3eyedwagon

The literally dozens of XJs I know have never had any of those problems, And the mobs of people that wheel them, and the clubs that support them might argue your claim. The ONLY problem with the unibodies I have EVER encountered are on ones that have been in major wrecks. As far as your claim of taking more abuse offroad.... that'd be one I'd be more than willing to argue with you. I think it would be more than a fair fight, IF; the Toyota kept all Toyota parts, and the Jeep kept all Jeep parts. Or even if you just kept them to their stock components. No upgrades allowed, other than maybe suspension, and tires. Possibly gearing too, with some restrictions. That way you are speaking to the true capability of the vehicle. Let me tell you from experience: the Toyota would be up **** creek. Without the VAST aftermarket, and the pilfering of designs from other vehicles; the Toyota pickup would be nowhere in the wheeling industry. It would probably be classified well below the XJ.

I don't think that's the case. You can pick up, and wheel a XJ for nothing. And they are honestly one of the most efficient wheeling machines around. Especially the two doors. If I ever had the desire to wheel something that was all bolt on stuff; I would probably go with a XJ. They have the best return per dollar in wheeling goodies, in my opinion.

Yeah, I hear there is a good place to test lifted Subaru's, and beat up your friend's not far from where this picture was taken....

So, if you already have your mind made up; why ask for the comparison? People here have told you that their EXPERIENCE has proven Dynamat to be a superior product. Whether it be the science that the company has invested in, or dumb luck: Dynamat is the best out there. It may all be a rip, but if so; why do you even care? If you don't want to use it, just shove some old dish cloths under your carpet. Or buy the cheap stuff, and be pissy when it doesn't do a very good job. You gotta pay to play.

I'll try to make it down that way, but I've kinda got a full plate going on. If nothing else, I'll give you a call in the afternoon.

Sweet deal man. Looks good!

No idea man. Last time I saw his bike, it was in pieces. I'll give them all a call tomorrow. I gotta remind the Justices, and a few other people anyways. I'll get the phone book out, and start dialing about mid day tomorrow.

Go with Dynamat. There's a reason the stuff is more expensive. It's because they've earned the reputation of working incredibly well. I layed some of this down inside my Nova while we were painting it. You wouldn't believe the difference versus some of the other stuff I've used. I was convinced to use it by a friend at a local stereo shop. They won't use anything else on high end installs, and this is only after a few years of trying every product on the market.

Rog check, I'd just heard so much about them, I figured they were the hot ****. Jeff found me some hot dog ones here fairly locally that I can have shipped tomorrow. Thanks for the info though.

Anyone know of a good place to get these near Mt. Vernon Washington? Or are they a mail order deal only? I need a front for an EA82 D/R SPFI car, and would prefer to pick one up somewhere around here as I need it by THIS FRIDAY!

Don't worry man. Everyone here had to start somewhere' date=' and with a little persistence; you will get this figured out. Just try not to get discouraged.

Those are 215s? For some reason, they look larger than that.

The Weber is a great carb, about as good as any carb can get. As far as the SPFI, I just bought MY VERY FIRST SPFI car about a week ago now. I will admit, at first I was against it. I didn't like the idea, and I would've much preferred a carb'd car in favor of swapping in a Weber. To compound this problem, the SPFI setup was acting poorly. It had some problems, and the previous owner just stopped driving it as a solution. After limping it home with the help of a friend, I decided to give it a go. The problem ended up being a Throttle Positioning Sensor, a problem I had never before dealt with. With just a little research on here, asking some quesitons, testing some sensors, asking a few more questions, and trying again; I had solved the problem ON MY OWN. Now, I obviously had help from people here, and friends. But, ultimately I got to the bottom of the problem. I am no genius, but I was able to fix it, and now the car runs great. Now I am glad that I scored on an SPFI car. With just a little bit of research I found out how incredibly simple these systems are, and now I have the benefit of fuel injection. I have no need to pump the gas when the car is cold. I just start it, and walk away. Plus, I got to use that incredibly expensive digital multi-meter that I had invested in awhile back. I had always wondered why so many people on here raved about the SPFI system. Now I know why. I highly encourage you to learn all you can about it, and enjoy it. This board is an excellent place to start, as there are ALOT of people on here who not only know these systems well, but, more importantly; they are willing to take the time to help you figure it out.

Yeah, I am fairly impressed with the overall simplicity of this motor. It's just some concepts that I'm fairly unacquainted with. I'll slowly learn it while I go.... I grabbed a spare while I was at Pull-A-Part, but I will definitely take this one apart just to see how it works, and to see if I can get it to work correctly. It's hard to mess up something that's already broken - So, I've got a perfect opportunity to learn something. Thanks again for the help. Now I can get it ready for the wheeling trip...

As promised: I said I would let you all know how things went. I went to Jeff's yesterday evening, and tested his TPS to compare the reading. The TPS on Jeff's car reacted/measured out EXACTLY as the procedure in Daeron's thread described. I was fully convinced that my TPS was garbage, and this morning I took a trip to Pull-A-Part to test/grab a couple sensors. I finally got around to installing it a couple of hours ago, adjusted it to specs, and tested it. This WAS indeed the problem. With the new one installed the car revs freely, no matter how hard the throttle is stomped. There is no hesitation at any RPM, and the car seems to run excellent. I want to give a big thanks to all of you who helped walk me through this. Thanks for patiently answering my questions, as misled, and odd as they may have been. Hopefully I can some day pay it forward.

That makes sense. I was just thinking of grabbing a handfull of them at PAP, and testing them when I get home. I am going to compare readings first. His house is just 1 hour away. So, I'm already 2/3 of the way to the junkyard. I figured it wouldn't make a difference, but just wanted to make sure. I figured it may make a difference to measure conductivity between A-B with the prescribed measurements. I'll take my M M with me. Thanks a ton guys. I'm outta here. I'll let you know how all goes!

Alright. Thanks. I'm headed to PAP to get another one. Is testing these off of the vehicle using a screw driver in place of the throttle shaft advised, or should I leave the TPS on the car in favor of testing the initial TPS placement settings as well? I'm not sure how much that will account into the other readings, if at all.

I figured those readings were way too high, I just figured that maybe there was a typo in Daeron's procedure (you never know). If there is a consensus that the correct range is in the Ks, I'm definitely convinced of my idea. That's one of the strangest parts, I can't seem to get any codes from the ECU other than the 5 flashes. It seems to me a stumbling of the motor would trip something.... I'm anxiously awaiting my trip down to investigate another TPS:)

Thanks guys. I'm headed down here in a bit to test one on a car that I know runs, and drives well. Jeff is kind enough to let me use his Touring Wagon as a guinea pig.... I'll compare the readings I get, but I'm really running out of things it could be. If Jeff's measures more consistently, and stable than mine; it looks like a trip to Pull-A-Part.

I'm headed down to Jeff's tonight to compare the test results I get from his TPS, on a car that is known to run just fine. But I am wondering if any of you know; How frequently do TP sensors actually fail? The car I am dealing with is at 275k on the clock, and from the somewhat random results I have received (see above posts); I am beginning to lean in this direction. However, with new sensors costing so much, and the nearest junkyard a 1.5 hour drive; I want to be sure before I head out hunting for a new one! Any help would be met with a tearful hug at this point... Thanks in advance!

you caught me skimming. that'll happen.

Also, thoroughly clean the threads with pentrating lube before you even start. This will save you some time turning a nut 1/4 turn at a time over gritty crap.