MilesFox

the only reason i have a brat in wisconsin is because it came from virginia. all the ones from here rusted in half before anyon eknew about them. and this one is probably too rusty by VA standards, but is within 'clean body" standards for wisconsin. and then you PNW folks who think your cars will buckle in half over some flash rust.....

so this is the history of the brat. i would have never known. once we picked it up from the babe rally i swapped out the 175 h-style wheels on the brat withthe 185 h-style wheels on the trashwagon, so now both cars have the right tires insted of 10mph speedo differences between the 2. i picked up a hi-topper and another front axle from tomrhere over the weekend, and hauled back an ej22 and an xt6 tranny. turns out a legacy i was looking to purchase was sold out from under me....to the parts guy at the soob dealer....who called me looking for a motor. the brat has been great. i found a gross vac leak and replaced the rear fuel filter and now she is getting a good 28 mpg all day long. i have already located a front fender and steel chrome bumpers from an 82 dl wagon that sits at a farm in northern wisconsin. i already have the center console form the same car, so now i have an ashtray and a cubby where the driver side speaker was, but still no radio. according to tom, ea82 seats bolt right in as he showed me in his red nevada brat, and i have my choice of rx seats or xt seats already modded for ea82. so now i know where thst goofy dent came from. still need to bleed the front brake, she is a little darty on abrupt stops. rear shocks are floppy but i would like to mod in ea82 coilovers with the rust reapir in the wheel wells. i'm depating if this car is candidate for TRASHBRAT or unofficially TRASHWAGONX (10) i am half tempted to swap in my rx tranny and rear end along withthe 5 lugz, and the possiblility of ea82t. if so, this woulod be the height of ea evolution and would properly be trashwagon10 from an evolution standpoint. although i would like to do something different with a paint job this time...

if that trans can make it over to jim wood or alleyboy(john0 then i can bring it as far as wisconsin, and maybe MN

put on the side of the belt opposite of the tensioner and let the slack side go towards the tensioner, work in that direction. otherwise if you have slack that could make the marks not appear right. the notch on the timing belt covers line up with the cam cover seals although you can install the passenger belt with the cam dot facing down atfter installing the first belt, you are better off rotating the crank 360 degrees and installing the belt cam dot up so the cam is at rest with the valvetrain

i have installed several legacy hitches at u-haul. the holes on the side of the hitch will bolt thru the tow hooks with metal spacers for to give it sturdiness. the holes on the top of the hitch will bolt thru holes on the bodt into the captive nut thingy in the photo. the holes you will use will be the rubber plugs you pop out from the framerail. in order to get the captive nut thingy where you want it, lift up the carpet in the back and pop out the rubber plugs on that side to feed it thru. if you have too much difficulty, you can go to the nearest u-haul and they should be able to print you off the instructions. whatever part number you have will be the same on eon u-haul inventory. otherwise they might have to mock a install quote to get the part number, then the instructions hope this helps

the only variations with exhausts is the mid pipe between 2wd and 4wd. an ea82 y-pipe will work also, but it will hang lower then the ea81 with the spacer plates on the exhaust ports. a full ea82 exhaust should all fit the same. otherwise there should be no difference between any ea81 y pipe, except for those that have an o2 sensor.

The state of Wisconsin refuses to acknowledge the brat as a passenger vehicle, so i had to chuck the money for truck plates. the brat does have jump seats, as it came from the factory to avoid TRUCK tarriffs. i guess it's no big deal, but i would have rather used an existing plate for my car i sold rather than buy a new plate. and for states that prohibit passengers in the back of a truck, would it still be legal to ride in the jump seats? wisconsin classifies the brat as a truck because it has an open bed. the subaru dealer insists it should be an AUTO UT registration. there are suv's with car plates in wisconsin. the dealer also made mention of the ford explorer sport trac, with it's open bed, is still a passenger vehicle. and that they also have been registering new BAJA's as auto ut as well. so how about you all brat owners? car or truck plates?

this car was originally FWD 3at. the 5spd is a conversion. if it had rx trans and 5 lugs it would be the ultimate ea82 package!

your best bet is to go find a junkyard motor. you could have one for as little as 100 bucks if you take apart your motor, tou have time and tools involved to split the case and pull wrist pins. you will need the bearings and head gaskets and engine seals. if you find a junkyard motor(carb motors with 8.5 compression, 85-86 nad some 87's) you will only need to take the heads off, basically a head hgasket job as it would be, swapping all the turbo heads and intakes. find the ones with broken timing belts. this means that is why they are junked instead of bad head gaskets. running ea82s get junked over broken axles and bad clitches, check FWD's and manual cars you could probably gety away with an spfi block (9.5 compression) but you will have to make sure the knock sensor functions and the timing is not advanced, and better gas.

