torxxx

I disagree. I've ran many SPFI and MPFI cars with the O2 sensors unplugged. the CEL doesnt even come on.....

I agree with calebz. the engine will come right out, but getting it back in and getting the input shaft on the tranny into the clutch/flywheel can be a PITA is you dont have the right angle. I'd rather use a steel pipe and a chain. wrap the chain around the pipe tight with the pipe sittin on the fenders. Then the two guys stand up while the 3rd pulls the engine forward. As for putting it back in that way. walk the engine over the car, and then the two holders just bend their knees til the engine is where its supposed to be. 3rd guy slides the engine back in place. Me and my ex girlfriend pulled and installed my engine that way. So if a girl can do it, anyone can...

flashing check engine light on the dash is a all clear when its in test mode aint it?

its just a body lift. Along with everyone else's lifts that are available (AA and SJR) I'm currently trying to find a way to do a suspension lift in the front. I think I figured out a way to do a suspension lift on the back. (the accord spring deal is a half assed suspension lift just because of the fact it takes up about 2 1/2 inches of sag that you have with the stock suspension and springs) the numbers you are reading are 4 in the rear 3 in the front I believe. just jacks the rear up an inch. (the numbers are backwards.....) I could be wrong though but it makes more sense to have more lift in the back

ahh ok numbchux. I measured it out before and after the honda springs swap and it grew 2 1/2 inches. Everyone that has them *************** about them being too stiff, but I'm not seeing it. I did pull them off a 89 accord 5 speed w/o AC so they are the lightest of the honda springs. I'm gonna go root on the rear's tonite and see if I can snap an axle. The only problem that I see happening now with a quick axle swap is that the control arms are MAXED out all the way down. I think I'm gonna have to unbolt the bottom of the strut to get the axle all the way out. I'm looking at making drop down shackles for the control arms in the rear. Maybe 1 1/2 inch drop. shouldnt be very hard to do and it will straighten out the axles. I wonder if a linkage setup would work for keeping all 4 tires on the ground in a spot where it would usually 3 wheel from the steep angles? the rears of the cars seem very easy to make adaptors for. I'm almost thinking custom rear crossmember. I could make a way stronger one out of 5/16 thick steel tubing. It would be like SJR's rear xmember block kit, but instead of being a spacer and the stock x-member, it'd be one piece designed to keep the tires farther back when the suspension is extended all the way. whatya think???

I used both a body lift and spring lift on my 86 wagon. Yes the axle angles are steep, but they dont bind up too much. I'm thinking of fabbing up some drop down shackles for the control arms in the back, and dropping my diff an inch in the back. As far the the struts go, I paid a shop to put the springs on the struts because I dont have a spring compressor and the honda springs are considerably stiffer than the subaru springs. You will need a set of junk rear struts from a EA82 so you have get the top caps and the bump stops and all that crap. The sensatrac struts are about 24 dollars more than the cheapo ones. They had cheapos for 18 bucks a piece or the sensatracs for 42 bucks a piece. But that is with my shops discount so I'm not sure what they are for the average person. There is a mod that you have to do to make the EA82 struts fit on your hatch. It can be found in the USRM link at the top right of the page

the stock subaru gauges were never know for being that accurate. As long as the engine isnt ticking, your oil pump is doing fine. Rear suspension, upgrade to EA82 struts and use honda accord front springs from 87 to 89 years. As for what brand, I used Monroe Sensatracs and I love em KYB is good too

I agree. I've done tons of head gaskets and its not worth the time to leave the engine in the car. it takes a half hour to pull the engine. And you can check your engine mounts, clutch disc, throwout bearing and a bunch of other stuff that you can't check with the engine in the car

I'm still trying to figure out why I'm running 2.5" smaller tires and I have more clearance in the back. You musta used a diff drop plate?

Just wanted to check with everyone with lifted soobs. please post what lift you have on, along with tire size and any other mods you did for the lift other than what came with your kit. I'm running 25.5 inch tires on 14 inch rims. 4 inch AA high clearance lift. I added 1.5 inch blocks to the front diff hanger to even out the driveline angle. I added the accord front springs to my new rear struts. measured out the rear diff clearance and I'm sittin at 14 inches even. front is about 11.5 at the oil pan.

