MilesFox

I was sold on subaru when i discovered them AFTER trying to off-road grand ams and cavaliers. I have enjoyed a good 40 of them. They become a hobby right away.

I find the cheapest ones to be a generic universal in-line pump rated around 40-45 lbs. You can look one up for a ford truck with aux fuel tanks, and that will work

I like the gold snowflake wheels. These would have been original to the gt model. as mine are on my 94. I have a spare set of these i may use on my 3door with 'bright metallic gold' color, but they no longer fit on my legacy with outback brakes. IF yo are doing the coolant, fill the block by the upper radiator hose, and then the radiator. You want to get the thermostat to open, and not have an air bubble. you may have to hold the Idle open now and again when filling, and when you let off, you get a burp. Dont even worry about the overflow bottle until you are sure the engine is burped and holds a steady temp gauge. fill the overflow at the cold mark, but do not fill it all the way. I say this because if you see that it is full all of a sudden, this would be a warning about the cooling system. But these engines use normal head gaskets instead of the MLS stuff, so they are not prone to the same type of failures as the new subarus, and therefore do not require any special or new edition coolants.

Congratulations. Isnt Columbus, IN the'nashville' of brown county? My aunt lives on lake lemon near there. I used to live in northeast indiana, and subaru s were hard to come by. They seem more plentiful the closer you get to ohio. I've had 2 xt6's, but none of them were roadworthy, but i used the driveline from one in my 86 coupe, and i still have a complete, resealsed engine. Have fun and welcome!

not the oil pump. the cam tower o ring. you can put in a new oil pump, and she'll still tick if the cam tower o-rings are not taken care of. the oil pump would be the last culprit. It would be the seals before the pump, anyway. you can't really compare subarus to other cars, so what is considered common knowledge by people who know a little about cars, almost does not apply in any of the same way to a subaru.

Teh oil pump is fairly easy once you have the timing belt off. Chances are, all you need is the seals. The pumps rarely fail, unless they have been run out of oil. the oil pan can come off without undoing the motor mounts. all the 10mm bolts have a phillips head in them. there are holes in the rear of the subframe to allow a long screwdriver in there to get at the bolts. What i do is put a 1/4 extension through the hole, and then the socket. you will have to maneuver the pan around the pickup to get it out. It will be a little tight between the motor mounts, but it will pop through. here is an article for the oil pump http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm here is a video for the oil pan

It should be pointing to the right of the other cap screw hole. What mark are you using on the flywheel? the passenger side cam dot will be pointing at the hard edge of the valve cover when it is at #1 tdc. (you would have to remove the belt covers to see this)

in a gl, you have a front and rear opern differential. in a pushbutton, or dual range, you hae a pto gear that directly engages the rear diff from the front diff. So the front and rear are essentially locked together, but any one wheel on bot the front and back diff will be engaged to each other, either same side, or diagonal. If only the front or rear wheels were on the ground, one wheel will have traction, one in the air would be engaged to it. If the car had both wheels on one side in the air, it goes no where. There are gl's and rx with lockable open center diffs, and rear lsd. the rear lsd's are clutch type. But with this setup, all the power can go to either the front diff, or the rear, and will spin out whatever wheel has the least traction. With a rear LSD, all the power can go the one front wheel. When the diff is locked, it behaves like a regular 4wd. The 'awd' impreza and legacy have a viscous center diff. at slow speeds, it will act as an open diff. When there is a difference in rotation across the front and rear diffs through the center, the fluids heat up and cause the mechanism to engage, locking the front and rear diff back together, until the rotation of the front and rear diffs are matched through the center. In a 3at trans, there is no center diff, and the rear is driven by an electric solenoid to engage clutches. the 4eat is similar, the the trans control unit engages the clutches whenever there is a difference in rotation, but can release it while making turning maneuvers, and is a balance of this.

pop out the coin tray, you do not need to take up the whole console. the tray pops out, and there is your adjustment.

make sure you are not on the exhaust stroke. if you rotate 180 again to the o mark, it should be pointing at the master cylinder. the screw that holds the disty should be just off the midddle of the slot. this would not have moved while driving, unless it was installed wrong.

loyale will go with 1988 and 89 models. 90-94 loyale is the same as a gl, minus standard options(but the harness is there for them) and the only other difference is it has a 'model name' since the legacy came out in 89-90

The codes are listed in the haynes book, but they are in a different chapter than what you think it would be in. It is also posted in the USRM section of the forum (search 'trouble codes')

:clap::clap::clap::clap:

coolant in the oil will eat the bearings. an intake gasket leak would only allow coolant in the cylinder, not the oil.

I doubt rodents would get onto the belts as it is not somthing they would use for nesting, and without the covers, nothing to hide inside. I could imagine spider webs. It ius possible to spill fluids on the belts when servicing the power steering, adding oil, coolant. But you can immediately clean it off is you do spill some. At any chance you would suspect a compromise, you can easily inspect or replace a belt. Just keep a spare in the trunk, it takes 10 min to change. The idea of a belt breaking is outweighed by how easy it is to change with no covers. Plus coverless makes other service easier like the water pump, cam seal, oil pump.

your alternator died. classic symptoms of such. Or you have a loose battery cable. the check engine light is independent of this.

