MilesFox

i've had too much fluid in a 3at, enough that it was puking out of the fill tube

being a 1986 in such clean condition, this would be a rarer package, first year for that body style, almost a gl-10 but not quite. This car may have some collector value to the serious enthusiast, at least to me. If i had this car, it would get collector plates and be a garage queen. Please preserve it as a classic exame, and don't ruin it with futile mods, since it is an ea82 engine. I am so jealous when someone randomly finds a gem looking for a subaru and doesn't know it, while i battle rust and scour the earth for parts to have a car that is not quite as good

I was more or less being sarcastic. but then again i smoke cigarettes while changing fuel pumps, put my smoke out in a puddle of gasoline, ad drove cross country with aleaky gas tank and fuel cans integrated in my fuel system. I am joking here........because i am still alive.

If the hill holder is too tight, the rear brake will stick for a moment after reversing. your front brake may just be a bad piston. the woosh woosh or squeek squeek may be prelude to a bad wgheel bearing. if the wheel bearing gets bad enough, the rotor sits off plane and the outer edge can rub against the caliper bracket, cause the pads to wear at a slant(which affects the ride of the piston ), and make the squeal tabs do their thing prematurely. first, check the axle nut torque, second, make sure the axle nut washer is not on backward. 3rd, jacking up the wheel and wiggling it may prove a bad bearing. BUT i must say, with the double roller style bearing, it is possilbe to have a bad bearing, but no freeplay in the wheel. I would gear up to replace the wheel bearing if i was you with your symptoms. don't forget to turn the piston in when servicing the caliper. forcing it in with a c clamp will wreck the parking lever mechanism. I hope you knew this, because this could be t eh problem if the piston was forced in without turning.

of course i know how it works, and even know how to adjust it. What you mised, it that i was saying the hill holder ties to the REAR wheels, if the front brakes are sticking, this has nothing to do with the hill holder. and caliper slide pins are the ost likely culprit for an dragging caliper

FWD or 4wd? there is a difference in lenght between the 2. maybe you hae the wrong cable. try saking a lugnut in there to take up the slack. the cable should only be tight enough to take the freeplay out of the clutch fork. the clutch fork should not have tension from the cable at reast.

Check your pm. just tight enough that the side of the belt opposite of the tesioner is taut. see how she rund, and listen for a knocking sound at the disty. backlash will cause a knocking at the disty, and a jumpy tach. if you do not have these symptoms, you are good.

hill holder has to do with the rear brakes. a stuck front brake has to do with misadjustment of the parking lever, or it's just a bad/seized caliper. caliper pistons will seize if the pads get so lo and hyper extend, and then the exposed piston rusts. a more likely situation, which may be rectified without replacing the caliper, is a rusty slide pin. remove the caliper, steel wool the slide pins and clean them well, and apply syl-glide silicone grease to the slide pins, and around the boot on the piston. this may fix your dragging caliper.

The facebook and twitter thing is a good idea, because by now, if not doing so, that is a boat that had been missed in this day and age of the internet. aside from 80's soobs and retrofits, this is the most appropriate forum for the general public who own subarus, and come here to learn about their car, where nasioc is not their fancy since it is performance oriented(and can be rude) and other forums are not general enough or as broad with knowledge. This site shoul be popping up in google searches for subarus before all of the dealer cars for sale or generic parts wholesalers that have subaru in the meta tags. after all, this IS the original subaru community on the internet, and should remain that way for those to come.

because if you turn the crank independent of the cams, you can collide the valves. best to have it all lined up before starting, or you will be stuck!

the fuel lines run down behind the dash to the rocker sills and then to under the back seat. they are inside the car, behind the plastic shroud under the carpet. perhaps there is some rust? parhaps there is fuel being pushed out or gravity siphoned up the vent line. Is the fuel cap on? Interesting and odd circumstance, i would say its coincidental with the rain being so severe, and a pre-existing fuel leak.

Normal ea82 idle speed is about 750-800 rpm. If the car is stalling, maybe the advance is too low. Timing should be at 20 deg, be sure to plug the green connectors to use a timing light. fuel pump bolts break, just expect that. zip ties work, they make metal ones. be prepared to reinstall the fuel pump when it gets pulled off from off road. you will get used to peole seeing your fuel pump dangling 1/4 inch off the road by its hoses while you are driving.

