MilesFox

** I learned that the washer fluid would siphon out, the valve prevents this. It is wired in parallel with the pump. I run old used antifreeze in the bottle in the winter. the nissan part may be the same OE manufacture for the valve. that is just gross, like nasty (unless you meant the smokesreen:rolleyes:

i would offer a stack even, put on a timing belt and do the brakles, and keep it! if you keep the car it willlast a while, especially with new brakes and good tires, and the interior and body are nice and the rust is minimal. i know you PNW guys would junk a car over the pictured rust spot but somewhere like wisconsin,or the rust belt in general, you would expect a small amount of rust anyway. that would be a 1500 1750 dollar car easy appearance wise if you were to sell it around here at least(WI) based on the asking price the seller would probably expect to take 1000 even. if there is not a lot of other buyers and the car i still around go back and offer 800. take 1000 cash with you and if she doesnt take 800 as an offer, show her the money and say take it or leave it

tht wold be 14mm.if you have a 13 mm bolt its really a 1/2' and isnt original. sorry, but i had to point that out, since the whole car is 10, 12, or 14 under the hood

from what i have read the ea82 has a 92 mm bore. and an ej18 is obviously 1.8 liters. according to other reading the ej18 bore is the same as the 20 and the 22 do ea82 turbo pistons swap in? what would compression ratios be. if the ea82t is 7.7:1, and carb is 8.5, and spfi is 9.0(or is it 9.5) then... what would be the compression ratios of a normak ej18, an ej22, and whatever various WRX motors there are. and head interchangeability? basically the idea in mind is to put an ej18 turbo in an rx as if it were the normal ej retrofit with stock wrx or mild aftermarket parts.

ok that is more the answer i sas looking for. because i already have an rx with its driveline, and a junk 95 legacy transmission with a bad gearset(5th should be ok) and the differentials are still good. as far as the ej18 stuff isnt it a 92mm bore like the ea82? i'll have to start another thread for this. and for that notion it would make more sense to build the rx gears up with lo range into the ej transmission case. the donor car i have my legacy trans received a 93 trans in it's place, ans so far it looks the 95 and 93 casings are identical externally.

i have actually seen aftermarket caps that have been numbered wrong on the terminals since other makes(nussan)used the same distributor. the terminal on the capclosest to the master cylinder is #1,just to the right of the screw/clip that holds it on. rotation is counter clockwise and firing order is 1-3-2-4 the #1 on the motor itself is the front passenger side, 3 being in the rar, and 2 and 4 being on the driver side, 2 in front, 4 in back

ok i got lost there between both replies. so if oyu puyt the ej rear diff and casing on the rx tranny is there still a dual range or not?

athough donuting nicely, the driving looks more random than coordinated. and i dont get how people can do 360's, do them on accident even, and i can't figure out how to do them on purpose! aside from the random driving the videography was rather wellf or the ol' random u-tube flick

have some fun with it along the way!

i read thru to page 14 but there was a brief mention about center diffs. so that prompts me to question: will the vlsd from a 95 legacy type transmission swap in place of the RX full time 4wd 5swpd d/r center diff to make it true AWD with lo range? and if so, can the original diff lock be made to work with a legacy vlsd center? and with that having lds rear, put in lsd front, 5 lugs, an EJ18 with ea82 turbo pistons and wrx turbo.........oops i started to dream

if the car is a FWD 5spd then the 4wd clutch will be to large at the input shaft. resurfacing the flywheel is not necessary as long as it's not burned up or scored. tou can use one of them round sanding discs thatmount on a drill chuck to clean it up. the 2wd flywheel has to stay with a 2wd transmission. the 4wd flywheel and clutch will not work unless you swap in the 4wd transmission and with not much more work than removing the original transmision, you may as well just swap in the 4wd! it will all bolt in the same and you would have all the parts necessary.