JWX - I got a buddy that lives in Austrailia. Let me know what we need from down there and I will have him try to track it down

sko - 5 speed conversion next time.....

The seat conversion is made out to be a bigger deal than it really is. I put legacy LSI drivers seat in my wagon. It was simple. As long as the seat frame with is 17 inches, they can be easily adapted. You'll need some flat bar and some nuts and bolts. drill a few new holes in the bottom of the seat and you'll be fine. As for the seat belt, you wont be messing with those because the latch is bolted to the hump in the middle of the car and the belt itself stays with the B pillar. As for the comment on being careful doing this, I say dont worry about it. Subaru's way of bolting the seats down isnt all that great. Not to mention the bracket that the seat bolts to the floor with is made out of very thin sheet metal and its usually rusty. I've pulled subaru seats just by wiggling them side to side til the brackets broke off at the floor bolts. I have a CRX seat at my shop and a quick measure of it shows that it will fit with fairly minor modification

I think the AA guys have the pattern and I believe SRJ might have the pattern too. WJM keep my updated on how it goes. I'm rebuilding my EA82T for my RX and if it blows up this time, its getting a EJ22 as well.

get goin in reverse on dirt goin about 15 mph backwards and slam the shift lever down. Check your tire sizes. Sounds like you got a missized tire on your car, which is causing some binding issues

heh, damn electronic trannys

makes me think... I got a 90 Loyale Turbo wagon with the 4EAT

You shouldnt have hurt anything. A buddy of mine drove a Volvo 740 Wagon 15 miles @ 55mph on a rim. Front passenger side. When he finally parked it, the outer lip of the rim was completely gone, The spokes were bent around the rotor. The caliper was still good, but the rotor had to be replaced. The car did drive again

My 88 RX coupe - 76,000 miles on the body, unknown on the engine. Its a JDM engine

I run with out a skid plate with my lifted wagon. hehe, the only dent in it is from when I had to put a jack under it to pull my engine when I blew up my pilot bearing. There are tough oil pans. I'm pretty sure they are thin layer'd steel.

yeah thats a good idea. One thing a buddy of mine did, was when he welded the roll cage in his, but took that drop in plastic bedliner and urethane and bolted it on to where the bottom half of the doors used to be. It it that Door sill like a Jeep has. It will keep some water out, and keep trees and ************ from smackin ya in the hips. I like how you did the roof too, just make sure to add the roll cage to the roof section where you made that cut. You flip that thing, that roof section is gonna act like a knife

should be gettin 25+mpg on the highway I get 15 mpg with my hicrappy carb.

alignment?!?!?!?!! :lol::lol: I dont think so on a EA82. Let me see, one of the bolts is a pinch bolt and the other is just a guide bolt to make sure you have the strut facing the right direction. The top bolts can affect the alignment, if you use the chamber plates from a legacy, but stock, you arent hurting anything by unbolting the bottom of the strut from the knuckle I have never EVER had my alignment checked, 6 or 7 years of slamming axles in and out along with new tierods and balljoints when they wear out and my car drives straighter than it did before I got it. I think you are thinking of the Legacy setup for the struts. Those bolts do change the alignment if you dont mark the bolt when u take it off.

here you go.. unbolt the strut, take the caliper and rotor and the pad bracket off. Take a BFH and pound the hell out of it. It will come out. You said you are replacing the axle, so it doesnt matter if you screw the threads up on the end of the axle. If you are going to make a rebuilt axle and you need to save the threads, use a brass drift the size of the indentation in the end of the axle. These EA82 cars seem to need a lil persuasion with a hammer to get a lot of the stuff apart. I dont know where everyone keeps getting this unbolt the balljoint and tie rod stuff from. You are just making more work for yourselves. Strut, caliper, rotor, pad bracket. Good luck

my favorite feature is that fact that I've beat the CRAP out of my wagon in the last 7 years. 110,000 miles of WOT hammerin it in and out of bumps, clearing 27 foot distance off a 5 foot gravel pile. Still on my original engine and original headgaskets. heh, and I wont get started about the RX