1. Towing cars 2. unrusting the 3door 3. cleaning up and piecing together xt6 parts for swap probably sunday

Sure Thing! I can even have a sticker for you... Did you have to repair the framerails underneath? this is my biggest problem on this whole car...... Today i busted down the xt6 crossmember to use in my 3door with xt6 control arms, swaybar, and 91 turbo legacy steering rack. compared to the FWD 1986 crossmember, the xt6 has t holes versus one, either for right hand drive, and also for the fitment of the P/S lines. on the xt6, they run along the top of the crossmember, whereas on the 91 steering rack, the fittings come u thru the 2nd hole. I have seen where others had to make the hole to use impreza or legacy steering rack in an ea82. With this, i have a question regarding the xt6 steering rack: Will an xt6 steering rack be compatible with ATF for steering fluid, being that the original fluid is the gold cybris stuff? i can go both ways, depending on if the xt6 will work with atf, and if on ehas an advantage over the other with steering ratios. I am also aware that i am going to have to drill holes in the xt6 crossmember because they are spaced farther apart. the motor mount holes seem to be in the same place, but have more flat area for a larger mount. I am also still on the fence between using an ej22 or an er27. the er27 i already have, but need to figure out of a p/s pump can fit on it, or i am forced to use cybrid, as long as the firewall can fit the pump. I am also planning to use 91 legacy turbo front rotors and calipers on the xt6 knuckle. I will lose my parking brake, though. I also am aware that the xt6 caliper will fit the turbo rotors, if i decide to keep it. Maybe i will go xt6 caliper for now, until i can retrofit a rear parking brake, of go with a hydraulic handbrake(if it can be used for parking) or maybe even modify the hill holder as a hydraulic rear parking brake I also noticed it's possible to double up the trans mounts, using the ones form the FWD on the front part of the crossmember of the xt6 trans

I would say check for corrosion and clean the contacts in the connector. second, there is a variable resistor inside the throttle pos sensor, with copper brushes that ride against them. I would suggest disassembling the TPS and cleaning the contacts and the resisotor strips(like a printed circuit) I have had these troubles and cleaned them with better results. I have seen corrosion inside these units as well. use an electrical contact cleaner and some dielectric grease, or swap out the whole TPS from a less mile/newer/less corroded donor car.

looks very nice! may i ask what you used for a welder or technique to get such pretty beads. I have work yet to do to the rear rollpan seams where they meet the quarter panel, and the wheel arch lips. I would like to do as nice a weld as possible to use the least or no amount of bondo possible. I would use quick-steel or something similar if i had to fill metal. I would like to see more of your work, and you are welcome to post in my thread!

disty may be 180 off. cams may be 180 out of phase. what did you use for a reference on the timing belts. if you just lined up all the dots and put both belts on, this is your problem.

run 2 mpfi's with a custom manifold and 2 injectors per cylinder. forged pistons head studs instead of bolts, impossible find, one off custom order somehow make 2 water pumps or some way to run coolant for each side of the engine segregated.

whoops, i did not know this was a 4eat. i was assuming a 5spd for some reason. I still need the engine myself, but i need a trans to supplememt desmond while i use the xt6 trans

that is what they call an upsell. if the shop does brakes, take up the 'free' inspection so they can tell you that you need new calipers, too. Try to find a ma and pa shop, or stick strictly to the immediate repair without the up-sells.

SOLD. i will make arrangements to come get by this weekend. hopefully the GMC is up to the task, otherwise i will have to ask tom to use his hitch with a trailer rental. this will work for me, the trans will go in the brat, and i will use the motor in my 3door, and i already have an obd2 harness from a 95.

I pulled the whole running gear from the car. There is rust on the framerails and some corrosion by battery acid. some clever work will result.

Make it a TrashWagon

your most likely scenarios are overheat(best have a newer thermo, change any soft hoses, topoff coolants, and carry the leftovers as spare.) ..and flat tires (road debris, old tires, bad belting) Carry 2 spares if you can, if you are rolling on less than newer tires) Expect to use a quart of oil or 2. make a habit to check oil at every fill up. sustained highway driving does use oil naturally through the PCV