here is the battery relocated using an ea82 motor. otherwise use ea82 battery cablesto the starter and connect the fuse link lead to the alternator. the original wiring on the car still sends current thru the fuse block. the terminal where the stock fuse link lead was can be used to connect a 2nd battery(to power the car but not the starter, unless you bridge the battery pos terminals like a diesel truck)

just off hand based on doing trailer wiring on many makes i would think that green is tail black is ground green/yel turn green/red brake blue/red reverse but i am just guessing

i was going to suggest this. make sure the plug ins are connected at the carburetor and the related fuses are good. the fuel pump control unit senses coil spark to kick on the fuel pump while running. take off the line and see if fuel comes out while cranking. otherwise you can connect the fuel pump relay to something that comes on with the key, such as the +coil rerminal

a/8' socket extension fits in the polit hole. wrap the extension in tape to meet the diameter of the clutch disc

on the fuel rail, the line topmost in th emiddle is the supply line, the other is the return line. the smallest of the 3 hoses is the charcoal canister vent line from the tank.

fuel pump? you can plug a fuelpressure gauge to the hose into the filter and plug in the green test clips to cycle the fuel pump. test it there, then after the regulator(while running the fuel pressure regulator is on the return side of the fuel injectors

turbos with 3at automatics are 23 splines with the larger diameter DOJ. doj's are swappable.

i have decided to stick with the xt6 knuckle. i finally have all 4 wheels on and off the jackstands. my only problem now is the spindle seat where it meets the rear bearing seal, its sortof crammed inthere now. i noticed i have 2 different axles, both from an legacy, butone is thisnner with a smaller dia. DOJ. i could not get the skinnt axle in because it did not move inward enough to install the bakk joint stud(reamed out control arms) i am wondering if this axle i ended up with was for a fwd legacy or some sort of awd impreza? i will have to get pics soon. as for the parking brake, the knuckle and caliper are all xt6 now.

cam tower o-ring: notice the dab of silicone on the o-ring itself to hold it in place during installation

they can break if you are too brute with them. what are you using for tools. i find the best method outside of an impact is to use a 1/2" dr ratchet or breaker bar and enough extension to bring your tool outside of the wheel well, use a pipe for leverage. you dont want to turn the wrench faster than the bolt or it can twist off. use steady even torque and dont reef on the tool too fast. do noy use jerking or bouncing type forces against it. slow sand steady is the trick, and be sure to keep yout tool square on the bolt. soak in some pb blaster or other non-wd40 spray. turn the bolt out what you can untill it gets too tight, then work it back in, work it in and out, as you do this it will help to clean off the threads as it goes back and forth. spray the exposed threads as you do this. i learned that trick form stubborn semi trailer wheel studs! just take your time, it will give withthe right coaxing. don't force it!

dont forget there is an oil pump shaft seal. there is also an undersize replacement seal as trhe seal can wear a groove on the shaft. you can also set the seal so it is not riding on the groove. withthe timing belts off, you can spin up the oil pump pulley with a 12mm socker on a drill or impact, clockwise. here is an article if that helps: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

i have put an ea82 carb motor in an ea81. i also put in the ea82 5spd to go with. otherwise you have to enlarge the flywheel holes or mix and matuc pressure plates. as far as the other way around goes, i have put ea81 in a turbo ea82 car body. either way you will have to hack the waring harness into the car. you could very well go with an ej22 with all the work involved, and then slap on your typical aftermarket wrx junk

take off the exhaust at the y pipe flange. mate a flange to a 2 " cherry bomb right after the y pipe and run straight pi;e to the rear. bump the timing up a few degrees. the ea82 isnt the most powerful motor in the world, but they do like rpm's and are quite fun! do like i say withthe exhaust and you will have a fat midrange curve, open up the top end a little more but not lose much bottom end at the same time. its not your typical 'wrx' and you can't really 'tune' it in the modern sense, but you can put it together any way you like from parts off just about any other subaru. its like a big set of legos, and you get to drive it

you may search about it, since i remember over time reading mentions of it. sorry i dont have a direct answer, and this is not your typical "just search it" response.

i have noticed that the front valence bolts will be 12 or 10 mm depending on year. but the holes locations are the same. i recommend pulling hte bumper off furst if you are changing fenders, since the front most bolts are bhind the bumper skin

there is a product called ZRC Galvilite zinc paint that is 95% zinc content. if you paint over your repair with that, the zinc in the paint will corrode isntead of the steel turning into rust, it will alt least prolong the whole corrosion process