MilesFox

i have noticed that subarus tend to stall up the torque converters before actually engaging. maybe the valve body is acting slow, until it finally builds enough pressure. these are just ideas, i dont have much experience with autos other than changing them out, turning them into 5spds!

Brian i am going to challenge that by making a point. ok, if we had a turbo forum, and you say might as well have one for ea81 and ea82. But a lot of your ea81 is hitachi carbbed, as well as 3 years of ea82. the only exception would be SPFI. si carb and FI, no need to distinguish between, either carb or spfi, tbelts or pushrods. and parts will swap between, such as hitachis, or even spfi on ea81. But the turbo forum, however, would be a different beast, like dual ports, certain sensors and symptoms, specific to turbo models only. may as well have ea81t there too, being similar with its mpfi layout. maybe call it "Turbo Models Forum", if there were so, i dont think there would be confusion about "TURBO" vs ea82t for newcomers and seeing that a lot of posts are turbo specific, i dont think its entirely a bad idea. one more forum shouldnt hurt, keep the turbo forum within the old gen forums. if its something that is not necessary now, the idea should at least be considered should the board have to change its layout or whatever, due to growth or traffic, afterall, this board is going places, keep the road ahead paved.

i doubt it would have strupped the hub, because if it did, it would have started to act up miles ago, vibrating and pulling and all crazy junk i bet before your axle went, you would get a slight tug on the steering wheel that would oscillate in proportion to speed. as far as driving goes, it wont hurt anything if you must drive, as long as the harsh sound of clunking metal bits dont drive you nuts!! remember that you cant take the axle out unless you have a stub outer end or a new axle i took my axle out because the OUTER end busted, thus allowing me to remove the axle, but the spindle end is still there for the wheel. i got almost 3,000 miles and still going, donuting doesnt make the diff or driveshaft complain about torque.

the spfi also has a temp sendor for the ecu. you may want to check that out also dons spfi sedan sometimes wont start at all if its really cold, gets spark and fuel, no fire, even with ether but let it sit and come back the next day and its fine spfi can be screwy, somehow running into a stump and bending the suspension knocked out the fuel and spark, i dont get it

i bet it broke at the doj end. if so yo can get away with leaving it in, because you cant take out the axle if you dont have a stub outer or a new axle, to fox the wheel to! if it broke on the outer cv end, take it out right away. i drove around with a broken axle, till it popped out and tore up the caliper slide pin, brake line, and bent a tierod. just pop the axle pin out, turn the wheel althe way, and use a crowbar to pop it out of the outer end, remove axle the reason the noise went away in 4wd is the dead axle is turning at the same rate as the rear wheel(s). if you do a rwd burnout you will hear it chunking, because the rear wheels are spinning faster than the front as far as driving with no axle, i got at least 2500 miles on mine and still going. right now my only option for front axle replacement is the full xt6 suspension for the front, and the whole rear to fix a bent trailing arm. good thing i have tha parts already. just need to put them on!!

the mods will have to agree on this one.....

i like the idea. i suggested a justy thread, but there isnt much osts about justys. but the same idea with turbos makes sense to me. as the general forum has a LOT of ambient traffic

maybe the Subaru Alliance can make it. but if we can pull of a trashwagon rescue mission before then