There was one i worked on that ticked after dong all the seals. I replaced the hla's with ones form another motor, but i did the cam tower o-rings at the same time. It does not hurt to ask what fixed what, when someone updates their fixes, we have more documentation of different examples of what actually works and what doesn't.

as far as subars and ute chops go, i have the idea to make a panel wagon form an ea82. here are my ideas: remove the seats but the driver. Replace the bottom seat with a plywood, same for the upper, so that the plywoods are essentially replacing the seat foam, and will flip up and down normally. So the bottom part of the seat plywood would be a flat surface for sideloading from the rear doors, and the upper part serves as a bukhead from the way-back. The bottom part would sever as a storage lid that you can flip up to keep loose extension cords, cables, soft items. When the bottom is flipped up, it serves as a bulkhead separating the driver area, and the back part folds down to make a completely flat area in the whole rear of the car. When configures this way, rhe rear passenger footwells will serve as storage, and be hudden under the plywood to stash a cordlsas drill or saw of some sort. For the rear side windows, remove them and panel them out with sheet metal. Or better yet, make them open up like a truck topper rear window, with locking latches. Build a roll-out work bench that stows over the rear wheel wells, and slides out with a bench vise or power stip, or as just a simple table to work from(on the curb side). and eithe panel off the back gate window, or put some sort of steel mesh on the inside or outside for security. And it would be really awesome to find some road signs, cut them and bend them just right and replace the rear door glass with them, so you have a roll up and down panel door that is more theft proof, but you can roll it down to access things in the car, keeping side loading capabilities.

lifter tick. does it sound like a sewing machine? exhaust gasket. does it sound like a misfire or half a harley when running? you are at the best forum to get info. if you look anywhere else, you will be directed here anyway. Lifter tick is caused by failed o-rings in the oil pump or the cam tower. These are relatively easy to service if you have the capacity to work on your own car. As annoying as it is, it will not break anything, although it can be down on performance with delayed valve action, but you are not breaking it if you drive it.

vacuum solenoid operation with a dual post dual throw switch on the shifter. there is a bank of solenoids on the driver firewall. one is on and one is off, alternately to allow vacuum to pull one way or the other on the 4wd mechanism. if your heater fan is only blowing out of the dash vents, then look for a loose vac hose between the canister and the passenger intake, as that hose is easy to knock loose and miss. If so, that is your problem. You can manually manipulate the 4wd diaphragm linkages to get into 4wd. if the solenoids are not working, you can swap the vac hoses to engage or disengage the 4wd, provided the vacuum system is intact. if you need to replae the solanoids, you can grab one from any other soob with a pushbutton 5spd (gl, gl-10, loyale, dl), or locking diffl(xt, rx)

There should be a mechanical fan on the WP pulley. The electric fan does come on with ac, and the relays are located on the firewall behind the strut. the fan is powered by the accessory circuit see if the fan operates with the terminal on the radiator unplugged. IF it does, it would be ac relay related. if not, the thermo switch is stuck closed(on the radiator) if you unplug it, you can make the fan come on by jumping the thermoswitch terminals. you can make a manual switch here at these connectors to override the thermoswitch.

Fuse 5 is in the fuse panel under the dash. the fuses are illustrated on the cover which # and its circuit. Does this car have an aftermarket radio? (fuse 5 supplies the green wire to the radio, which could have shorted if the install has bare wiring) If its backfiring out of the throttle, the timing could be off (loose rotor) I had a car break down, walked home, and waited 2 months to check the timing belts. Turns out is was a loose rotor the whole time; it can and does happen.

Check both fuel filters. There is the one under the hood(should be) and one mounted at the fuel pump under the car just behind the rear wheel on the passenger side. (assuming its a carb, 85-87) Good job checking the rotor, so we know it's not the timing belt(has spark) Wgen you say carb, are you referring to the throttle body? (SPFI for 1988 and up, SPFI has one fuel filter under the hood) There are a pair of green connectors on the strut tower for diagnostic purposes. these remain uplugged for normal operation. when plugged in, the fuel pump will cycle every 2 seconds. The fuel pump relay is located directly above the steering column behind the kick panel. The fuel pump relay is brown, the ignition relay is green. Check fuse #5 (horn/hazard/clock) as this supplies a 12v constant to the ECU Check the fuse links under the hood in the little black cover next to the battery cable. Does the car start with starting fluid? 220 thousand miles is enough for some work to be warranted, but there is also another 100,000 miles of life left in the engine if everything is current with maintenance. So you have spark, and the rotor is turning. Make sure the rotor is not loose, as there is a small screw that secures it in place, and if the screw fell out, the rotor will not be in the right position. watch the subaru maintenance videos to go through the timing sequences to be sure the rotor is in the right direction

I had a tercel that was caved oin on one side, it leaked, and the carpets were wet and moldy. I ripped them out to let the thing dry. the floors were starting to rust. Idid the wiring a favor be being exposed to dry. i removed the seats and used tis car a s a rolling toolbox/dumpster bin hauling to the scrapyard and to construction jobs. never had a problem with anything being exposed. I wanted to cut the decklid and rear window out to make a ute. enough about the toyota, this is a subaru board.