why they ever put more than two gears in my pickup. As far as the VG30; I'm pretty familiar with that little guy, and I've free spooled a few of them after the timing belts went. I had a pretty sweet little 1988 200sx s12 with a VG30 in it. They are a blast of a car that have been probably, luckily, saved from the "drifter" idiots by their IRS. Mine was a dream. Reasonably fast for 160 HP. The only thing I ever found funny was how those Nissans all smell funny after you run them very hard at all. I'll be sure to enjoy my S10. I'm not sure it would ever make it on a tow truck without dragging the license plate, roll pan, and back half off the bed off. Luckily I can keep it running with a couple sticks of Cloves (Blackjack works in a pinch), a 12 gauge shotgun shell, and some Murrays pomade. Enjoy your silly extended cab windows!

Bserk, All's well man! I can handle a good debate without getting too worked up. Just take a look at any of the Toyota threads on here, and you can see that. Those guys are even more brainwashed than you!!! Anyways, I'm just here to tell you that you are wrong, and I am right! I made the crack about timing belts just as a comparison. Timing belts are just one more thing to go wrong in my book. You can look at them as maintenance, but, realistically I think they should be looked at as a weakness. Belts will break far more frequently than a chain, and when they do; the vehicle they are in is worthless. I'd call that a reliability, and cost of operation issue just out of principle. On the other hand, the front of a 4.3 Chevy V6 is identical (as is much of the motor) to it's big bro 5.7 V8. That means that its' timing chain will probably still be turning shortly after the sun burns out. However, in the event that you should decide to change one; it should only take a decent mechanic about 75 minutes to do so. It's only a bit more work than changing a waterpump on a Small Block Chevy, and I've almost taught my 10 year old nephew to do that. As far as my modifications to my pickup; I only offered up those examples as a testament to the durability of these trucks. As you probably read, I've had two other 4.3 S10s which were left stock, and worked in stock form. They were awesome, they did everything I could've ever asked of them. But that's the best part about the one I've modified, and beat the snot out of. It is an even better testament to the durability of these trucks. The OP may never want to modify his, but, I can tell him with much certainty that both the 7 1/2" and 7 5/8" rear ends will handle, with great resiliency, all the nitrous fed, wide tired clutch drops I've ever thrown at them. So will the 4l60e autos, and the NV manuals. They were designed for heavier vehicles propelled by a V8, and that probably accounts for their durability. While you may not be interested in my questionable driving practices, I have to ask if you can offer me any such bona fides for many other vehicles on the market. Maybe the Ranger, maybe parts of the Toyotas( if only they'd made ANY horsepower in the 90s:rolleyes: ), but, I certainly haven't seen many hardbodys that have been modified, and run hard. It kinda makes me wonder if all of the ones that have been aren't just rotting in a junkyard somewhere after an overly expensive, and scarce part gave up. The fact that you can extensively modify an S10 speaks volumes about numerous things on them. Their cooling system will cool many more cubic inches than stock, and their drivetrains will handle sooooo much more power. So while other pickups may last wonderfully well when driven by old men , the S10 will last wonderfully well when driven by both old men, and idiotic young men who enjoy smokey burnouts! As far as your surprise as to the number of people waving the American flag for small pickups; there's probably a good reason for that. America invented the pickup, why wouldn't ours be better?

Why would he need to do that? He could just pull the rear axles completely. Just yank the axles (Hammer, roll pin punch, and a jack), the moustache bar, the diff, and the driveline. You just need to find a really good trans plug for the rear output on the trans. Or leave the driveline in, and put a propeller on the end of it! Best idea EVER!!!!

You mean the original post that I, and multiple others answered repeatedly, a majority of us with the same response. That being that the S10 is the best truck for this situation. It's cheaper, cheaper to operate, and amazingly when you can carry/tow heavier loads; light loads are really no big deal! Take a look at some of the answers, and you may get the jist of the "on topic" responses. You missed what I was pointing out about the S10. It doesn't take anything to get them to be great. That's what pretty much everyone who owns one knows. In fact, it takes about a $1000 less on the used market to get them to be better than their competitors. You don't need money, or knowledge, or work to get them to be superior to their rivals. You need a few more gallons of fuel, and a $95 TBI spacer will fix that. So you're still $905 dollars ahead, and you can do SO much more. As far as reliability, I'll let the THOUSANDS of them still on the road speak for that. I've gotten 198,000 out of mine while hauling everything I can imagine, jamming nitrous down its' throat, doing horribly cruel valve floating clutch sidesteps to produce dense clouds of tire smoke, and generally just making it a test mule for whatever I can think to throw at a SBC or 4.3. And it still runs like a top. In the end you may get an extra 30,000 miles over my S10, only after replacing your timing belt (seriously? Timing belts on a truck?) a half a dozen times on your Nissan or head gaskets almost as much on your Toyota, all the while I'll occasionaly adjust my valves because I decided to screw with what GM produced, something that could be easily avoided by just leaving it the heck alone . I'm ok with my truck not lasting quite as long, because while it was on the road it was so much better! Nah nah nah! Besides, once the engine croaks (which will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 300,000 at this rate) I'll just hop over to craigslist, and pick up one with 130k on it for $150.

^ Yeah. The S10 is pretty tough to beat. I've had (4) 2nd gens (1) with an Iron Duke (a nickname like that is no coincidence, and Volvo/Penta doesn't buy technology because it isn't reliable), and (3) with 4.3 V6s. Everything about them is superior in build quality. From rear ends to transmissions. I've worked the tail off a couple, and built my favorite into a pretty sweet little muscle truck. That Z Code 4.3 started seeing 80-100 HP wet shots of NOS at 120,000 miles. It's finally getting really close to rolling over 200,000, and I'm about due to adjust my roller rockers. Not many motors would live up to how I have driven that truck, and it is still plenty fast enough to kill me. It's a shame that Chevrolet ever pulled the plug on that platform, and probably a HUGE mistake. Now we are stuck with a Colorado with an inline-5. WTF???!??? At least the 4.3 lives on in vans, the w/t base pickup series, governement service vehicles, motorhomes, and a NUMBER of other things.

I'll take that bet. It must've taken all of those 30 years to become brainwashed enough to even attempt comparing a VG30 to the 4.3 V6. Or to even compare a VG30 to Fords 4.0 or even its 3.0. I'm not saying the VG30 is a horrible motor, but, I've worked on a few in my old 1988 200sx, and a 4.3 Chevy they are not. The S10 is simply better in every possible way. The only thing you have to brag about is mileage, and stupid extended cab windows, and with a little knowledge the S10 can beat you in the mileage. All that for on the cheap. The aftermarket is plentiful because they, and most people who actually USE their trucks have been intelligent enough to spot an amazing truck. The S10 is simply the best truck available in this niche if for no other reason than the 4.3 litre Chevrolet V6. Even if the rest of the truck lacked in any way (which it doesn't) the 4.3 V6 would still be good enough to haul the S10s to the top of this heap. EASILY.

If they sell Douglas tires at WalMart; that speaks volumes as to their quality. That place is a cesspool. I wouldn't go there if they had the only vaccines to prevent my @#$%^#$% from falling off. Anyways, Walmart tires: Don't put them on your car if you don't like the side of dark highways late at night. Them being noisy is the least of your problems. Have a good day!