Ok, time has come to plan a road trip. The road trip involves driving to idaho, and retreiving TRASHWAGON 5. to all be known i will be making the trip with a suspended license, and a WARRANT FOR MY ARREST in idaho. What? is this another "jack move"?? i am afraid not. this time around i know what NOT to do!! so far the current plan is to set out on March 19. the date is so because a film student in wisconsin has a hankerin to DOCUMENT the trip(this has been a background idea for tha last couple years....), so this would be a good opportunity for both of us So far we need to decide what car to take. The RX, or TRASHWAGON SIX. if the rx goes, we need to fix the wheel bearing. so far the motor is trustworthy with over 1000 miles since the carb block swap. we will bring spare timing belts if one breaks, a 20 minute fis off the side of the road, open belts If Trashwagon 6 goes, by then i will have an xt6 5 lug suspension, a full time 5spd trans. If the legacy axles will fit on the xt6 swap, i will install the best of the four, and take the other ones as spares. the rear axles are good, but so what if one goes if u got full time with diff lock. the only concern is my carburetor, it runs like dook, bad gas mileage, fouled plugs. if i can find a good carb, then its on. because i doubt i will have a turbo motor by then The trip out will run past chicago, around then north to wisconsin, then minnesota, so dakota, wyoming, montana. just before idaho, we will divert north to whitefish montana, and eithe sneak into bonners ferry idaho, or have my car meet us at the state line 30 miles away. all i know is if we get stopped in idaho for whatever reason, i will be going to jail for the time it takes to equal 375 bucks of court costs that have not been paid. it will be 2043 miles out. on he way back, we will be taking US route 2 thru montana, n dakota, minnesota, wisconsin the UP of michigan, and michigan itself to indiana. the ride back is 2037 miles we will ride out in one car, and back in 2. So far MYOSS FEECE will be the driver out. but we need another driver for the way back. so far the only option at this point is ZANNY DOOK, who cant drive stick, isnt hiway travel seasoned but has a license. if he drives back, one of us will have to ride with so he can navigate the higway system, and not get lost I will calculate fuel costs at 25 mpg, and 2.00 per gallon, for 1 and a half cars, for 4500 miles. that will give room for extra fuel for route deviations, and room for extra cash to be alloted for emergency. the total will be 540 bucks. but with that estimate, if gas averages 1.75, then thats 25 cents times 180=45 bucks for extra gas, good for another extra 1125 divided by 2 = 562 extra miles for each car on the way back. i figure mileage will average close to 30 mpg for the most part, so 5 x 180=another 900 miles, 450 miles for each car. but with all that extra slack, it should cover food and other costs with a comfortable margin. 25% of 600 bones will be 150 bucks, if we devote 25% to food, and 75% for gas. and 75 % of 600 is 450, should do it for fuel anyway. I will save up at least 400, if not more, in one month if i can stash away 100 bucks a week. if i can keep 35 hour average then that will give me at least 200 dollar checks, and i dont pay rent as of yet, but when i get my apartment, my rent will only be 25 bucks a week(payroll deduction). Myoss Feece will save up towards 200 bucks to put in. we each pay half of gas on the way out, and pay each our own cars ourselves back. i will cover extra costs as food or hotel if needed so the 19th is at least 4 weeks away. any extra money will go to insurance. What i will do is reinstate my insurance policy on my ride, and add tw5. i need to tenew my plate for tw5, to wear on the way home. if we take the rx instead, insurance will be cheaper for this trip, since the RX is already insured. Since i am going all thru these states, i am down for visiting if anyone is interested, emergency contacts and pit stops. and those of you who missed wcss5, now you can see a PAIR of trashwagons, my cars have never met yet. anyway, that is the plan. if we cant make the march 19 deadline, we may film locally, and then piggy back on the boss's proposed trip to seattle, much easier and less expensive, but not as bold of a maneuver. and i am going to bust a donut in CRAZYBOY's yard if he discloses his address, and if its on the way(check the alliance board)

turn on the heater and select the defrost. if all your selections still blow out of the dash vents, then this will confirm the loose vacuum line like caleb said.

john, i will be using 2wd legacy struts, i would like to see if the legacy axles will fit the xt6 hub. i wonder if the xt6 strut has the ea82 bearing on a legacy/impreza cap? i will consider using the legacy's if the holes dont have to be reamed too much, i would like it to have the ability to go back to stick parts if necessary(cause the parts will later go into tw5 when i get it back here before too long) CORKY, josh's 2wd impreza has a 25 spline, 5spd as far as doj swap, i kno there are 23 spline TURBO doj (3at turbo)that is the same diameter as the 25spline rx and 5spd doj. i am hoping that a 2wd legacy axle is the same diameter, i have a 25 spline doj to play with, but not a 23 also, a 2wd axle is skinnier than a turbo axle, but i have put a 25 spline turbo doj on a 2wd axle, some slop, but it worked till the other axle went out.

