MilesFox

the is a bank or felays on the passenger side firewall near the vacuum canister that is AC related. inspect the wires around that location

now that is not correct, if you read my comment i said trashwagon5, which had an ea82 engine and ea82 4wd 5spd with ea82 suspension parts as well and it was a fwd 5spd ea81 to begin with i only had to cut out around the transmission. the motor will fit fine. but it is tight around the distributor/master cylinder so you will have to remove the disty to install the motor then put it back in.

the cracks between the valves are normal. you can try to close them up with a small punch or chisel, and tamp the edges lightly with a hammer

i used to have a car just like that. it wasa colorado car with the carter weber, fwd 5spd, same color. and for 83 the 4 headlights and the crome bumper. it was called trashwagon5

if your stereo console is not unified with the shifter console you could out an ea82 console in there without it looking terribly ill if you are using the ea82 4wd lever. the 2 screws uner the handbrake cover will match up.

the code 6 you got was identifying your car. it would have a series of long then short flashes to designate codes like 3-6, etc. the lifter tick could be due to the oil pump seal. you would have to take the belts off but it wouldnt hurt to get that farinto the motor at leeast to familiarize yourself wityh the layout. take off the egr valve and clean it good. you may have to re-gasket the exhaust flanges as far as exhaust noise. be careful with torque. use new stids and loc-tite(red). use the orange copper silicone or the copper spray to seal the gaskets you can get new studs in the HELP aisle in the adcance auto zone type store. 10mm x 1.25 "import exhaust studs" comes in sets of 2 with nuts. read some of this: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

as i posted over on xt6.net the best way to care for a spray paint job is to spray it down with any of the spray on type protectants. i myself use the bulk concentrate mix-to-a spray bottle tire shine like the stuff they use at u-haul for tires, dashboards, and plastic trim, or like the stuff they use at detailers or auto dealers. best applied immediately after a wash when the car is still wet. if the paint oxidized burnish it down by hand with dry paper towels and wd-40. it works good on rubber trim and the dashboard too!. wd will also remove old window tint sticky.

*thread highjack within topic* so what kind of average speed do you do on the highway. in my 4wd converted sedan i keep the rpms at about 3200, a touch below 65 mph on 185/70 tires the 87 fwd 5spd i do about closer to 3500 rpms a touch above 65 mph on 175 70 tires the sedan gets about 26-28 mpg. the best i ran it for mileage was out of gas thru chigaco and got 457 miles on a full tank, with the car loaded down to the brim

it reminds me of a carter weber especially with the goofy fuel fitting. a hitachi will have 4 nuts on studs holding the carb ro the intake, the c/w will have a bolt on the side, a stud, and a bolt with a nut on the bottom side of the intake flange i liked the carter weber but becareful of " floppy carb syndrome". the throttle plates bolt on from underneath and the screws are accessible when you take the carb off, and those tend to lose thread and hence forth your carb is floppy with mad vacuum leakage. although i would most likely blame this condition on previous mechanics who like tho over-torke domestic junk

you can get a heavy duty trans cooler at u-haul for about 40 bucks. super easy to install. every 10 degrees in temp rise reduces the life of the trans by half

that is a heavier tire than on the front of my u-haul truck. what is that like 3500 lb per tire(3800 duals)

i kike the home-made welded up strut cap lifts, it looks better than the one i built. if you are just lifting the struts, you shoould try to lift the crossmember slightly by stacking washers between the car and the crossmember, as much as you are allowed by the nuts threading all the way through with a good 3-4 threads showing. you could get a good 3/4" inch on the crossmeber-to body if not almost an inch. then tack weld up the washers to eachother. on the radius rod plates you can stack washers to get about 1/4" to 1/2" to help compensate with the front. lifting the struts alone will make the axle angle sharper than stock, premature wear. spacing the fram will help make up for this. you might have to loosen the anti pitch bar and tweak a few lines just a tiny bit)

i had never seen bad head gaskets leak coolant no matter how much you cook them, driving on a bad water pump. when the bushing goes bad the water pump will leak out of ots weep hole. the pulleys could break off or the wobble is so bad(squalling belts) the impeller grinds its face off

i had to do this off the side of the road once with no tools aftr the font diff mount broke of the suspension tube frame. it was a drn'd flippen mess, i had to toss the diff in the trunk of mysedan and tie up the driveshaft with a coat hanger, leaving the shaft part of the axles to dangle as they were still connected at the outer end(its like on the front, no retainer rings) and continue on for better than 200 miles in the salt belt(ohio, indiana) building or junking soobs i have found the best method for RUSTED ON cups-to-studs is to take the diff and axles out as a unit, and use a propane torch and plenty of PB with a 3 lb hammer and whack, rotate, whack rotate. it works! use some anti-seize when going back together

my 87 fwd 5spd gets an average of 31.2 mpg, that is about 460 miles on 14 gallons of fuel. if i fill it till she clicks i will get about 75-85 miles before the needle starts to move. when the light cvomes on i can get about 30-40 miles before its critical. i can drive from madison to milwaukee and back on about 10 bucks worht of gas (150 miles) this is with an ecs light that comes on once the car warms up. 175/70 tires

actually it points to the master cylinder/brake booster the rotation is counter clockwise:clap:

subarus were rare enough in my parts that between me and my buddies we would have higher per-capita population of subarus than anywhere else in the state. it would be ultra rare to see 2 subarus at the same time in traffic, even with newer gen soobs. but you would see a number of buicks or pontiacs at the same time, or everyone's cars in town came from the same dealer

the longevity of the finish will only be as good as the paint quality. the cheaper 99cent wal mart paints will oxidize after a while. krylons and rustoleums are much better to the elements. you can use the higher quality paints ove the cheaper wal-mart primer. enamel paints finish out better but take longer to dry. i like to use a bullk concentrate tire shine (in a spray bottle) like they use at u-haul or some car dealers to "wax" the finish after washing

you have to lift everything equally. the body itself will be lifted from all the crossmembers, to keep the axle alignment true. the suspension geometry will remain the same as the body itself sits up. then you have room for larger tires

i wanted to ask a question "will it fit on a trashwagon" but appearently my login name is taken or i have forgotten a password. i thought that would have been funny

from what i have been told is the 2.2 is a direct plug and play. that simple

probably a "turbo traction" wagon ea82t 3at 4wd

as time goes by and things go mainstream, it wont be too long before you see the news anchorman or some politician with piercings and tattoos.

it will be where the small black wire on the battery termnal leads to, at least on an 83

the very same spot on my car, in your picture, where you see the bolt that holds the triangle shaped strut rod bracket, does not exist on my car. to reiterate, there is no bolt there because there is no metal there for it to go into! but my car has been to iowa nad back and baja'n in ohio. i have actually seen worse. generally with these cars they look all rusted out on the outside and are clean underneath. wheras another car looks clean outside and rusted out underneath ever see under the hood of an older low miles car vs an older high miles hood, the lo miles car is rustier because it hasnt leaked anything to keep a light film of oil on anything if your car leaks, its kind of like rust proofing i know of farmers that spray the undersides of thir equipment with diesel fuel once a year to prevent rust