MilesFox

Although the fluid level may not drop, she should still take on more as the engine is running. Once you fill the reservoir, she should still take on a full quart if the lines were dry. I presume you know to use ATF and not conventinal steering fluid. Good luck

Brand will be determined by where you shop. A lot of the same manufactured parts go into different boxed depending on their outlet.

loose terminals or poor charging would be my guess.

I prefer haynes over chiltons as chiltons is too broad where haynes is more specific to the vehicle type. Aside from the photos in the haynes book, a lot of the diagrams are borrowed from the FSM, and the electrical schematics are fairly comprehensive

If it's not the wheel bearing, it could be sloppy bushings on teh inner pivot point for the control arm. Could possibyy be a broken control arm if it's rusted through, but not expected in a PNW climate. Wheel bearings can be vague feeling as it has been documented here. See if the trailing link on the outside of the trailing arm is twisting when you put weight on the car, or if that bushing is smacked as well.

The wheels would be more available than the 5 lug parts to use them. You would have to source an xt6 for the rear hubs and front control arms. You could substitue an impreza or legacy hub and strut up front, but you will have to hog out the ball joint hole on the control arm. There is no substitute for the rear xt6 bubs unless you go with a conversion kit adapting it to later model brakes. I could imagine there being cast-off wheels from the xv if people are buying aftermarket wheels. Everything you need to know search '5 lug swap'. This assumes the xv wheels are 5x100 bolt pattern.

Maybe you could tie a bale wire or similar around it to keep it tight to the trans if the bolt will keep it aligned properly. OR some kind of strap, perhaps. The wire would be more discreet

90-95 ej22e.

Are you removing the fluid each time? If so, you should keep adding it as you steer back and forth to fill it up and bleed the air out.

Subarus with a cig lighter require the key on accessory or run position to be live. Probably true with USB port as well

wheel bearings

There is a difference in ea82 hoods. But only with the washer nozzles. 85 and 86 have them in the cowl, 87 and up has them in the hood. The cowl is swappable to match either or. Good luck

Sounds like an oem gasket, or t least one manufactured by the oem supplier. Your choices are that, paper, or no gasket and utra grey or similar.

EA81 wheels *should* clear calipers on 85 and 86 ea82's

You may want to unplug the engine harness and its mounting bracket to swing it out of the way for better clearance. There is also a small elbow hose to get at it as well. It's not much work other than i tight space. It's the kind of space yuu can get your tool on it, but no room to turn it! The easiest way to get it out would be to use a deep wall 17mm socket with an extension so that you can have room to swing your tool. Good luck

Possible the torque converter to flexplate bolts are becoming loose. if they back out at all, they will hit on the bellhousing.

The difference is the clutch cable if the car was originally FWD. The threaded end on the FWD cable is a different length. I have used a lug nut as a spacer to correct this. Otherwise find the proper 4wd clutch cable and it should fit just right.

The coolant sensor won't necessarily trip a code, unless it is didsconnected, shorted out, or failed open circuit. The car may think it is at normal operating temp during a cold start, and not metering fuel appropriately, metering theIACV, etc. It's a $23 dollar part, may as well replace it. If the fan is running constantly, it has failed or has a bad connection. Inspect the terminal for corrosion. Unplug it and see what happens during a cold start.

Either of those 2 cars i would snatch up at the drop of a hat. low miles (anything under 200,000) and no rust! Plus, driveline and engine parts are compatible thru 1998 subaru legacy. Rear struts are different in 95-98, but swap the top hats and it fits. This gives you the option of using forester or outback suspensions for lift. Either of those 2 cars can be worth 1,000-1,500 and 1,500-2,000 in my neck of the woods considering how clean they are. Good luck!

You should replace the bolts ONLY if they are excessively corroded. I am only suggesting this if the engine has had a bad head gasket for so long. Otherwise, it is common practice to re-use them as it is not necessary to replace them. I can only recall one head bolt failure reported here, and that was due to corrosion. Otherwise take a wire wheel to them and clean them up, and oil the threads upon installation

Yes, replace the tensioners at least. The belt more often fails from bad pulleys than the belt itself. The water pump coul probabyl ride it out till 200,000 mi, but do it anyway if you are in there. You are better off re-using the original thermostat than using an autozone or what have you cheap aftermarket. PArts should be around 375 altogether with belt kit incl tensioners and idlesrs, and a water pump. Some kits are available that include the water pump. PAy the money for a good gates brand timing kit over some cheap chinese. good luck

That is a pcv line and the PCV valve itself. The CTB clamp present is correct for that hose. The pcv hose is a vinyl hose, best to use oem part if available.

I'll look into that. Thank for the idea

Consider the plug wires may be failing, and replace only with NGK brand.

93-95 ej18 awd impreza wagon. otherwise second the 90-96 legacy. Do one for fuel economy and go FWD 5spd.