here is a small write up on lower control arms http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/lowercontrol.htm i have put ea82 lower controls in my 83. i weld an ea82 bracket to the ea81 frame. cause the ea82 AXLE is longer i tried it first in the ea81 brackets, but the axle rubbed the frame, and it allowed to extend enough to pop the boot off GD, my alignment was due to chopped tierods that were hastily built, and a wallowed out strut cap. all fixed now the ea82 has the swaybar mount on the front, ea81's swaybar mounts to the strut brace the ea81 ball joint holes are larger than the ea82's to use ea82 control arms in ea81, you will need ea82 inner and outer tie rods. i suggest using the ea82 strut/knuckle assembly with a *slightly* modded atrut cap(spring tools required), so that way you dont have to ream out the tie rod and ball joint holes, and you get bigger brakes, too with ea82 lower control arms, the wheels will be castered slightly forward, and camber slightly in, soo that will give you a better stance for cornering. the width of the track will be slightly wider, nothing that will interfere with the fender and wheels. i had 16 inch 205/55's with this while at it, the REAR TRAILING ARMS between both will mount the same, but the ea82 has a larger bolt on the front part, and is *slightly* wider. if using an ea82 trailing arm in an ea81, trim off some of the metal sleeve in the bushing, so it fits, and widen the holes on the ea81 brackets the 3 bolts on the side will line up, as well as the shocks

just remember that cracks between tha valves are normal, even if they go down to the valve guides. cracks to watch out for would be ones in the exhaust port webbing, or in the coolant passage like in the pics above the throttle body sits on a gasket, it has water passages. describe how the car is running, from cold to warm, or if it gets hot at all

Skip, i KNOW you know of trashwagon6, 87 turbo with a carb, but of course, it didnt come that way. it came with no motor!!! anyway we used gl10 sedan doors on a wagon, having to swap in crank windows into them. so now you have heard of both!!

procedure is the same, although the loyale has longer axles, bigger knuckle, its built the same. the only thing different is the swaybar read this, as it may help performing ed's procedure http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/lowercontrol.htm for the brake caliper and rotor removal http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/frontdisc.htm

on spfi models the green test clips will be under the hood, on the driver side firewall where the wiring harness comes out

the gasket you refer to is only on turbo motors. if you get the complete gasket set from NAPA, it will be included. the gasket and cover are part of the PCV system, where the pcv line goes into the top of the block here are some NAPA parts numbers, and soob parts guide genuine parts numbers NAPA genuine parts no. 85 up

i got all the parts for my conversion, and i am going to see if legacy axles will work. i also want to see if the xt6 caliper will boly up to the legacy knuckle, and to see if an ea82ball joint will fit in either the xt or the legacy knuckle my ultimate plan is to see if a 23 spline doj from a turbo axle will fit on a legacy 2wd axle, for use with a 23 spline tranny.

go to wal mart and pick up some generic athletes foot spray. i left my soob out in the rain one night with the sunroof open. the next day it had an ambient mildew smell brewing, but the foot spray quickly put an end to the smell till it dried out, it was a good preventative measure. but all in all its still not as bad as having a dog dook on 3 of the seats.....

my 83 2wd wagon had solid rotors, the 83 turbo had vented now as far as ea81 and ea82 spoked wheels, the main difference to tell from is: the spokes on an ea81 rim will meet the rim at close to a 90 drg angle, whereas the ea82 spokes will round out into the rim, basically the little "triangles" of space will have round corners on ea82, and sharper corners on ea81 if my analogies make sense....

the little capacitor is simply a noise coil for the radio as far as your mystery wires all YELLOW wires go to the NEGATIVE terminal all black wires will be the +. they should have red contacts, but not always.

we dont have inspectors here in indiana, so the challenge is to trick the license branch itself, such as renewing the same plate twice with no insurance, and the same plate rotating between several cars, whichever one is being driven. but whenever i go in for legitimate purposes, they usually think im up to something. so thus we get my name spelled wrong, and the wrong body designation when things are done right, their procedure. they piss me off "I said JF2!, now give me my MPV registration, its a 5w, not a 4s(body desig.)" f*'n pigs

brian, the one i will be doing will be pen, with crosshatch shading. suppose yp can CG color it, i can scan it as a greyscale and a line art, whichever one will do best for cg color. and keep a the greyscale copy for non colored version

if you are talking about a circlip, a big round one that takes up the inner circumfrence of the doj, simply slide the axle in all the way, and then the ring pops into a groove. if the ring pulled out, you may have to "expamd" it by pulling it wider, so it stays in if you are talking about the very end that goes onto the trans, the metal lipm that is just a dust cover, you can take it off or bend it out of the way.