take a look at the o-rings at all the nylon lines that run to the top of the front struts and the rear struts. the compressor is in the driver's side fender, if you do have a leak you may find it there. typically a wiggl of the lines will reseat the o-rings, or you can apply some silicone grease to them

this board is really the original subaru board and the folks on this board are true subaru enthusiasts. anyone with older soobs now or past really are the ones who really understand what a subaru is, how it works, and what it is for, and the culture that goes with it. not like the typical other boards which spring up comprised of car enthusiasm based on video game car fandom. and a lot of the usernames i recognize on other boards are originally members here. this is where we come from. and if you werent from here you WILL eventually end up at usmb. this is the ULTIMATE subaru message board, most appropriately named

just to make sure, since it hasnt been mentioned, is once the timing belts are aligned to the 3 marks and a full rotation cycle(a 2nd crank rotation AFTER lining up the 2nd belt) rotate teh crank until 0deg mark comes around and then line the disty. according to your other posts it appears correct with your description of the cam dots near 45 deg. the dot ont he passenger cam will line up with the hard edge on the valve cover, and the rotor points at the master cylinder. make sure the ecu fuse is good and the ign fuse is good. the creen connectors will cycle the fuel pump on and off when connected. once you set the disty itself at the 0deg mark, you plug in the green connectors to set the static timing with the timing light. the black wire on toe coil goes to the positive terminal, and the yellow wires go to the negative terminal. have a look at that

i have delivered pizza 4 subarus. as far as choosing one a fwd 5spd will get the best mpg but other than that nothing more than typical subaru maintenance. the car itself does rather well, especially in snow.

i agree what GLOYALE says, since i just read the rest of this topic AFTER posting my reply at the NPR board: Re: Update - 2003 Subaru timing belt replacement concerns 1 2 3 4 5 rating_830888.className = 'rated' + Math.round(0.0); //alert(Math.round(0.0)); in reply to the last thread, when the car is stopped in ger, with the brake on, there is still torque going thru the axle. and with the equal lenght of the axles the torque is going to go thru to the least path of resistance, being any SLOP in the doj or cv of the defective axle. for you who doubts this maybe it wouldnt prevail on a dideways mount engine with UNEQUAL lenght axles. and yes i am from USMB.

if you had the distributor out or the cams apart refr the the procedure in this link. the article refers to 4 cyl but th eprocedure would be the same for the xt6 in regards to timing and cam marks positions http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 aside from that, make sure the MAF, TPS and o2 are functioning correctly. the haynes book forgets to tell you to rotate the crank between installing the belts for each cam

stich to the 97 or prior legacy as the later models were prone to heag gasket problems. but then again the later models with problematic mothrs will swap in a n older 2.2 plug and play. suppose you can find a newer one with a bad motor for a good price and find a junker 2.2 that still has life in it.

i dont get how gm needs an australian version of itself to inspire them to come out with something new but already exists. that is like subaru of america designing something with a bench seat for fat people and cupholders then subaru of japan finds that innovative

just a shot in the dark but try cleaning the MAF. sometimnes they can be out of whack and not throw a code. or try swapping in another one. and make sure all the connecotors are clean, as this causes problems with things like the engine temp sensor

looking at this picture there appears to be more sharply of an angle with thelower control arms on the red ones. i put forester struts in my leganus, it seemed to bring the fron tup but the back doesnt seem any higher. but then again the rear suspension was shot and the springs are worn. i have LOTS of travel in the rear so i'm sure i can get another 3 inches of wheel clearance by using taller springs and spacers

zap, your link to the board goes to a pastor's conference. you put USMB instead of ultimatesubaru. dont go confusing these guys!

really, for that price i would come out there and fix it for you. aside from the traveling i would do the whole job for less tha what he wants for the FPR

ok. your mechanic is telling you you need a distributor because there is no spark. he is telling you you need a fuel regulator because there is no fuel. the timing belt is broken, thus not turning the disty, thus no spark thus no fuel tell him, no, i need a timing belt. take the car elsewhere and pay for the tow. obviously this mechanic either doesnt know about subarus or is trying to rip you off. and chances are if he does the timing belt he will forget to rotate the caenk(because there are 2 cams on 2 cylinder banks) and then tell you you have bent valves after charging you more than the car is worth. its a subaru, not some chevy or ford, dry to stay away from domestic only mechanics if you can if you want to take a crack at trhe timing belt yourself its really not that difficult with prober instructions http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm this article is also posted in this message board's repair section. to verify the timing belt is broken, take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning when you crank the starter

yes, you could swap in the 2.2. should plug and play but at least you can swao the intake over if necessary. 2.2 should not be hard to find out of some wreck or junker, generally they go for 200,000 miles before they need anything serious(water pump) if you have heard of cindy's subaru heaven in cambridge i'm sure you could get a fairly low mile motor from them, although the guy is a but stubborn to haggle with. but if you find a 2.5 legacy with a bad motor and a good price then overall it would be worth the trouble